Marin Indian Fire Trail restoration (maybe image heavy)

Hi all,

First off, please excuse me if I don't know all the names of the bike parts yet or maybe ask some daft questions!

I'm new on this site having just found a renewed passion for biking, so I was very pleased to have picked up a 1995 (so says my local bike shop) Marin Indian Fire Trail for £250 on eBay.

I used to have an IFT when they were quite new but have been off the scene for many years now. My original bike was the one with the purple graphics and forks but I don't exactly remember what year it was. 1993 maybe?

Anyway!

The IFT I picked up recently is still a fantastic ride and nice and lightweight, but it's been sitting around for a while and isn't quite how I'd like it, especially having seen some amazing restorations on this site.

It's got some Suntour SR shocks on it which my local bike shop says are on their last legs (they're pitted/scored horizontally to about 2cms above the bit of the shock that travels) and otherwise is standard from what I remember, running Deore XT bits and bobs. Oh, it also has a FSA head and an Easton EA30 cross-bar.

I first off want to get the aluminium back up to a good look (concourse if I could!) but need some advice. I've so far taken off one of the very manky condition IFT graphics - which I will replace later with vinyl if need be - and have started on bits of the frame with Autosol metal polish. It's certainly brightened up a bit, but is bloody hard work and still isn't producing what I'm after.

I guess:

Is there a better polish to use (Mother's Metal Polish for example)?

Is there somewhere that professionally does aluminium frame restorations to maximum effect? I'm in Surrey if it helps.

Regarding the above, should I get it media blasted or take to it with a compound machine?

Should I give up and throw it in a hedge?

Oops!

Okay, so that photo upload didn't quite go to plan. I'll try again after the weekend, if I survive SW4! In the meantime, my thanks in advance for any help!

Adam

The shocks

Hopefully a better picture of the shocks. The local bike shop say the shocks are on their way out due to the pitting. Any thoughts?

Check it for cracks - Will be doing the same with mine when it comes out the garage!

Unsure about polish as It has the laquer on top - may have to strip that back before getting down to the metal.

Let us know how you get on

The good news is, no cracks at all. I thankfully looked on here before I bought it, so you guys have given me one good bit of advice already!

Probably asking my first newbie question, but how do you get through the lacquer and then what do you do? I know a good car bodywork person if that would do me any favours?!

I will definitely keep you all up to date, and I hope I can eventually present a lovely retro job!

Dude i have one of the ones you had originally and it shines like a good un... What you need to do is brush some nitromors on it and leave it a few minutes and then scrape the gooey lacquer off, be careful it using a metal scraper to avoid deep scratches but the lacquer's not that thick so comes off easy. Then hit it with the Autosol to bring out the gleaming shine Perhaps give gil_m a message recarding new decals and the jobs done.

Rich

PopsTrippin":1aurm9tj said:

Dude i have one of the ones you had originally and it shines like a good un... What you need to do is brush some nitromors on it and leave it a few minutes and then scrape the gooey lacquer off, be careful it using a metal scraper to avoid deep scratches but the lacquer's not that thick so comes off easy. Then hit it with the Autosol to bring out the gleaming shine Perhaps give gil_m a message recarding new decals and the jobs done.

Rich

Click to expand...

Hi Rich,

Do I use Nitromors on the decals area to scrape the decal's lacquer off, or on the whole bike and scrape ultimately all the bikes lacquer off? If it's the latter, do I then need to get it re-lacquered?

I've so far very carefully removed the right hand side IFT logos with a Stanley blade. It's more shiny beneath where the decal was, but then I'd expect that as it's protected from the elements more.

The Autosol is "improving" it for sure, but the result is minor and slow.

I'll be facing the same issues as you if and when i get round to stripping the frame and polishing - You're mate at the >car< body-shop should be able to help with clear-coat when you are done polishing I should think.

If you want to go OE then you could message Hurin76 on here as he should still have the original 95 (i think) rigid forks for sale however you'd need to check axle-to-crown measurements to ensure you get the correct size forks for your frame.

I should be able to help you with the Dia-Compe aheadset fitted to the 96' model with the canti-hanger, as i have a few in the spares box; should you want to find and run Marin Lite cantilevers instead of V brakes, clearly they aren't as powerful or as safe 'tho

If you are taking the time to take this back to it's factory and concours condition then that's worth consideration as you will no doubt not be rallying this at high speeds when done, they do look good if you can find a clean set.

Oh and If you remove the head-badge and it breaks - find a new one or two and give me a shout as i'll be needing one!! as the '95 badge is a looker when compared to the '96 incarnation.

I used Nitromors to remove all the lacquer, it was a labour of love and besides i did it during work time I personally didn't relacquer because it's not too much of a chore to keep shiny but i read on a thread the other day that some guys use some sort of wax or alloy wheel protection spray?

This guy had some '95 Headtube badges, might be worth a message,

http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewto ... ight=marin

Rich