Help identifying a frame

Looking back on my late night post (last night), the reason why Carlton sprung to mind was the rear seat cluster. It's not wrap round as the seat stays are not joined and this reminded me of the Carlton Flyer. Carlton did build bespoke and frames to be built up into full bikes and not just mass produced stuff.

This was an unusual seat stay design as the 1960's went into the 1970's ....... full wraparound or brazed to the side were common as were shot in and the then starting to become fashionable fastback.

I Raced a 1970's Woodrup and it had fastback stays and a fully sloping fork crown, your crown is quite traditional...strangely the rear brake stay is not round.. By then the mudguard eyes were usually ground off.

Whatever it is, it never left a factory and was built properly and well worth the 60 quid and some more investigation

Shaun

I'd hate to get your hopes up, but the pencil seat stays, lugwork and top caps look very similar to a Jensen.....you would have to do more checking on serial numbers etc, as there were a lot of bikes with those features obviously.....the fork crown on jensons were normally cinelli style sloping though, I think....

Have a look here

http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/bu ... lders.html

It looks worthy of spending a bit on though.....nice score!

I´ll try and put some pics up of my Woodrup so you can see what you think. Serial number from your bike would help - if you´re going to get it fixed you might as well scrape some paint....

Tube repair plus respray is going to be as much as the frame´s worth even if it´s a Woodrup, so not a decision to make on cash grounds I think. Either that or I´ve been finding a lot of cheap bikes recently.

Thanks for all the feedback. It would be really great to get a definitive answer... Either way, it's a keeper as it rides so well, even with pretty bog basic kit.

Even as a winter hack, if it turns out to be nowt special!

Will go and scrape some more as well... I've done under the BB shell and there is a number (four digits) but even with the paint gone it is illegible...

I'll have a poke round the headtube and maybe rear dropouts...

ringo":1iw91lox said:

...I've done under the BB shell and there is a number (four digits) but even with the paint gone it is illegible...

Click to expand...

Try taking a "brass rubbing" or a cast (plasticine even): the detail will stand out in relief and you may be able to use the cast to make a print.

Jensen had numbers under the bottom bracket, first 2 denote the year.
I probably sold about 100 of them from 1959 to 1965.

The other thing that´s sometimes worked for me is to take a pic of the number. Don´t know why, but sometimes illegible numbers stand out in photo in a way they don´t in real life.

In addition, even information on where the ID is placed, its size, number of characters, format etc could help someone recognise the maker - you don´t necessarily need the number/letters themselves.

Good idea on the serial number, will take pic and post up soon...

In terms of age, the frame has welded brackets for the shifters... does this help with dates... I'd have thought pre seventies frames would have had banded shifters...

Here is a picture of the frame number... Is it 130? Looks hand done - not particularly well!