Show us yer FSR's

bigmick":2yxw6hjh said:

is the sharkfin home made too, my headset covers were free from mbuk mag about 15 years ago, the rear shock boots are a must for these bikes given the location of the shock

any chance of a guide template for the ghetto guard

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As much as i'd like to have re-made or made my own version of the sharkfin, i eventually struck lucky and managed to find one, looks different as is minus the anodising dye, but my cleaner mix a bit off

Ghetto guard, this bit?



I can do you a pattern, made mine from a thin flexible plastic called Darvic and punched it out on a CNC machine, has the two creases done on a press brake to take out a bit of the flex, then bent up to suit. Not the prettiest but really works for keeping the shock clean.

i guess sheet aluminium would work yes? a pattern would be nice, i'm sure i could knock something similar up in my dads garage

Went out for a 40miler today to check out a new spot that is earmarked to have some funding spent on it and maybe become a new trail center.

Some pics of the Elite Max while i was out







Unfortuantly a niggly noise on the way back turned into something more serious when the freehub and rear wheel hub bearlings went south 10 mile from home, i bodged it together, although it was hard as hell to turn the wheel and whenever i stopped pedalling the freehub kept turning so the chain would fly off

I nursed it the final 10 mile home, it felt like i was pedaling uphill all the way, and i could not freewheel at all :roll:

Not a fault of the bike, thats Halfords warrently/replacement freehub failing after 8 months (the wheels came from my Boardman)

I have 2 spare hubs in the man-cave, will sort it all out tomorrow. Food and cider time now

My old Boxxer Pros were cracked. Luckily I knew someone that's been holding onto a brand new pair of Boxxer lowers that fit the bill with minor changes. Looks freakin' awesome! Going to a little light trial riding tommorow and then 17 miles of down hill riding next weekend at Downieville!
Hobbes didn't really like that I was using his scratch post to prop my ride up.

Is anyone else experiencing ghost shifting with his FSR? I am trying to find out the cause for this and have lots of trouble...

It starts with 4th and 5th gear and goes to 2nd till 7th after 1-2 hours of riding. When I readjust the RD, everything is fine for some kilometers...

Changes already made with no improvement:
- new cable twice
- new chain
- trying a chain guide



RD looks okay, maybe a bit twisted due to a crash but hard to say.
Sprockets don't look THAT used to cause this many problems..


Maybe someone had the same problems and can give me a hint?

explain ghost shifting please!

twain":23cv13rg said:

explain ghost shifting please!

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gears changing with no rider input

Yes!

I got this on my 98 FSR and i also get it on my Elite.

I was hoping the problem was because of sloppy bushes in the 98, so when i built the 99 elite and it came with much tighter bushes, i figured it would be fine.

Mine only does this if i stand up out of the saddle and pump the pedals (ie compress the suspension/make it bob loads)

It tends to try and jump a gear at the rear, only on the smaller rear cogs though, i initially thought this was because of a worn cassette on the 98 bike, so i replaced it, and i replaced the chain, then i worked out my rear dropouts were worn, so i converetd to a 10mm bolt on axle, and it still ghost shifted/jumped, at this point i figured it was just a sloppy bush somewhere and when i built my 99 Elite it would be "fixed"

Never got around too working out why it does this yet, i was planning on looking at it further the next time i change my gear cables, i have wondered if its because of my cable routing around the rear linkage.

I did change my jockey wheels a long time ago for some cheap new ones and the top wheel does not have any side to side float, so i have also wandered if this could be a problem.

I used the same drivetrain on both bikes, with the same cable routing, although i fitted new cables.

i use a one piece outer from front triangle to rear mech seems to make a difference

had issues with rear cable disc brakes too so changed to hydraulic

- could be the cable tension changing due to the rear pivot movement.
- check your cassette is done up properly (i had a ghost shifting problem when i went out on my first RB ride only to discover i hadn't installed my cassette tightly enough!
- are your jockey wheels on your rear mech installed right way round (not sure if this is the case on newer mechs) but there should be more play in the top jockey wheel than the bottom i think (i could have this the wrong way round though!)
-check the swing of the rear mech is smooth/not stiff (grab the rear mech by the main body (tension spring housing) and pull to the front of the bike) then let go, if it doesn't return/move, it'll need loosening up - this recently cleared an issue up with my M739 rear mech which was becoming difficult with its gears/skipping etc... do this with the chain off though. you can also check the alignment of the jockey wheels and the cassette through the gears more easily as an added check. my chain may be a little short by one link i think.


not sure what else it could be?