1 inch threaded to threadless?
- Thread starter Way2many
- Start date
Depends what you mean, if you mean to convert a bike frame (and headset) then nothing needs doing, just replace the headset. If you have enough steerer on the forks you can even re-use them.
If you are talking about forks then just use them as is, the threaded part will be covered by the stem/spacers.
HTH
If you are talking about forks then just use them as is, the threaded part will be covered by the stem/spacers.
HTH
Dave Yates charges £75 to rework the steerer for A head:
http://www.daveyatescycles.co.uk/custom ... ces-52.php
Dont' know if that is a whole new steerer or wether he internally sleeves and whaks on a new length of steerer...
http://www.daveyatescycles.co.uk/custom ... ces-52.php
Dont' know if that is a whole new steerer or wether he internally sleeves and whaks on a new length of steerer...
You can buy 1" threadless forks. Seen all sorts.
It was suggested to me that a threaded fork used with a threadless type stem might be weak. On the threaded version the thread is strengthened by the headset and none is exposed. Its very short as well. To use it threadless you would need a longer fork column of course with more leverage at the point where the fork leaves the headset. I have run a 1" threaded fork with a 1 1/8th stem and a shim that comes with those nasty adaptors between them. It was alloy and did take on the thread and you could argue supported the threaded area more as it filled the grooves.
As you need a new fork to run threadless anyway just get a 1" threadless
It was suggested to me that a threaded fork used with a threadless type stem might be weak. On the threaded version the thread is strengthened by the headset and none is exposed. Its very short as well. To use it threadless you would need a longer fork column of course with more leverage at the point where the fork leaves the headset. I have run a 1" threaded fork with a 1 1/8th stem and a shim that comes with those nasty adaptors between them. It was alloy and did take on the thread and you could argue supported the threaded area more as it filled the grooves.
As you need a new fork to run threadless anyway just get a 1" threadless
.
Thanks guys...it will be a threaded steerer conversion to keep the original forks.
Will have to discuss it with Brian Rourke when the frame turns up...would like it to remain all steel rather than drop in a set of carbons.
I bought this...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/280898553863? ... 1439.l2649
Whoops...
Thanks guys...it will be a threaded steerer conversion to keep the original forks.
Will have to discuss it with Brian Rourke when the frame turns up...would like it to remain all steel rather than drop in a set of carbons.
I bought this...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/280898553863? ... 1439.l2649
Whoops...
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Tuckerjenkins
Senior Retro Guru
Re: .
NICE! i nearly hit the buy now on that but realised the top tube was too long. ARSE!
look forward to seeing it built up.
I'm with you on the threadless option - seeing how cheap the frame was it may be worth getting them converted (but then you have to get the forks repainted too so add on another 40 odd quid...)
just had another look - the chrome will probably get damaged when the steerer is replaced so re chroming may cost a fair bit more :shock:
Way2many":30a1z9s3 said:
NICE! i nearly hit the buy now on that but realised the top tube was too long. ARSE!
look forward to seeing it built up.
I'm with you on the threadless option - seeing how cheap the frame was it may be worth getting them converted (but then you have to get the forks repainted too so add on another 40 odd quid...)
just had another look - the chrome will probably get damaged when the steerer is replaced so re chroming may cost a fair bit more :shock:
When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
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