1993 Kona "HOT" 650B conversion

Do you have a pic of the clearance at the back?

I squeezed a 29er wheel running a 35mm tyre with clearance into my 99 Caldera but struggle with a 2.0 26'' wheel :?

IMGP1744.jpg
 
I will post picks later.

It rides fine and does not feel much different then when I have 26" wheels on.
The biggest problem I have is the clearance with the brakes and braking power.
I just picked up a 26" Chris king Wheelset that I think I will use instead on it as it just feels right for that frame.
If I did not have my new 29er on the way I would keep the 650b's on there.
 
GearlessinSeattle":mhbeyrwe said:
The biggest problem I have is the clearance with the brakes and braking power.
Click to expand...
I was going to ask you about brake power with the pads so far from the pivot. If you could get the bosses moved, it would make a nice 650b bike. I would be a bit concerned about weakening the tubes with repeated heating, although I guess if they're only brazed it's nothing like as bad as repeated welding?
 
Breaking power is not bad, but with the pads as high up on the brake arms it does not give you as much modulation.
Still not sure what to do.
I can get the brake studs moved for $100 and the whole thing painted for $150. That would mean I would have $300 into the frame and fork so not bad for a Teesdale built 650B frame set.:)
 
Nice and clean. You should lose the front canti hanger and replace the problem-solver with a kona-style seat tube cable stop though.
 
thecannibal":79p3wo90 said:
Nice and clean. You should lose the front canti hanger and replace the problem-solver with a kona-style seat tube cable stop though.
Click to expand...
I have 2 Kona Dog Collars but both are made for Canti's not V's.
The front canti hanger is gone already. Realized it was still on after I took the photos. :oops:
 
GearlessinSeattle":3vkq624c said:
thecannibal":3vkq624c said:
Nice and clean. You should lose the front canti hanger and replace the problem-solver with a kona-style seat tube cable stop though.
Click to expand...
I have 2 Kona Dog Collars but both are made for Canti's not V's.
Click to expand...
The dog collar will work as a cable stop for V-brakes with a large-size frame. It is still better if you can get hold of some Nokon outer cable, but standard outer is flexible enough not to overpower the brake's drive-side tension spring provided you have a long enough run - which with the small sizes, you do not have, so for them Nokon is essential.
 
The 2 problems I had:
1.Yes, the cable length from stop to top of Paul router was too short so had the torquing problem
2.The rear hole on both Dog collars is too small for the cable housing so it would not set up properly
 
OK, the size 19 is slightly more marginal than the 20. If you used Nokon, you would have no problem though. Please excuse my polluting your hot thread with an image of my humble scrapheap rescue, but I think it does show that Nokon is so flexible that this arrangement works perfectly, even on such a short run as on the size 16.

I have heard people say they have drilled the dog collar a couple of mm so that the ferrule fits inside, but I haven't bothered and it works so I don't think it necessary. I've heard other people suggest using a plastic ferrule as the dog collar is soft alloy and a metal ferrule will wear it away after n years, but I haven't and I don't see any sign of wear atm.
 

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  • 1994 Kona Explosif size 16 rear brake cable route w Nokon.jpg
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