Well,ive finally got a full suspension frame though im a long way yet from getting it to riding condition
I think you'll all agree that the seller is a twat of the highest order for sending it parcelfarce 48 in bubblewrap only,no box and it was 20 quid for that privilege [and had the audacity to claim it cost MORE than 20 to send]
Ive given it a good going over and can see no damage so i think we've got away with it
Overall i think ive done quite well in that the condition of the tubing is really not bad at all There are a number of scratches and scrapes of course but there is none of the heavy pitting around the wheel areas,behind the seat tube and under the bottom bracket area etc so that i think shows its had quite an easy life.
I just given it a going over with a cloth and autosol but TBH it was pretty shiny for the most part so it took less than an hour.

Im just waiting to hear about what pressure to run the shock at because at the moment its empty of air[still got its fluid]and id like to pump it up to see if it holds air ok or whether it needs to go for a service.
Once ive sorted out if the shock works or not ill strip the frame apart and clean the oxide off the pivot fittings/bar etc maybe give the back triangle a T-cutting and get the autosol into the nooks and crannies not visible with the rear triangle in place.

Build-
As you can see ive already fitted a hope disc mount,this is for a pair of red bulbs at the mo laced to a red 517 on the front and a nos citron 317 on the rear,im intending to swop the rear rim to a matching red 517
Just have to find one first
I was thinking a 1x8 set up with my AC cranks and a single ring with an m739 mech.Brakes are to be C2's on pro levers front and rear,kore stem,clubroost risers.Other bits still to be bought
Forks-
Im waiting for a set of marzocchi Jr T's to arrive this week but its a triple and this is an XC not a DH FR so i'm hoping to swop them for something more appropriate like a Z1 or long travel judy,prefer a z1 but we'll see whats available for swopping

I'll leave it at that for now and add as i decide how things will go

Oh yeah -The frame number is 977000059
I think that could mean july'97 though the seller stated in the poo discription it was a '98, so maybe its last seasons reduced stock or something .
Anyone make light of what the numbers mean ?
I hope its only frame build no59 that would be cool

That is a bit shabby to send it just bubble wrapped, but I'm glad it's survived unscathed.
You must really like it though, non of my bikes are allowed on the sofa.

My Mother visited once and asked what the marks on the living room carpet were.
Oh those,thats hydraulic fluid mum
well its nice to bleed your brakes infront of the telly and fire


There are people on here forced to go outside

I think I run my shock at about 160psi, but can't remember off hand.

It may be frame 59 of 1997, my frame is something like 366 in 1996.

I've pumped air in at 160 and it still feels very squishy,i think a service is needed.
Ive done a mock up using the wrong forks which are sitting too far out due to no headset and the rear rim is being replaced.

Now dont be sick

Looks ok really!

It is nice to work indoors, I tend to go out when i'm riding though.

So what is the travel on these then? Cant remember them too well, only the heckler, which I love.

My memory isnt great though!

Oh, and that is crap packaging. I thought some of my recent arrivals were poorly done!

Forgot to say, mine is at 160 and I weigh just over 11 stone, but i've used that pressure for years and its a bit low now the middle aged spread has started! Recommended pressure is 20psi over your weight in pounds.

Link below is to a useful post/thread on MTBR:
http://forums.mtbr.com/2295533-post28.html

Being doubly thick here, whats the rocker part of the frame that seems to attach to the body of the shock, what is that there for?

Thank you ever so much for that link ive been looking for that info for the last few days,not easy to find so ive copy and pasted it here in case we lose that info for whatever reason

Jr T's are listed at 130mm[5"] possibly too much but im beginning to think its going to be ok albeit a tad chunky looking

From what i can gather its the stabilize the shock more than your usual single pivot,at least thats more or less what the company blurp was saying
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I've been in contact with Santa Cruz regarding the Tazmon and they have provided me with a number of useful specifications and details on the frame, so i figured i would post up what they provided me with (along with other useful data i've collected over time). I hope others find it of use. See below. BTW if anyone has other useful data on the Tazmon thats not included below please PM me and i will add it in (i'm looking at you Logbiter.
__________________________________________________ ________________________

[SIZE="4"]SANTA CRUZ TAZMON Frame Specifications[/SIZE]

The Tazmon was manufactured by Santa Cruz Bicycles from 1994 to 1998, their first mass produced MTB frame. Discontinued in 1998 due to its high manufacturing costs.

Frame Travel: 3" / 70mm

Sizes: 16", 18", 20", 22"

Colours:
Paint: black, lime green, metallic green, orange, polished, red, Sid blue, Transparent Blue, Transparent Red, white, yellow.
Other: Clear powder coat,metallic blue powder coat,clear green powder coat,metallic green powder coat, clear blue powder coat, polished.

Weight: Unsure of frame weight. Complete bikes range from around 24lbs/10.9kgs (hi spec) to 27lbs/12.2kgs (mid to low spec).

Frame material: 6061 T6 aluminum, double-butted, TIG-welded.

Component Specs:
Seatpost - 26.8mm (If it is a late 1998 model it could also be a 27.2mm post. You should measure it to be 100% sure)
Front derailleur - 1995-96 model - 31.8mm Traditional Top Pull, 1997-98 model - 31.8mm Top Pull/Top Swing
Headset - 1-1/8 inch
BB spec - 68mm shell, 47.5mm to 50mm chainline spec, 107mm spindle.

Bolt Torque Settings:
1 - Front Shock Mount (To Frame) - 40 inch lbs.
2 - Brake Plate Bolts - 20 inch lbs.
3 - Rear Shock mount (To S/A) - **60 inch lbs (**Make sure the e-link can move freely)
4 - Main Pivot Nuts - 80 inch lbs
5 - Main Pivot Bearing Pinch Bolts - 40 inch lbs

Bearings:
Lower swingarm bearings were same as 96-99 Heckler ("big bearing") - 1.125 OD x .375 ID.
Upper swingarm bearings (At shock eyelet/e-link) are - 10mm OD x 6mm ID.

Brake Compatibility:
Santa Cruz never made a swingarm with disc mounts for the Tazmon, so only V/cati style brakes are compatible. If you do want to run disc brakes, you will need to go with one of the aftermarket "Universal Mount" options, made by Brake Therapy, Specialized, etc...

Rear shock info:
The only rear shock option for the Tazmon is the Risse Air (3 variants available – the Genesis, Astro-5 & Terminator), which was custom manufactured for the Tazmon’s 3 point shock mounting system with eccentric link (e-link) at swingarm eyelet. For product info visit http://www.risseracing.com/santacruz.shtml.

For rear shock air pressure the rule of thumb is approx 20lbs (psi) over rider weight. For Tazmon rear shock rebuild, and replacement options, contact the manufacturer at www.RisseRacing.com.

Shock installation instructions (courtesy of Risse Racing):

1. Put the damper on like it looked when you first got the bike, but keep all of the bolts loose for now. The eyelet (with the air valve) goes to the rear, the clamp on the body goes in the middle with the cable guide hole to the rider's left. With all the bolts on loose, continue to step 2.

2. Sit on the bike to set the bolts in their natural position. This is important because a bolt tightened out of place can inhibit the damper's performance.

2. Sit on the seat or lean on it with your chest when you tighten the back bolt and the front bolts. They need that weight to hold them in the proper spot when you tighten the front bolts on the body.

3. The rear bolt bolts through the E-link, which must be able to rotate slightly as the damper compresses. The bolt should not be too tight.

4. When you tighten the middle bolt, just make it a gentle hand tight. It should be able to slip a little if it needs too. Don't worry: the middle and rear bolts don’t have to be really tight to do their job.

Extra info/spec's (like geo) may be found here: http://airfreetires.com/Specs/Step2....and=Santa+Cruz

Might see how the modern x9/xo stuff sits. Keep the costs down but wont make for a very period build
Swopped the wheels over which looks a bit better,a bit more together but makes the seat tube look a bit of a crazy angle the manitou i have is 4",it might suit better but i need advice on this.
But much to do and much to play with looking forward to this project,its been a while since ive had something interesting.

I like the jr.t on there. But in the end it will come down to what you use it for...

Sorry, dyna - my question on travel wasnt on forks but frame. Which is now answered anyway

I'd put some single crown bombers on.

Really nice frame, good condition too. Seeing one of these in the flesh in 96 in Calgary planted the seed for Santa Cruz with me.
A test ride back home on a Heckler, with an extra 1" travel and the shop owners' personal ride, sealed my order for a Heckler in 1997.

FWIW This frame was designed for 80mm? suspension, I think it looks all wrong with the 5" forks and the very slack seating angle.
The Tazmon is a 3" travel XC racing machine, here's the 1997 catalogue scans for some inspiration maybe? Sooo nice





Enjoy!!