I rode a full suspension bike today...

Russell

Old School Grand Master
... for the first time.


A very modern 160mm travel thing.

Oh my God.

So smooth,

So fast.




I want.
 
turncoat!! :evil:

but in the right conditions modern can be very useful, here in the new forest i could ride rigid and canti all the time with no issues, but in wales for example i don't think i'd ride anything rigid and good brakes would be a must, minimum v brakes.

:)
 
jonnyboy666":44ass5x4 said:
here in the new forest i could ride rigid and canti all the time with no issues, .

I suspect you could ride for longer and probably faster on a full suspension, even with the added weight penalty. you will loose out climbing but the rest your on a winner.
 
Russell":3c7aazjc said:
... for the first time.


A very modern 160mm travel thing.

Oh my God.

So smooth,

So fast.




I want.

Im still a full sus virgin :oops:


:mrgreen:
 
02gf74":288oklb3 said:
I suspect you could ride for longer and probably faster on a full suspension, even with the added weight penalty. you will loose out climbing but the rest your on a winner.
Weight is not always a penalty with a full suspension bike

My Cube Sting weighs 11.5kg, or 25.3lbs in old money

Not that heavy for a 120mm, or 4.7" travel full suspension bike

On my last ride round Welton I managed to climb higher than all the other riders on retro hardtails on one particular steep section!

Full suspension bikes usually dig in at the rear when climbing giving added traction so quite often they will climb better than a hardtail on certain types of terrain, if the climb is smooth and not in any way technical the hardtail will be faster up the hill

Yes, Full Suspension bikes can be faster on certain types of terrain and they can help you ride longer, but a bike is only as good as the rider on it ;)
 
02gf74":nf6ovmjv said:
jonnyboy666":nf6ovmjv said:
here in the new forest i could ride rigid and canti all the time with no issues, .

I suspect you could ride for longer and probably faster on a full suspension, even with the added weight penalty. you will loose out climbing but the rest your on a winner.

disagree, come ride here, you'll see what i mean! there is pretty much nothing to brake for and having done my training route of 23 miles around the new forest on almost all my 15 or so mountain bikes the fastest has been on my vitamin t2 (completely rigid)

my modern st4 is awesome but not around here, although i do agree with andy regarding climbing, my st4 grips on climbs fantastically, i first noticed how grippy it was on the start of the whytes level/skyline trail at afan, that climb goes on for quite a while but it copes so easily with it as opposed to the rear wheel slipping on loose stuff like a hardtail can.
 
I used to ride a fair bit in the NF. Have to go with Johnny on his assessment.

As far as the 'no weight penalty' for full suss, well LIKE FOR LIKE there will always be a weight 'penalty' for a full susser.

Given all else being equal, a 25lbs full susser could always be made at least a few pounds lighter as a rigid.

Just saying.

For certain routes, spending the extra £1000 to make your 25lbs full susser a 21lbs full susser would be less fruitful than spending that money making your 21lbs rigid a 16lbs rigid. It is all down to the terrain.

My preference would be for a lightweight xc with lockouts.
 
Never ridden one as I've never had the chance.

Scared I'd like it I suppose as I'd only end up spending money I don't have.

Ditto for discs.
 
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