hmm .. 1 reason why cantilever+v-brakes are better than disc

legrandefromage":imu0qo51 said:

During my all to brief stint in 'the industry', hydraulic disc brakes were the most frequent issue with customers. When the warm weather hit in March, we had loads of bikes with expanded fluid and jammed on calipers.

Leaky seals were an issue, expanding pistons and the most common: oil saturated pads where the customer allowed spray lube to contaminate them.

New bikes went out perfect, customer puts bike in car, bangs disc, customer comes back a few days later complaining if rubbing or squeaky brakes because they've bent the disc or not refitted the wheel properly.

I could go on.

I am happy with my own brakes whatever they may be as they are set up properly, unfortunately not many can be bothered to do that.

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fine if you've go the money to throw at them but a £2.99 cable usually sorts a duff set of canti/ v-brakes for us spend thrifts.

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... myth that the luddites like to put about to justify not spending money

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hydorah":11g0vitt said:

I wouldn't take it too far it's different opinions

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legrandefromage":3fygwy49 said:

for 5 minutes until something leaks on it or the seals go or the pistons seize or you find you cant get the pads anymore or you nick the hose and lose your brakes out on the trail.

fine if you've go the money to throw at them but a £2.99 cable usually sorts a duff set of canti/ v-brakes for us spend thrifts.

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hydorah":2e2k4ymz said:

dyna-ti":2e2k4ymz said:

I really hate setting up canti's :x 10mm spanner plus an allen key to hold it straight.Tighten up only to find its moved :evil:
A nightmare :shock:

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Nooooo! Don't do that fit your cantis with no pads in them and get the angles all nice and symetrical and the slot for the pads standing roughly vertical

Pull your levers a good few times so you can see the arms move toward the rim roughly the same rate and that the system moves back to a good symetrical state with the slots vertical again

fart about with the dinky allen screw that acts on the little cam to get the spring balance right...

Then: Dial up about half the adjustment on your levers, then fit the pads and mounting hardware get it finger tight

Using your favourite finger push the front of the pad against the rim, making sure the pad is on the braking track of the rim all along it's length (don't use pads that someone has let get worn cock eyed, I have been known to dress XT pads with a file to rescue them)

then with your other set of finger get your ten mm spanner and secure the pad

Wind off some of you adjustment to acheive the desired clearance and that is it. beautiful superb canti performance is achieved

Pressing the forwards/front area of the pad also sets toe-in, rotation of the wheel will drag the pad when it acts on the rim. If you fit them entirely square the rear of the pad will work harder than the front... another toe-in method is to pop a bit of card (rizla packet thiscness) between the rear of the pad and the rim, no need just press the front of the pad

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Baulz":w5tiwxey said:

I bought some used Hope Minis 5 years ago and never had a problem

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Russell":2wucf65m said:

Baulz":2wucf65m said:

I bought some used Hope Minis 5 years ago and never had a problem

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You're in Ontario, where the temperature has been know to vary by 60 degrees from Winter to Summer, and you're telling me that your disc brakes worked all year round?

I don't believe it!

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