da FUNK phenomenon
- Thread starter RockiMtn
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thanks for that! would appreciate seeing how yours is set up. did some searching on FUNK here but didn't get as far back as your thread. lovely bit of history you have on yours.lou74":w2ircmxr said:
anyone know of where i could get suitable screw on cable stops for the rear seat stay??? may have to resort to those unsightly double side tape/zip tie jobbies. :?
seems to be a pulley in the rear centre of the seat tube though. :?Lid":w2ircmxr said:
peguinpower":w2ircmxr said:
finally someone acknowledges the reference in my thread title! 
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That looks like its been used as a jump bike with that bar setup.
I hope it isnt cracked BUT if it isn't then you'll know you've got a good'un if its stood up to some DJ abuse!!
I hope it isnt cracked BUT if it isn't then you'll know you've got a good'un if its stood up to some DJ abuse!!
a jump bike just cuz it has a rizer and oury grips? think your mention of "cracked" might have jinxed me a little.
went to strip off all parts so that i can strip off the paint. the bb was a little tough to get going but was fine afterwards. the un72 bb still had a $55 price tag stuck to it.
next moved onto the stem, no issues there. fork popped off and proceeded to the HS. lower cup came out by hand. "that's not too good" i thought. top needed the normal and expected tap out to remove.
last think was to take off the race off the fork. now having seen/heard that XTR race being somewhat fragile, i was a little hesitant about doing it, but i thought it had to be done so i can strip the fork properly and repaint if necessary. went with a VERY light and gentle tap to get a feeler, and to my dismay… the race split in and half and fell off the fork immediately. this tap was as light as tapping my finger onto table!!! :shock: i was so surprised that all i could do was chuckle and mumble to myself "you got to be kidding me". so anyone have a spare XTR M902 1-1/4" race??? or a complete headset, doesn't have to be XTR?
anyway, frame and fork are now ready to be paint stripped. located the serial number in the drop out as well.
think your mention of "cracked" might have jinxed me a little. went to strip off all parts so that i can strip off the paint. the bb was a little tough to get going but was fine afterwards. the un72 bb still had a $55 price tag stuck to it.
next moved onto the stem, no issues there. fork popped off and proceeded to the HS. lower cup came out by hand. "that's not too good" i thought.
top needed the normal and expected tap out to remove.last think was to take off the race off the fork. now having seen/heard that XTR race being somewhat fragile, i was a little hesitant about doing it, but i thought it had to be done so i can strip the fork properly and repaint if necessary. went with a VERY light and gentle tap to get a feeler, and to my dismay… the race split in and half and fell off the fork immediately. this tap was as light as tapping my finger onto table!!! :shock: i was so surprised that all i could do was chuckle and mumble to myself "you got to be kidding me".
so anyone have a spare XTR M902 1-1/4" race??? or a complete headset, doesn't have to be XTR? anyway, frame and fork are now ready to be paint stripped. located the serial number in the drop out as well.
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RockiMtn":3zeqs50k said:
the front derailleur set up is the same/similar to that used by Yeti at the same point in time. Searching for a Yeti set up should yield a photo or two.
Screw in cable stops can be made out of a hex head bolt without too much effort. Start by lining up the guide holes with the bolt in the frame (use a thin washer between the two). Drill a hole through the head (off the frame) and then machine the head round. Alternatively you can just drill a hole in an Aluminium allen bolt as a quick fix.
looks like the frame i have should be set up with a pulley attached to the BB. This makes it even more confusing on how the front mech should be set up. :?
http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=152565
http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=152565
Looks like it's missing another cable stop on the back of the seat tube, like this one has:
...which would mean that the front mech is a bottom-pull, so the cable runs from the cable stop down, round the pulley and back up to the front mech, Orange Clockwork -style.
: P
...which would mean that the front mech is a bottom-pull, so the cable runs from the cable stop down, round the pulley and back up to the front mech, Orange Clockwork -style.
: P
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