srands
Retro Guru
How to TRUE WHEELS on BIKE with DISK BRAKES... (For those who already know how to TRUE wheels, and the MTB still has BRAKE BOSSES on FRAME/FORK)
Parts needed:
~ V brakes (With springs taken out, as don't need tension for brake lever return)
~ V brake bolts (If brake boss stud taken out, then ->
~ 8MM bolts & nuts
~ Spoke key
~ Then turn your MTB upside down,
~ Bolt the V's (With no springs or cables!), adjust the pads, then TRUE your wheels, SIMPLE!
:shock: When you're done Truing, DO NOT forget to take off the old V's!
Since most people enjoy DISK BRAKES, the only real issue is to true your wheels you really need a WHEEL TRUING JIG, but these aren't cheap at £50 TO £200:
Or you could true your wheels in a FRAME/FORK that does have cantilever V brakes. This should go without saying but here goes:
~ You can't put a FRONT WHEEL in a MTB FRAME
~ You can't put a REAR WHEEL in a FORK
Also if your FRAME/FORK doesn't have any brake boss stud holes, then this conversation topic is a waste of your time, truing use a wheel jig or true your wheels in frame/fork with cantilever V's.
IF YOU DON'T HAVE A MTB WITH DISK BRAKES and after reading the above you're put off BUYING A MTB WITH DISK BRAKES or UPGRADING YOUR MTB TO DISK BRAKES. DON'T BE PUT OFF, As along as you can realistically afford DISK BRAKES (& DISK READY HUBS, FORK/FRAME WITH DISK CALIPER MOUNTS, & SEPERATE GEAR SHIFTERS), they are definitely better brakes (SEE TESTED DISK BRAKES FURTHER BELOW, TITLE: HYDRAULIC BRAKES rolling road testing!):
PROs (advantages) of DISK BRAKES:
~ If tyre/rim gets wet, disk brake performance unaffected.
~ If rim gets buckled disk brake performance unaffected (Hence no unexpected brake/tyre rub, hence less unexpected tyre explosions!)
~ Less brake fade from speed.
~ Less friction/flex then previous historic brakes (No brakes bosses used hence much less flex).
~ Pad life long.
~ Tyre width not limited by brakes (Such as centre pull, side pull or cantilever, as cable or brake housing may rub on larger width tyres).
CONs (disadvantages) of DISK BRAKES:
~ To fit MTB must have disk mounts on FRAME, FORK, BOTH HUBS, and if you have COMBO gear & brake levers then you would have to buy separate GEAR SHIFTERS as well, but only IF you're changing to HYDRAULIC as the lever style in different on HYDRAULIC DISK BRAKES, but the same on CABLE PULL DISK BRAKES (So if upgrading to CABLE DISK BRAKES, you can keep your existing BRAKE LEVERS even if combination style).
~ Pad replacement can be fiddly.
~ Setup/adjustment may not be obvious without consulting instructions first.
~ Setup/adjustment even with instructions may be fiddly, and may need some tools (Specialist or not), such as funnel for brake fluid top up (DOT5, etc), socket/spanner for bleed valve, rubber tube (Of correct diameter to be tight fit on bleed valve) and jar to siphon brake fluid during bleeding process to eradicate air bubbles until all are gone (No longer visible).
~ If brake lever or caliper breaks, may have to buy complete side (LEFT or RIGHT HAND SIDE lever/caliper again), to replace, as individual parts MAY not be available, or unable to separate as integrated.
OR SEE FULL DESCRIPTION WHY DISK BRAKES ARE SO BRILLIANT HERE
And this an interesting side story:
HYDRAULIC BRAKES rolling road testing!
Anyway we/I may like the feel of nearly all HYDRAULIC BRAKES in the BIKE shops or on our mates brakes, but what are they like RIDING?
I.E: The subjective matter of how do the brakes perform in comparison to other hydraulic disk brakes.
Have a look at Hydraulic brakes rolling road test (Wet & Dry) at the Fibrax BRAKE TEST for MBUK (Mar 2011 issue).
AFTER READING THE ARTICLE, AND GLANCING AT THE TABLE OF RESULTS, TRYING TO MAKE SENSE OF IT, YOU MAY ASK YOURSELF: WHAT DO ALL THE FIGURES MEAN?
~ The HIGHER the FIGURE the MORE EFFECTIVE that BRAKE is. (IE. It BRAKES MORE QUICKLY).
~ The LOWER the FIGURE the LESS EFFECTIVE that BRAKE is. (IE. It BRAKES MORE SLOWLY).
The individual figures per brake represent deceleration in metres per second 2.
There are 3 categories of test (50N, 100N & 150N), of gradually increasing the strength of BRAKE LEVER PULL:
~ 50N (Soft pull on brake lever)
~ 100N (Medium pull on brake lever)
~ 150N (Hard pull on brake lever)
NOTES:
~ The brake tests that show N/A, show that the brake came to a total stop or skidded.
~ N = NEWTON
Well well well in the tests the Avid Elixir 3's (Hint, hint, hint, by the way) performed well. But like nearly all brakes, they're not sold in PAIRS!
Also very very interesting is this VIDEO, of a HYDRAULIC BRAKE being tested, fascinating viewing I think. REALLY.
And back to the original subject of this message:
As daft as it sounds........ (For those who already know how to TRUE wheels, sarcasm?)
Truing wheels on bikes that have disk brakes, and still have brake boss holes, is simple to do and works well.
I know it sounds like sarcasm:
~ Use some old V's (Sarcasm alternative: V = Volts. A battery is portable, and has a low voltage.)
~ Take out the springs (Sarcasm alternative: No spring! Darkness has fallen! A long summer, and a long winter, or just a long winter! A new Auschwitz!)
~ When you've set them up, don't forget to take off the OLD V's (Sarcasm alternative: Imagine you ride off with those V's still on, you'll think Something And Rattling, cockney rhyming slang, flipping eck forgot about those, gatling gun, etc)
Also if you did leave on the V's and did NOT realise, who would realise first?:
~Yourself wondering what is rattling about, then realise "YOU LEFT ON" the old V's!
Sarcasm alternative:
~Or perhaps your FRIENDS would ask about why your recent questionable UPGRADES, as you appear to have either:
~ two braking systems for the front or rear
OR
~ Trying to out do Cannondale LEFTIE
OR
~ You have a rather odd looking mp3 player with all your LP's cobbled onto it, but your friends theorise that the object(s) is an mp3 player that looks like some old V's
But fair enough look at those unfinished ends on other peoples MTB's:
~ Zip ties excess not cut off
~ Bolts not cut down
~ Reflectors left on
Just for starters?
Also on full suspension bikes, WHEELS will buckle less (Some movie sound tracks or quotes or old sayings)
Papa got a brand new bag... (Face off)
It was not me/us who burnt the sun (The Matrix)
1 2 tie my shoe (Some old musical, about shoes, boots or something)
Stuck in the middle with you (Pulp Fiction)
When the lights go out (Backstreet Boys)
But with FULL SUSPENSION BIKES that also HAVE, DISK BRAKES, it is harder to make comparisons that the rims are still in TRUE, so wheels maybe trued less often, hence to people who do NOT know how to do any adjustments on their bikes, so they take their bikes to the local bike shop(s) for service and repair, they may hear the words "THE WHEEL DIDN'T HAVE ANY TENSION IN IT, SO IT JUST COLLAPSED", then the customer says "WELL I JUST RIDE MY BIKE". (Of course this implies the customer skill level is that of a Pro DHer, and as if the catalyst for wheel collapse was some sort of massive downhill, with outrageously rooty terrain, as if "It was nothing").
The customer will be annoyed at the jibe that they have been riding their bike too hard, and take their bike home. Incidentally there is a place called Orsenhausen in Germany (As it sounds, Arse House), incidently my Mum was born there, I've been there, but that is another story.
Then the customer will reflect on what has been said to them, and they think/say "WELL, AFTER ALL THOSE YEARS and MTB RIDES, IT'S NOT SURPRISING those wheels collapsed".
Then they say to themselves well it might need a few PARTS:
WHAT IS THIS THREAD ALL ABOUT?
IF YOU'VE GOT DISK BRAKES HOW ARE YOU GOING TO TRUE YOUR WHEELS:
~ BIKE SHOP/MATES
~ YOURSELF AT HOME, TRUING JIG
~ YOURSELF AT HOME, YOUR WHEELS INTO ANOTHER BIKE WITH CANTILEVER V's
~ YOURSELF AT HOME, AS I IMPROVISED, with some old V's! (As long as your bike still has BRAKE BOSS STUDS/HOLES!)
Parts needed:
~ V brakes (With springs taken out, as don't need tension for brake lever return)
~ V brake bolts (If brake boss stud taken out, then ->
~ 8MM bolts & nuts
~ Spoke key
~ Then turn your MTB upside down,
~ Bolt the V's (With no springs or cables!), adjust the pads, then TRUE your wheels, SIMPLE!
:shock: When you're done Truing, DO NOT forget to take off the old V's!
Since most people enjoy DISK BRAKES, the only real issue is to true your wheels you really need a WHEEL TRUING JIG, but these aren't cheap at £50 TO £200:
Or you could true your wheels in a FRAME/FORK that does have cantilever V brakes. This should go without saying but here goes:
~ You can't put a FRONT WHEEL in a MTB FRAME
~ You can't put a REAR WHEEL in a FORK
Also if your FRAME/FORK doesn't have any brake boss stud holes, then this conversation topic is a waste of your time, truing use a wheel jig or true your wheels in frame/fork with cantilever V's.
IF YOU DON'T HAVE A MTB WITH DISK BRAKES and after reading the above you're put off BUYING A MTB WITH DISK BRAKES or UPGRADING YOUR MTB TO DISK BRAKES. DON'T BE PUT OFF, As along as you can realistically afford DISK BRAKES (& DISK READY HUBS, FORK/FRAME WITH DISK CALIPER MOUNTS, & SEPERATE GEAR SHIFTERS), they are definitely better brakes (SEE TESTED DISK BRAKES FURTHER BELOW, TITLE: HYDRAULIC BRAKES rolling road testing!):
PROs (advantages) of DISK BRAKES:
~ If tyre/rim gets wet, disk brake performance unaffected.
~ If rim gets buckled disk brake performance unaffected (Hence no unexpected brake/tyre rub, hence less unexpected tyre explosions!)
~ Less brake fade from speed.
~ Less friction/flex then previous historic brakes (No brakes bosses used hence much less flex).
~ Pad life long.
~ Tyre width not limited by brakes (Such as centre pull, side pull or cantilever, as cable or brake housing may rub on larger width tyres).
CONs (disadvantages) of DISK BRAKES:
~ To fit MTB must have disk mounts on FRAME, FORK, BOTH HUBS, and if you have COMBO gear & brake levers then you would have to buy separate GEAR SHIFTERS as well, but only IF you're changing to HYDRAULIC as the lever style in different on HYDRAULIC DISK BRAKES, but the same on CABLE PULL DISK BRAKES (So if upgrading to CABLE DISK BRAKES, you can keep your existing BRAKE LEVERS even if combination style).
~ Pad replacement can be fiddly.
~ Setup/adjustment may not be obvious without consulting instructions first.
~ Setup/adjustment even with instructions may be fiddly, and may need some tools (Specialist or not), such as funnel for brake fluid top up (DOT5, etc), socket/spanner for bleed valve, rubber tube (Of correct diameter to be tight fit on bleed valve) and jar to siphon brake fluid during bleeding process to eradicate air bubbles until all are gone (No longer visible).
~ If brake lever or caliper breaks, may have to buy complete side (LEFT or RIGHT HAND SIDE lever/caliper again), to replace, as individual parts MAY not be available, or unable to separate as integrated.
OR SEE FULL DESCRIPTION WHY DISK BRAKES ARE SO BRILLIANT HERE
And this an interesting side story:
HYDRAULIC BRAKES rolling road testing!
Anyway we/I may like the feel of nearly all HYDRAULIC BRAKES in the BIKE shops or on our mates brakes, but what are they like RIDING?
I.E: The subjective matter of how do the brakes perform in comparison to other hydraulic disk brakes.
Have a look at Hydraulic brakes rolling road test (Wet & Dry) at the Fibrax BRAKE TEST for MBUK (Mar 2011 issue).
AFTER READING THE ARTICLE, AND GLANCING AT THE TABLE OF RESULTS, TRYING TO MAKE SENSE OF IT, YOU MAY ASK YOURSELF: WHAT DO ALL THE FIGURES MEAN?
~ The HIGHER the FIGURE the MORE EFFECTIVE that BRAKE is. (IE. It BRAKES MORE QUICKLY).
~ The LOWER the FIGURE the LESS EFFECTIVE that BRAKE is. (IE. It BRAKES MORE SLOWLY).
The individual figures per brake represent deceleration in metres per second 2.
There are 3 categories of test (50N, 100N & 150N), of gradually increasing the strength of BRAKE LEVER PULL:
~ 50N (Soft pull on brake lever)
~ 100N (Medium pull on brake lever)
~ 150N (Hard pull on brake lever)
NOTES:
~ The brake tests that show N/A, show that the brake came to a total stop or skidded.
~ N = NEWTON
Well well well in the tests the Avid Elixir 3's (Hint, hint, hint, by the way) performed well. But like nearly all brakes, they're not sold in PAIRS!
Also very very interesting is this VIDEO, of a HYDRAULIC BRAKE being tested, fascinating viewing I think. REALLY.
And back to the original subject of this message:
As daft as it sounds........ (For those who already know how to TRUE wheels, sarcasm?)
Truing wheels on bikes that have disk brakes, and still have brake boss holes, is simple to do and works well.
I know it sounds like sarcasm:
~ Use some old V's (Sarcasm alternative: V = Volts. A battery is portable, and has a low voltage.)
~ Take out the springs (Sarcasm alternative: No spring! Darkness has fallen! A long summer, and a long winter, or just a long winter! A new Auschwitz!)
~ When you've set them up, don't forget to take off the OLD V's (Sarcasm alternative: Imagine you ride off with those V's still on, you'll think Something And Rattling, cockney rhyming slang, flipping eck forgot about those, gatling gun, etc)
Also if you did leave on the V's and did NOT realise, who would realise first?:
~Yourself wondering what is rattling about, then realise "YOU LEFT ON" the old V's!
Sarcasm alternative:
~Or perhaps your FRIENDS would ask about why your recent questionable UPGRADES, as you appear to have either:
~ two braking systems for the front or rear
OR
~ Trying to out do Cannondale LEFTIE
OR
~ You have a rather odd looking mp3 player with all your LP's cobbled onto it, but your friends theorise that the object(s) is an mp3 player that looks like some old V's
But fair enough look at those unfinished ends on other peoples MTB's:
~ Zip ties excess not cut off
~ Bolts not cut down
~ Reflectors left on
Just for starters?
Also on full suspension bikes, WHEELS will buckle less (Some movie sound tracks or quotes or old sayings)
Papa got a brand new bag... (Face off)
It was not me/us who burnt the sun (The Matrix)
1 2 tie my shoe (Some old musical, about shoes, boots or something)
Stuck in the middle with you (Pulp Fiction)
When the lights go out (Backstreet Boys)
But with FULL SUSPENSION BIKES that also HAVE, DISK BRAKES, it is harder to make comparisons that the rims are still in TRUE, so wheels maybe trued less often, hence to people who do NOT know how to do any adjustments on their bikes, so they take their bikes to the local bike shop(s) for service and repair, they may hear the words "THE WHEEL DIDN'T HAVE ANY TENSION IN IT, SO IT JUST COLLAPSED", then the customer says "WELL I JUST RIDE MY BIKE". (Of course this implies the customer skill level is that of a Pro DHer, and as if the catalyst for wheel collapse was some sort of massive downhill, with outrageously rooty terrain, as if "It was nothing").
The customer will be annoyed at the jibe that they have been riding their bike too hard, and take their bike home. Incidentally there is a place called Orsenhausen in Germany (As it sounds, Arse House), incidently my Mum was born there, I've been there, but that is another story.
Then the customer will reflect on what has been said to them, and they think/say "WELL, AFTER ALL THOSE YEARS and MTB RIDES, IT'S NOT SURPRISING those wheels collapsed".
Then they say to themselves well it might need a few PARTS:
WHAT IS THIS THREAD ALL ABOUT?
IF YOU'VE GOT DISK BRAKES HOW ARE YOU GOING TO TRUE YOUR WHEELS:
~ BIKE SHOP/MATES
~ YOURSELF AT HOME, TRUING JIG
~ YOURSELF AT HOME, YOUR WHEELS INTO ANOTHER BIKE WITH CANTILEVER V's
~ YOURSELF AT HOME, AS I IMPROVISED, with some old V's! (As long as your bike still has BRAKE BOSS STUDS/HOLES!)
