CARTRIDGE BOTTOM BRACKETS, brilliant aren't they

CARTRIDGE BOTTOM BRACKETS, brilliant aren't they...

Remember the old rubbish non-cartridge bottom brackets?
They look OK, but they continuously worked loose (The lock ring would work loose), the bearings got wet and worn easily, leading to creaks and seizing often for keen MTB cyclists. The one piece version of these is only found on really really cheap bikes and BMX, are even worse:



Then came the much awaited & much praised cartridge bottom bracket, the installation does NOT have a lockring, the BB shell on the non-drive side, do NOT need adjustment afterwards, and they are smooth running for many years, even for keen MTB cyclists:


Now we have a new style cartridge bottom, the cartridge Hollowtech II bottom bracket, unconventionally the bottom bracket AXLE is part of the crank (drive side), the bottom bracket consists of the bottom bracket shell cups and an AXLE sleeve, the drive side crank fixed axle passes through the drive side bottom bracket cup centre hole, then the non-drive side crank bolts on the drive side crank fixed axle:

Lots of cyclists are riding these, but when the simple cheap cartridge bottom bracket works, why have a BB like these? Perhaps LESS bottom bracket shells seized in frames that would NOT have be removable with standard bb tool, would be possible to remove to Hollow tech style bb tool. The rationale of this is since standard cartridge BB's cup knurled edges DO NOT stick out of the frame, there is no surface to grip, as alternative removal (Other then flat blade screwdriver and hammer!), hence the following tools would not be of any use: Adjustable Wrench, Pipe Wrench and Mole Grips, whereas if knurled edges of Hollowtech BB shell did "round off" then possibly use Adjustable Wrench, Pipe Wrench or Mole Grips!

Perhaps there is an alternative purpose, more choice, perhaps, cyclists looking at buying MTB or upgrade their MTB would prefer a crank and BB that looks more sophisticated.

Also there is a number of splined axle bottom brackets:


To generalise alot about what most people are riding on quality (Open to personnel interpretation!) MTB's:
~ BB shell diameter is a standard (Apart from BMXs and cheapest MTB's which are naff 1 piece cranks),
~ BB axle length differs on BIKES
~ Crank length is normally 1 of 2 types:
170mm (Normally 16" size bikes or less) or
175mm (Normally 16" sizes bikes or bigger).

I still say praise be to the original cartridge BB which is cheap, smooth running for years, and easy to fit and remove with specialist tool.


Or the newer style HollowTech BB which I guess it's aesthetic styling will appeal to many, and from it's appearance and the necessary fitting/removal TOOL should be easy, tightening appears straight forward, guess this holds tight as might as conventional cartridge bottom brackets.


ALSO IN A TOPIC ABOUT BOTTOM BRACKETS, this is worth mentioning when fitting/removing BB's:
~ DRIVE SIDE (R/H): TIGHTEN & LOOSEN OPPOSITE of NORMAL (i.e: Tighten = Anti-Clockwise or Slacken = Clockwise)
~ NONE DRIVE SIDE (L/H): TIGHTEN & LOOSEN AS NORMAL (i.e: Tighten = Clockwise or Slacken = Anti-Clockwise)

For more detailed instructions from EHOW see HERE.

The above is different to fitting PEDALS, L/H pedal/crank is reverse thread. Probably why so many people knacker the thread of their cranks, when taking off existing pedals, or fitting their new clipless SPD's.

HOW TO FIT PEDAL (NOTE: L/H PEDAL REVERSE THREAD & R/H PEDAL NORMAL THREAD)

errr

I quite like external bb's
Cartridge bearings are a good thing in my opinion
A bit more user friendly too

And the cups stick out so would have a good place to grip if it was damaged
Or you could cut off the bit of the cup that sticks out to release the tension with minimal damage to frame, if your careful

You have way too much time on your hands!!

Less caps and more bold is an improvement.

CYCLIST and CYCLIST MECHANIC

jonnugget69":wn1wusz1 said:

You have way too much time on your hands!!

Click to expand...

~ As a keen MTBer these days I rarely need to adjust/change parts on my bike.

~ As a cycle mechanic the preparation of new bikes (Cheap & Expensive), and repair/servicing of customers bikes (Cheap & Expensive), gives you a much greater appreciation of the type/setup/performance/longlivety of the majority of parts (But obviously front suspension forks and rear shocks, you can't really gain much of an opinion of their performance when riding off road).

Re: CYCLIST and CYCLIST MECHANIC

srands":qcsfkp4i said:

~ As a cycle mechanic the preparation of new bikes (Cheap & Expensive), and repair/servicing of customers bikes (Cheap & Expensive), gives you a much greater appreciation of the type/setup/performance/longlivety of the majority of parts

Click to expand...

True

The only thing with the sealed bottom bracket tool is its very prone to the splines slipping out of place at the key moment

Re: BB & MATRIX ANALOGY

cyfa2809":13jq9vp5 said:

True. The only thing with the sealed bottom bracket tool is its very prone to the splines slipping out of place at the key moment

Click to expand...

THIS MIGHT ROUND OFF IN A SECOND



I BOUGHT THIS YESTERDAY, THIS DOESN'T FIT MINE, CAN I EXCHANGE IT?



DO YOU HEAR ANY CREAKING?



I FORGOT L/H WAS OPPOSITE THREAD, WOULDN'T WHY THE PEDAL DIDN'T WANT TO COME OFF!



IS THIS TOO GOOD TO BE TRUE?



HOW DO YOU FIT THESE?



IS THIS GOING TO FIT? I'M COULD GET A PRO TO DO IT.



IS IT EASIER TO TAKE OUT MY OLD BB SHELLS WITH MY WHEELS STILL ON? OR SHALL I'LL MESS ABOUT WITH IT ON THE FLOOR?



THIS IS A LOAD OF REALLY OLD RUBBISH

?!!

So i wasn't going mad when i had creaky bottom brackets

God help us when he discovers his balls............

I like the 'normal' BB square taper.

Had the modern BB collected dirt & mud like honey to a bee :x