Advice pls, Want to buy a cheap Road bike for upgrading, con

The bike actually never made the asking price so didnt sell. His number is also at the bottom so maybe you could see if he'll post it for an agreed price?

Whenever I am trying to find out about a potential bike I want to buy, I always try and find the catelogue so you can see where it fits into the range. There are loads of brochures online. I think this is especially good at the start when you don't have a good idea about component hierarchy ie Dura ace, Shimano 600 etc. Its also an idea to ask the seller the serial number, as for raleighs you can tell the year of the bike from this and find the right catelogue.

It is interesting to see some sellers reaction to you asking for the serial number, ie its probably stolen!

The next thing i think you should do is as mentioned above, learn about the hierarchy of components. Obviously the better the components the better the bike is probably going to be.

As for the bike you have mentioned about it is my opinion that you should not purchase this bike.

Raleigh actually bought Carlton at somepoint in the 1960's so that raleigh could have a bigger share of the high end market. However, in my own opinion the bikes declined from that point onwards. In the late 70's and 80's they were actually made side by side and I even have a raleigh sirocco which says it was handbuilt by carlton. Raleigh often, as manufacturers also do now, tried to push their own branded components. I think this was more on their recreational bikes. Certainly any bike I have went to see that has a raleigh crankset like the one have been at the lower end of the scale.

I think the sirocco I advised a while ago was a pretty good buy. Reynolds 501 tubing and would probably have shimano golden arrow components. Pretty nice in my opinion!
 
Thanks ksvb5368,
The sirocco auction ended while I was out, looked as though it was going to go cheap, so i put a bid in and left it. Only went for a few pounds over my max.
The Falcon looks ok, but too far to check it over and see if its a dog. I have looked at a few bikes that have been in poor condition despite being advertised as good.
I want to avoid having to spend lots of money from the outset, as other have suggested, buy a running bike and save for repairs / upgrades.

Please do keep any ideas coming, I have not had a reply to my WTD AD yet;
http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=151584
Am i allowed to bump?
Cheers
Ian
 
I have tried to make some suggestions but at the end of the day it's all up to you.

Even at £150, that's really not a lot for a bike. My first road bike was a Specialized Allez which was around £500 in 2005/06. Although it was a reasonably nice bike, it still had lower end sora components and cheap radio wheels.

You also need to remember that since the "single speed craze" has dawned on us, prices for the type of bike you are trying to purchase have soared. ( They are especially good because of the horizontal drop outs).

As I had said in my previous post buying a 20/30 year old steel framed bike really is a mixed bag. So what can you expect for £150?

I would say either a lower end bike in really nice condition, or a "tatty" bike which has higher end components but will probably need replacing sooner rather than later. Regardless, most of these bikes will probably have spent a number of years sitting around doing nothing and some of the parts/cables will have seized.

If you aren't able to see the bike and you're buying it from ebay then you really could end up with anything, as I'm sure most members on here will be able to back me up on! So I would say the best thing to do is take a risk and buy one!
 
Re:

Glad you saw to spend a bit more, the best upgrade you can make is on wheels though, as the more you spend the lighter and stiffer they will be, with bearings that roll with far less friction. Steel bikes tend to be comfy, but can be flexy and generally on the heavy side, usually about a kilo heavier than even a moderately priced carbon frame. Tyres would be another worthwhile consideration, lighter, better grip, lower rolling resistance and much better puncture proofing.
 
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