hope bigun hubs.... have i bought too much wheel?

when i grind my bolts off, i do so until the head is flat
then there is no torque on the threads once the rotor is off

bear in mind i do ths with a spinning disc on the drill with sandpaper on

so in effect sanding off the head of the bolt
not so much grinding
but the rotor can be a scrificial barrier to the hub if needs be

just be careful not to get your cones/seal
 
i was giving thought to welding a small nut onto the remnants of the bolts so i can simply unscrew them, the biggest issue is gonna be heat transfer though so i might try a smaller drill through the bolt centre first, drop a self tapper or a tec-screw into them and pull them out that way.
 
This happened on mine and i used a flat punch to hammer a step on the bolt and then a punch to shock loose and 2 - 3 hits and free.

Hope they haven't put them beyond repair
 
small hub update - the bolts have been drilled a tad too far for punch unscrewing, i don't want to risk the heat build up knackering the hub or the ano if i welded a bolt onto the back of them so i just went for the drill approach. the rotors are off and aside from a few scratches and one bent spoke, they seem to be pretty good (although i will need to true the rear wheel, its about 2mm out)

as for fitting the clockwork..... they don't look as ridiculous as i first thought but i could probably benefit from switching them out for a pair of 'normal' sized ones at some point down the line! with a pair of arch rivals and some XC pro 2.1's on them they balance out fairly well on the frame too.

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to be fair, the look awesome! especially that red on green
clean em up and get some more pics please :cool:
 
I use a drill to take out the middle of the bolt.I think its a 3mm im using.Then cut a slot in the top[i use a dremel and use a straight screwdriver to undo.Drilling out the center takes the pressure off,makes a huge difference,plus by staying well within the threads with the thin drill,you dont risk damaging them.
 
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