80's road bike re-built with pics Finished.
- Thread starter DAVE O
- Start date
can't beat a good cusom build
i bought am M+B DRONFIELD around 1990 ish when the veloce group with ergo's first came out- still have the receipt somewhere it was around £800, cost me 2 1/2 months wages
one of those bikes i wish i still had but you know how it is,moved more onto mtbs and it was not getting used so sold it, got just nder £400 for it for a 10 year old bike,mind you it was in stunning condition never out in rain etc
went up to marsh's in summer for som bits for a colnago i was doing up and i am certain rick was tinkering in the back worshop
as for the guy who said s*****O on come on
campagnolo is the one true religion all others are just heretics
bet he would buy a ferrari and put a ford zetec it in
well those last two sentances should stir things up
i bought am M+B DRONFIELD around 1990 ish when the veloce group with ergo's first came out- still have the receipt somewhere it was around £800, cost me 2 1/2 months wages
one of those bikes i wish i still had but you know how it is,moved more onto mtbs and it was not getting used so sold it, got just nder £400 for it for a 10 year old bike,mind you it was in stunning condition never out in rain etc
went up to marsh's in summer for som bits for a colnago i was doing up and i am certain rick was tinkering in the back worshop
as for the guy who said s*****O on come on
campagnolo is the one true religion all others are just heretics
bet he would buy a ferrari and put a ford zetec it in
well those last two sentances should stir things up
I was under the impression that the rear end - axle width is not wide enough for 9 speed stuff...
And as for putting Shimano stuff on it .........Wash your mouth out
Is there a way of changing the screw on block to a single speed set up or is it I suspect a different hub?
Look what your talking me into now :roll: :roll:
And as for putting Shimano stuff on it .........Wash your mouth out
Is there a way of changing the screw on block to a single speed set up or is it I suspect a different hub?
Look what your talking me into now :roll: :roll:
No problem converting to SS, just screw on a SS freewheel.
If you wanted to make it fixed then you could use a screw on cog but it is known as a suicide cog on a non track hub for obvious reasons. If you crank it up real tight and use a BB lockring with decent locktite and use two brakes you should be fine. A proper track hub has a thread the same but in addition a smaller left-hand thread that the lockring screws onto. If you use the fixie for braking (ie backwards pressure) then the cog tries to turn against the lockring which being a LH thread tightens up rather than loosens.
If you wanted to make it fixed then you could use a screw on cog but it is known as a suicide cog on a non track hub for obvious reasons. If you crank it up real tight and use a BB lockring with decent locktite and use two brakes you should be fine. A proper track hub has a thread the same but in addition a smaller left-hand thread that the lockring screws onto. If you use the fixie for braking (ie backwards pressure) then the cog tries to turn against the lockring which being a LH thread tightens up rather than loosens.
i suspect the rear end is 126mm
8/9/10 speed is 130mm you should be able to open the rear 2mm each side by hand sliding the rear wheel in
if its 120 mm its a bit much and would recomend getting a frame builder to cold set it at 130 mm
s*****o cassette hubs are the same for8-10 speed its the gap between the cogs which gets smaller as no of gears goes up
campag 8 is diferent spline to 9+10 for cassete but 9 and 10 is only different by gap between cogs
in theory you can mix and match but any discrepancy between cogs is obviously magnified x8,x9,x10 when you are at either end of the block and can be 3-4 mm out at extremes
rather than go fixed go singlespeed with a single speed screw on freewhee saves the panic of contiuous pedalingl
8/9/10 speed is 130mm you should be able to open the rear 2mm each side by hand sliding the rear wheel in
if its 120 mm its a bit much and would recomend getting a frame builder to cold set it at 130 mm
s*****o cassette hubs are the same for8-10 speed its the gap between the cogs which gets smaller as no of gears goes up
campag 8 is diferent spline to 9+10 for cassete but 9 and 10 is only different by gap between cogs
in theory you can mix and match but any discrepancy between cogs is obviously magnified x8,x9,x10 when you are at either end of the block and can be 3-4 mm out at extremes
rather than go fixed go singlespeed with a single speed screw on freewhee saves the panic of contiuous pedalingl
The rear end is 120mm and currently has a 6 speed screw on campag block fitted. Think I'm going to get a single/free and give it a go as it doesn't look like I'll get a lot for the bike ££ - apart from the brakes
Oh yeah - spoke to my old man who tells me that Rick does work the odd day for Marshy at Maltby... Maybe have a ride over on the single speed when it's done!
Oh yeah - spoke to my old man who tells me that Rick does work the odd day for Marshy at Maltby... Maybe have a ride over on the single speed when it's done!
Agency_Scum
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Don't forget that a frame builder can tug that bugger out to a modern 130mm.
DAVE O":22xhfaom said:
For a freewheel look for an ACS Claw or Shimano DX, both basic BMX freewheels that do the job. Prices vary but you should get either for under £15 posted; I've had both on and offroad and they've lasted a reasonable legth of time for the price. If you want bling, and I suspect you don't, White Industries are highly rated but cost £75!
If you're using 48t at the front 18t at the back would be good if you've got undulating terrain although you could go with 16t if it's flat or you are particularly strong. I had 53x18 for a while on undulating terrain, made a man of me but it's much kinder on the knees with 48x18.
Hope that helps
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