New school question - Rear suspension Epic question -

tft well impressed me on the phone too. Called to ask about a shock service, and this guy was well knowledgable about bike, set up, weight, problems, tuning. Like talking to a right geek which is actually just want you want to give you confidence.

Quick service, not cheap, but my shock is now almost new.

Gump is descrbing better what I was tring to say

I took my epic in myself the day after killing the forks at the bristol bike fest I took the whole bike in, left it there and collected after work The guy who serviced the fork also went through my set up,and
rebound. Showed me how wrong i had been running them.
Very very useful place Awsome sevice....just a shame they can't do
shocks with brains :cry:

Gawd peeps ur all on tonight.


Yeah, it seems to be what Gump's saying - not a problem with the shock but a problem with the bushing at that end - too much play.

Yeah it does "clonk" when you drop it.

Just need a new bushing or maybe turn it round like you say. I'll have a play tomorrow night.

a guy who works at TFT is re building a Manitou full sus bike . I have just swapped some forks for a chainset with him .
I gave him the forum adress but not sure he joined .

jez-2-many-bikes":32v2fjrz said:

Mmm.

I can see where there is play - its where the shock mount at the drop out end mounts to the frame - theres a micro amount of play in that bushing it seems.

Now next question is: is "this" normal?

Click to expand...

No it is not normal and I suspect that new DU bushings, eyelet reducers and maybe a new shock bolt is required.

If you have a bushing removal tool (they aren't expensive) its a 5 minute job to change the bushing and press in new reducers.

Play can also develop between the bolt and the reducer or the reducer hole become ovalised which can also cause similar amounts of play.

When you reassemble it is also worth checking that the reducers are moving in the shock bushing (as they should) rather than the reducer moving on the frame. This can happen if you do a lot of wet weather riding as the reducers lock it the bushing.

To check the above put a small line accross the interface of the reducer and frame with a permanent marker and with a soft shock check that the line s stay relative as the rear is compressed.

I hope that helps.

Oh, and Jez, you were right about stw.... after spending 10 mins waiting for your thread to post :evil: you would probably get some dick telling
you to buy a 29er or a on one :!:

jez-2-many-bikes":2hsyyr1g said:

Mmm.

I can see where there is play - its where the shock mount at the drop out end mounts to the frame - theres a micro amount of play in that bushing it seems.

Now next question is: is "this" normal?

Click to expand...

Additional:

If you remove the shock at that end and can pull the reducers out by hand (or that fall out) then the bushing or reducer (or both) is definitely worn out.

Reducers should be tight in the bushing.

yep, as andrewl says.

they should be nice and snug.