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PostPosted: Sun Apr 12, 2009 6:59 pm 
East Midlands AEC
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spd's definitely - would always be my first upgrade on any bike.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 12, 2009 7:01 pm 
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Location: on the mothership with a probe up my aaa..
wheels, best you can afford, then probably the drive train.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 12, 2009 7:03 pm 
MacModerator
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losidan wrote:
Xesh wrote:
ferrus wrote:
.....handbuilt wheels.


You'll notice the difference in the ride if you get a decent pair of wheels more than you would with the frame.


interesting....what would be the difference...more direct steering?



Should be faster stiffer and stronger especially if the builder knows what hes doing.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 12, 2009 7:04 pm 
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Best bang for buck though would be tyres.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 12, 2009 7:09 pm 
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losidan wrote:
interesting....what would be the difference...more direct steering?


Depends upon what spec the wheels are but generally handbuilt wheels will be stronger than their factory built equivalents (even if built with the same components).

If you get lighter wheels the acceleration will feel more immediate and it will seem to climb better.

I replaced the steel wheels on my Raleigh Mustang bitd and it felt like I was riding a different bike. It rode lighter and felt easier to ride. That's an extreme difference though.

Generally speaking weight shaved from the wheels is more noticeable than weight shaved from a frame. This is because the wheels have to be accelerated forward as well as around. The other benefit of lighter wheels is that it'll enable any suspension to work better (although this might not be as noticeable).


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 12, 2009 10:59 pm 
retrobike rider
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Get yourself on a wheel building course.Full-on " bang-for-buck " as you stop feeling like the apprentice and more like the sorcerer.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 13, 2009 2:44 pm 
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Track pump.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 13, 2009 3:46 pm 
Retro Guru
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kaiser wrote:
Best bang for buck though would be tyres.


Agreed. Different tyres make the feel of the bike totally different.
Wheels second, frame third if you really feel the need. Groupset as and when it wears out.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 13, 2009 4:00 pm 
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chris667 wrote:
Track pump.


:D forgot about that one.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 13, 2009 4:57 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 01, 2009 2:49 pm
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Location: Boiling in a Bivvy Bag
This choice may not be shared by many, but I feel it a bit of a duty to say how White Lightning 'Self-Cleaning Wax' lubricant has transformed my cycling experience. It's a thin liquid lube, that dries to a wax coating, and actually 'sheds' any dirt that lands on it, so it stays totally clean and dry. Over months this wax coating builds up and improves. If you scrape it with your nail you can see that it is uncontaminated by any grime and the chain beneath is shiny. I honestly NEVER need to wash my drive-train and haven't for several years! All it needs is a quick wipe with a clean cloth, and then relube.
The secret to using this stuff is to thoroughly clean every trace of lube or degreaser off the chain before you first apply it, [even a new chain needs a meticulous soak.] but you'll probably never be washing your chain again, so it's worth it. Like I said, one of the benefits is how the wax builds up and penatrates over time. Also because it's uniquely dry and clean, it doesn't dirty your clothes etc.
The downside is that it's thin and not very durable, so needs applying generously every couple of rides or so [every ride in winter] and leaving to dry for a few hours before.
It's also pretty damn expensive @ £9 -240ml but that lasts me most of the year. -I'm really mean and hardly ever buy new parts, I repair bearings bushings etc rather than keep buying replacements, but this lube is SO worth it. My drive-chain is always clean, runs like clockwork and seems to be lasting far better. It is a remarkable product if used properly.


I am not in the trade :lol:


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