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 Post subject: Metal to Metal Adhesive?
PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2008 10:10 pm 
Gold Trader
Gold Trader

Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2005 8:22 pm
Posts: 1811
Location: St Ives,Cambridgeshire
Metal to Metal Adhesive?
Does anyone know if they work, was thinking something from the automotive world may work
Any recommendations please

Cheers
Rich


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2008 11:09 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Fri Nov 28, 2008 1:46 am
Posts: 39
For what application? (maybe better in "General & off topic")


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2008 11:40 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
retrobike rider / Gold Trader

Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2007 9:05 pm
Posts: 9245
Q-bond. Its a two part product. An adheasive and a powder. I've used it to bond saddle rails back into broken carbon seats and six months on it's still rock solid! Also used it on metal- as an experiment I used it to fit a rear quarter panel to a MGB along the top ( impossible to weld into place properly without distortion) and then we tried pulling it back off- rock solid. Serious shit if you get it on your fingers though.

Si


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 12:53 am 
98+ BoTM Winner / Gold Trader
98+ BoTM Winner / Gold Trader
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Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2007 7:29 pm
Posts: 1650
Location: Netherlands
The Q-bond above sounds good, I've used similar product with good results Henkel Stabilit Express and there's another: Uhu Acrylit. Fills gaps too and you can sand it to a smooth finish.

But it really depends on the application. Plain 2-component Epoxy adhesive (Araldite) works too, best applied in a thin layer between good fitting components. I also like Automotive PU elastomer adhesives (think of the stuff used to glue windshields in cars) applied in thicker strands and allow for some give/flex after curing. They're single component usually and packaged in a tube like bathroom kit.

surface prep is the key to success for all of them, but the PU adhesive is most forgiving in my experience.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 8:49 am 
retrobike rider
retrobike rider
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Joined: Sun Dec 02, 2007 6:35 pm
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Location: Dunkeswell, Nr Honiton, Devon
bondloc is also good


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 9:14 am 
Old School Grand Master

Joined: Tue Oct 09, 2007 1:55 pm
Posts: 8202
Location: New Forest, UK
It depends on the metal too. Best to sand the mating surfaces immediately before bonding with 400 grade or similar. This is especially important if bonding Aluminium.

For marine applications and Aluminium I have used marine epoxy where you actually wet out the sanding with the epoxy for the best bond.

Depending on the load you can also add fibres to the joint - the ultimate being wrapping the point in glass / kevlar / carbon.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 9:29 am 
Gold Trader
Gold Trader

Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2005 8:22 pm
Posts: 1811
Location: St Ives,Cambridgeshire
Its to try and stick the clamp part back on a Syncros Seatpost.
(think that qualifies as on topic, I hope)

Must stress not for using apart from clamping my frame in a workstand, would like the top on in case the grip loosens and the post doesn't pull straight through the clamp jaws.

Might give the Q Bond a go, sounds seriously strong stuff.
If you don't see any posts from me for a while its probably becaue my fingers are stuck together :D

Thanks all for the advice
Cheers
Rich


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