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PostPosted: Wed Dec 10, 2008 10:30 pm 
Gold Trader / PoTM Winner / RB Rider
Gold Trader / PoTM Winner / RB Rider
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Joined: Wed Oct 05, 2005 7:45 pm
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Location: kent
or even easier ,

I use a normal 8 spd chain, a sprocket from an old cassette , and a normal front ring .
lucky as dont need a tensioner , but I used to use a Surly , it is the best .

and i do 10 miles everyday like that , all year round whatever the weather .


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 10, 2008 10:42 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Location: Penarth
heathy wrote:
Stop being silly and put gears on :roll:


Gears..pah. Noisy ugly things :lol:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 10, 2008 10:49 pm 
Retro Guru
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Harryburgundy wrote:
Gears..pah. Noisy ugly things :lol:


Cor-rect

:wink:


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 9:17 am 
Old School Grand Master

Joined: Tue Oct 09, 2007 1:55 pm
Posts: 8202
Location: New Forest, UK
It all depends on how big your bits box is...

For an ultra-cheap build (for proof of concept, and to see if your knees get on with it)

For back wheel:
1 Stack of old spacers from dismantled worn-out cassettes.
2 Mid to high teens cog
3 Lockring
Set the stack of spacers so that the cog and chainring are in line.

Tensioner:
Old rear mech - road ones are brilliant due to the shorter cage. Ideally you can get it in line by an endstop screw. Failing that take about 3 inches of gear cable with the nipple, feed that into the adjuster and clamp as usual. You can then tweak the mech position by turning the adjuster.

Front:
Some kind of middle ring, secured by single crank bolts.

A ratio of 2:1 or thereabouts on cog sizes is a good starting point.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 10:20 am 
West Midlands AEC
West Midlands AEC
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Location: Stow on the Wold, Glos
Hope Pickle dont mind me jumping in with some questions but with a setting up singlespeed topic open seems pointless starting another

I picked up some singlespeed bits including a chain, Due to it coming with a 44t front ring I believe the chain to be to long, How do I now know how much to shorten it by to now match the solo middle ring I have fitted to the crank?


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 10:31 am 
Old School Grand Master

Joined: Tue Oct 09, 2007 1:55 pm
Posts: 8202
Location: New Forest, UK
Simple - just wrap the chain round the two cogs and break it with a chain tool at the right point where the ends meet. If you use a SRAM powerlink then leave both ends with an inner link.

If you are running with a 44T then you'd need around 22T on the back for offroad, but probably 16 or 17 for road.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 8:27 pm 
West Midlands AEC
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Location: Stow on the Wold, Glos
More questions ..... For the people that have the Tensioners that pull down ... How much does yours pull? Think mine is buggered ... Its sits holding the chain but wouldnt say it really pulls on it?

Quote:
If you are running with a 44T then you'd need around 22T on the back for offroad, but probably 16 or 17 for road.


Im have fitted 32 front with 18t rear??


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 8:57 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Location: Penarth
Should have good tension.....imagine holding down the main lump of a normal mech....same as if not stronger.
PS 32 18 sounds very spin city...are you going up massive hills...or chicken legs :P :lol:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 8:59 pm 
West Midlands AEC
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Location: Stow on the Wold, Glos
Cheers .... Its buggered them .... Damn letting women into man caves!! :evil:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 9:04 pm 
West Midlands AEC
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Joined: Wed May 14, 2008 11:06 pm
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Location: Stow on the Wold, Glos
Quote:
PS 32 18 sounds very spin city...are you going up massive hills...or chicken legs


Bloody hell :roll: I just used the middle ring from a strongarm crank which I thought was the normal thing to do? And the 18 was what came with the kit. Are you saying I should of stuck with the large chainring with an 18t rear?

Mind due I do live in the cotswolds?!? :lol:


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