My not so local bike shop currently charges £20 to reamer a seatpost, my local bike shop does know what a reamer is, having had several frames done over the years I'm toying over getting a reamer and doing it myself from now on, given the cost of a reamer it will take most of my lifetime before it pays for it's self but it's worth it for having to take time of work to get to a shop the other side of town to drop of an collect the frame. I don't care for adjustable reamers, so can anyone recommend a decent suppler of 27.2mm reamers?
Seat Post Reamer Recommendations
- Thread starter Rob H
- Start date
Re:
I wouldn't buy a reamer unless I was building frames. Instead I'd buy a selection of abrasive flap wheels
then stick them on the end of a extension attached to a electric drill.
https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/090412/flap-wheels
I wouldn't buy a reamer unless I was building frames. Instead I'd buy a selection of abrasive flap wheels
then stick them on the end of a extension attached to a electric drill.
https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/090412/flap-wheels
argonsixar
Retro Guru
Re:
there was this bloke racing at Hertford Crits once with a fully drilled seatpost. His saddle snapped off after ten minutes. Turned his seatpost into a reamer....
there was this bloke racing at Hertford Crits once with a fully drilled seatpost. His saddle snapped off after ten minutes. Turned his seatpost into a reamer....
syncrosfan
Senior Retro Guru
I'm using and adjustable blade reamer. Like this one pictured. Works a charm! The one listed would give you a range between 27.0mm to 30.2mm. Which would cover most common seat-post sizes. Most of the time when you need to get a seat-post reamed, the material you need to remove is a little too much to go at once, with this one you can go under-size (remove a little at a time) then work your way up to the final size. It's also a good upper body workout (lots of sweating).
Most frames that you buy are already reamed though (no real need for one). Unless you buy some dodgy half-done Nuke Proof frame (like me) that's by no means done and needs the seat-post reamed because there's a little weld penetration on the inside of the seat-tube junction which needs professional reaming not some sand-paper flappy thing. The reamer isn't horribly expensive (disclaimer: I didn't pay for mine but I persuaded my buddy who does the ordering for the shop that we "need" and adjustable blade reamer which "happened" to be the right size I needed). In any case, I use this kind of reamer, followed by a quick run with a 180 grit carbide flex-hone. I gave up dealing with bike shops a long time ago, now I'm buying all the specialty tools I need and do all the work myself.
Most frames that you buy are already reamed though (no real need for one). Unless you buy some dodgy half-done Nuke Proof frame (like me) that's by no means done and needs the seat-post reamed because there's a little weld penetration on the inside of the seat-tube junction which needs professional reaming not some sand-paper flappy thing. The reamer isn't horribly expensive (disclaimer: I didn't pay for mine but I persuaded my buddy who does the ordering for the shop that we "need" and adjustable blade reamer which "happened" to be the right size I needed). In any case, I use this kind of reamer, followed by a quick run with a 180 grit carbide flex-hone. I gave up dealing with bike shops a long time ago, now I'm buying all the specialty tools I need and do all the work myself.
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syncrosfan
Senior Retro Guru
"The only time a reamer is needed is when the frame was made".
Exactly! No commercially available frame should need a reamer taken to it. If it's just clean-up you're after (rust and oxide layer removal) then you could use a flex-hone like the one pictured. They're quite a bit cheaper and available in different sizes. If a bike shop charges 20 quid to use one of those a couple of times going up and down the seat-tube with an electric drill, then it's worth getting the tool and doing it at home.
Exactly! No commercially available frame should need a reamer taken to it. If it's just clean-up you're after (rust and oxide layer removal) then you could use a flex-hone like the one pictured. They're quite a bit cheaper and available in different sizes. If a bike shop charges 20 quid to use one of those a couple of times going up and down the seat-tube with an electric drill, then it's worth getting the tool and doing it at home.
