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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 10:50 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Location: The Home Of Mountain Biking, And All Great Things.
Depending on how much you are paying, it is well worth getting a vehicle inspection carried out.

The AA and RAC do a very thorough job, and their report can practically pay for itself when they identify faults that give you a bargaining position.

Even if you know a mechanic, the dealer is unlikely to allow any old person to give it such a thorough look over and test drive, and is more likely to argue the toss with an individual rather than a report from an accredited source.

I have used the AA a number of times to inspect vehicles prior to purchase, worked for me. :)


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 8:29 am 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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sinnerman wrote:
Check clutch and flywheel, when/if it was done, otherwise it will be a grand inc labour.



This if it's a TDCi, budget for a new one after 70k too unless it's been converted to solid flywheel.

Carl.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 8:45 am 
King of the Skip Monkeys
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I see no-one has actually given any practical advice then.

How do you test for a dodgy flywheel? - you have the engine running and you put your foot on the clutch. If you hear an extra 'whirring' noise and feel some vibration, thats the flywheel rattling away. £500 depending on garage.

MK3 Engines are chain driven, you should never need to worry. MK4 (current shape) Diesels are back to belt driven as far as I am aware, no idea on the petrol.

Next up, how is the idle? Is it lumpy feeling? does it seem to struggle but revs and drives fine? That'll be a failing injector - another quite large bill.

Check the rear wheels after a drive - are they unusually hot? Seized or dragging brake caliper.

'knocking' noises from the suspension - bushes pooped or broken shock absorber and an MOT failure

does the steering feel 'notchy' or appear to have a catch at some point? New steering rack required, these fail often.

and relax....


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 10:18 am 
Karma Queen / Cake Meisterin
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Location: North Yorkshire
legrandefromage wrote:
I see no-one has actually given any practical advice then.

How do you test for a dodgy flywheel? - you have the engine running and you put your foot on the clutch. If you hear an extra 'whirring' noise and feel some vibration, thats the flywheel rattling away. £500 depending on garage.

MK3 Engines are chain driven, you should never need to worry. MK4 (current shape) Diesels are back to belt driven as far as I am aware, no idea on the petrol.

Next up, how is the idle? Is it lumpy feeling? does it seem to struggle but revs and drives fine? That'll be a failing injector - another quite large bill.

Check the rear wheels after a drive - are they unusually hot? Seized or dragging brake caliper.

'knocking' noises from the suspension - bushes pooped or broken shock absorber and an MOT failure

does the steering feel 'notchy' or appear to have a catch at some point? New steering rack required, these fail often.

and relax....



Thanks LGF

Oh and it does come with warranty and even 7 days free insurance

Alison


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 3:46 pm 
BoTY & PoTM Winner
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highlandsflyer wrote:
Depending on how much you are paying, it is well worth getting a vehicle inspection carried out.


Even if you know a mechanic, the dealer is unlikely to allow any old person to give it such a thorough look over and test drive, and is more likely to argue the toss with an individual rather than a report from an accredited source.

I have used the AA a number of times to inspect vehicles prior to purchase, worked for me. :)


Me too. with the opposite effect, sadly.

If the dealer was unlikely to let them look or was to argue points, i would suspect that would be the Que to walk away, Surely.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 4:01 pm 
BoTY & PoTM Winner
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Isaac_AG wrote:
legrandefromage wrote:
I see no-one has actually given any practical advice then.

How do you test for a dodgy flywheel? - you have the engine running and you put your foot on the clutch. If you hear an extra 'whirring' noise and feel some vibration, thats the flywheel rattling away. £500 depending on garage.

MK3 Engines are chain driven, you should never need to worry. MK4 (current shape) Diesels are back to belt driven as far as I am aware, no idea on the petrol.

Next up, how is the idle? Is it lumpy feeling? does it seem to struggle but revs and drives fine? That'll be a failing injector - another quite large bill.

Check the rear wheels after a drive - are they unusually hot? Seized or dragging brake caliper.

'knocking' noises from the suspension - bushes pooped or broken shock absorber and an MOT failure

does the steering feel 'notchy' or appear to have a catch at some point? New steering rack required, these fail often.

and relax....



Thanks LGF

Oh and it does come with warranty and even 7 days free insurance

Alison


Alison, Lgfs advise is sound.

If the car comes with a warranty, legally this has to be a minimum of six months.

FWIW, in a court of Law and trade sale means nothing. The dealer does this for the reasons mentioned above, and to impress upon you there are no come backs. The only secure way a dealer can sell a car with no comebacks at all, is to mark the sales invoice as SCRAP.

If you are unsure about doing or how to do the H.P.I check and the mileage discrepancy check, just let me know, and ill happily do it for you.

I would rather do this then you end up with a car with a dodgy past. All that is required is a reg number and exact mileage, and i can forward the details on to you. It will also enable me to give you a trade and retail price too, which might go some way to you having the right information to get a better deal.

Carl.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 4:10 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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I read the horror stories on t'internet about every single method of doing anything. All I can say is what has worked for me in the past.

Hopefully a decent deal has been done and Alison is sporting what is, in my view, one of the best cars you can buy at the money.

Great for bikes, and that is ultimately the only important thing. :)


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 4:14 pm 
BoTY & PoTM Winner
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highlandsflyer wrote:
I read the horror stories on t'internet about every single method of doing anything. All I can say is what has worked for me in the past.

Hopefully a decent deal has been done and Alison is sporting what is, in my view, one of the best cars you can buy at the money.

Great for bikes, and that is ultimately the only important thing. :)


Well i dont read about it, i see it everyday, 365 days a year (fact)

Hopefully she has taken the advice and got a good car, which was my only reason for posting, not to measure cocks again.... :facepalm:


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 4:42 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Location: The Home Of Mountain Biking, And All Great Things.
I am referring to stories of things going wrong with this and that which do not measure up with my experience, regarding many things not just car buying.

Don't really know why you are bringing cocks into this so hastily.

One thing I would advise anyone buying a car, go and look at forums associated with that car model and general car forums if you need advice.

By all means throw a question on a cycle forum where you trust the members, but don't expect to get the in depth knowledge or advice you would get on a Ford Mondeo forum, for example.

:)


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 10:08 pm 
Karma Queen / Cake Meisterin
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Well I did it, I went out the owner of a broken and on it's last legs Volvo S40 saloon and came home with a Ford Mondeo TDCi estate it drives beautifully and the bodywork is minty mint, god I hope that continues

Alison


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