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PostPosted: Tue Apr 02, 2013 3:34 pm 
retrobike rider
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Well he went to the vets today, and is apparently all in good health apart from his manhood that hasn't arrived correctly so the chop will cost a little bit more. However, he's doing very well he had the first vaccine and we've held off on the chip till the second in 2 weeks. Worming tablets purchased and the first will be in his meal tonight and the flea treatment is on his coat.

5m extending lead purchased for now but he sticks close anyway.

But, he's definitely not house trained yet 2 wees and a poo (inside), I'm getting handy with the bleach and carpet cleaner.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 02, 2013 8:10 pm 
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konatime wrote:
Is that an Irish terrier x russell Bren?


Yup! I'm not normally a small dog fan but this ones a real cutie.

Spike3; while its not a habit you want to get into long term, try putting some paper down near his cage. You may find he was paper trained by the breeder, ours was, it saved a few accidents until the time comes that they can tell you they want to go out. After a month we were reading the cues and no accidents.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 02, 2013 8:20 pm 
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put his poo outside where you want him to go. he will be triggerd by the smell and get the idea pritty quick, let him out after hes eaten, befour you go to bed and first thing in the morning. keep an eye on him if he needs to go hell start circling around and sniffing the ground trying to find somewhere suitable, that's when you need to let him out. hell soon learn to ask to go out


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 02, 2013 8:23 pm 
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remove his water bowl, or keep it empty after 6pm...less chance of him pissing indoors overnight as long as you get him into a routine of one last outside before bedtime


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 02, 2013 11:16 pm 
BoTM Winner / Gold Trader
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konatime wrote:
Once the dogs settled in get yourself a 10ft lead and find a car park, that way you can decide how much lead to allow and begin trainingg the dog to stick close to a bike (by dint of figure of 8's and multiple irregular movements/a collie will soon tipple that not broaching the lead allowance is where the comfort zone is-especially if you marry it to pleasing words and the feed to come straight after). Once a dogs had a run and ready for a nose bag they'll let you feed them by hand (you can correct a snatch with a flick of a finger on it's snozzle), sublimanilly (sp) teaching them your the food master general and collisions of teeth and skin are a big no-no. Drop a thimble full of apple cider vinegar in it's drink every third day and run a raw chicken wing through it every fortnight (germs-stomach). Blanket over cage :wink:


Couple of things I have issues with.

1) You should never hit a dog on it's snout. If you look inside their mouth, the roof is ridged. It's a radiator for the blood flowing into their brains. Dogs don't sweat. They pant to draw air over the ridges in their mouth too cool the flowing blood. Hitting a dog on the snout can damage the blood vessels inside, restricting their ability to cool the blood. If you find it necessary to strike your dog, the hindquarters are pretty tough, and you'll get your point across.

2) Chicken bones splinter and shard more than any other type of bone. I won't give dogs bones, period, but chicken bones are the absolute worst ones to give them.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 02, 2013 11:27 pm 
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Location: The Home Of Mountain Biking, And All Great Things.
And NEVER dress a dog in a clown costume.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 02, 2013 11:48 pm 
retrobike rider
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Currently I wish he'd just work out he's supposed to go for a poo outside :roll:, we seem to have sussed weeing out but not poo's.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 03, 2013 12:57 am 
National & North West AEC
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Beautiful looking dog. We have a 13 month old Parson Russell Terrier and he is brilliant.

With toilet training, a routine can help enormously. Dogs love to have a routine.
Get him used to going outside shortly after eating or when he's just woken up. When he does go then make sure you give plenty of praise and perhaps even a treat to reinforce the behaviour.

It won't take very long to get him into the idea that going outside is a good thing to do, and dogs won't willingly soil any area that they sleep in.

I'd also highly recommend taking any puppy or young dog to training classes with a good trainer. It's great fun for you and your dog and it'll pay dividends when he get's older and he's a well mannered dog who respects and obeys you.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 03, 2013 12:59 am 
National & North West AEC
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highlandsflyer wrote:
And NEVER dress a dog in a clown costume.

Amen to that.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 03, 2013 1:51 am 
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Location: Antwerp, Belgium
FMJ wrote:
1) You should never hit a dog on it's snout. If you look inside their mouth, the roof is ridged. It's a radiator for the blood flowing into their brains. Dogs don't sweat. They pant to draw air over the ridges in their mouth too cool the flowing blood. Hitting a dog on the snout can damage the blood vessels inside, restricting their ability to cool the blood. If you find it necessary to strike your dog, the hindquarters are pretty tough, and you'll get your point across.


Completely agree. Only hit a dog on its snout in an emergency, like when it's attacking you or your family.


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