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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2013 11:37 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Mon Jun 14, 2010 9:06 pm
Posts: 4440
Location: Herts UK
take care with easy-out - if they snap,then you are in a worse position as the material is harder.

what is your location?


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 23, 2013 12:57 am 
Gold Trader
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Joined: Sat Aug 18, 2007 12:28 pm
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Location: The Admiral Benbow
just re read the post, grabits work best if you still have the head :?


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 23, 2013 1:15 am 
Windmilling for a Scotch Egg
Windmilling for a Scotch Egg
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Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2011 10:27 am
Posts: 4840
Location: Huddersfield, West Yorkshire
Just to add, the Marzocchi forks I have taken apart all had really good threadlock on the bolts, which may be hampering your removal efforts. I don't know if there is a way to melt the threadlock first before you try undoing it?


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 23, 2013 1:48 am 
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider
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Joined: Sun May 25, 2008 11:03 am
Posts: 18215
Location: Sunny Glasgow
Pray over it :wink:

What year ,model is it? i may have spare lower legs for the 65mm version z2 :?


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 23, 2013 5:54 am 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Fri Jan 13, 2012 2:28 am
Posts: 1057
Location: Near Gatwick
I can usually remove bolts and not damage threads, I can always helicoil it if need be.

Drilling a hole, if I can't do it on the milling machine, is a lot easier with a small air drill. You start with a very small drill and you can correct the location with a centre punch, you just chip the side of the hole away to move the drill over. The larger the hole gets the less you can correct it's position.

If you going to buy stud extractors[easy outs] the best ones are fluted rather than the spiral left hand thread. The spiral ones work some times but I often find they split the bolt and make it harder to get out, the fluted ones you hammer into the bolt, after drilling a hole, they work more often than the others for me.
If it's likely to be loose sharpen a drill to cut backwards[I know it won't cut very well] then try drilling it out, sometimes fasteners unscrew.

Another very good method is chemical, steel bolts in ali can be burned out in sulphuric acid[battery acid] it leaves the threads lovely and clean[anodised]

I have a gearbox case here that has a snapped stud and someone has drilled off centre. I am going to try soaking it in Alum, it's available in Tecos, can't remember what it's for. I am told a warm solution of Alum dissolves steel, but doesn't do anything to ali?


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 11:18 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Sat Jul 04, 2009 4:41 pm
Posts: 1696
i ve just re read your post
if you remove the brace from the forks you have 3-5mm of thread stuck out
assuming the bolt s steel weld another bolt to the thread that is sticking out an remove it that way


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 12:18 am 
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider
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Joined: Sun May 25, 2008 11:03 am
Posts: 18215
Location: Sunny Glasgow
Also.If theres a bit sticking out then have you tried tightly locking a pair of mole grips onto the stump and attempting to turn that :?


NOTE- To everyone :D

Not everyone has a milling machine or pillar drill or any fixed engineering machine.Most will have a drill and the ability to buy a drill bit of the correct diameter :lol:

The pound shop and the like has little kits of 3-5 different sizes of screw extractor.
Drill a hole if you can in near enough the centre of the stuck bolt.
Chances are you dont own a hardened centre punch so use a wood nail though a masonry nail is better because that is hardened.


Drill about 5mm into the top and then attempt to screw in the extractor.Ive found that they bite in quite quickly and because its a reverse thread the harder you force it in the better as this also forces it to undo.
Ive taken out bolts at the bike station that have been rusted in for a good 30 years[judge from the age of the bikes]
If you own a drill then your outlay should be no more than a fiver for the drill bit and extractor kit



Still waiting to hear which model they are though :?


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 2:13 am 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Fri Jan 13, 2012 2:28 am
Posts: 1057
Location: Near Gatwick
dyna-ti wrote:
NOTE- To everyone :D
Not everyone has a milling machine


They will have to figure a way to do it in the lathe then;-)

If you get stuck and do want to post it to someone let me know..


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2013 8:50 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Tue Aug 25, 2009 5:35 pm
Posts: 280
Location: Germany
Most effective for me is inert gas welding and melding a bigger hexagon head screw on it.
I often tried drilling holes, using special bits, threading bits, turn-out-srews ... etc.

But with a welding machine it makes real fun ;-)

Last Devember I fixed most of my forks with problem screws (broken, rounded etc.) in some hours ;-)
Only 2 M4 where difficult, because they have been cut off inside the hole and I had to cut the brake booster to reach them ;-)


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2013 9:09 pm 
retrobike rider
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Joined: Sun Sep 19, 2010 9:30 pm
Posts: 2705
Location: nuneaton warks
mark ,lets be honest here.you need to take it to danson with his fully equiped workshop and let him sort it before you bugger it up even more


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