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PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 12:54 pm 
Windmilling for a Scotch Egg
Windmilling for a Scotch Egg
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Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2011 10:27 am
Posts: 4840
Location: Huddersfield, West Yorkshire
Why not just fit some additional driving lights? I used to live in the countryside and it was something a few people did to improve visibility.

I don't think you should change your dipped beam brightness as it's not necessary and a potential hazard for other motorists. However the full beam can be a bit lacking especially on 50-60mph roads when there's no one else around. The driving lights reach much further ahead and pierce deep into the gloom while your normal high beam does the sides too but doesn't reach as far forwards. I think they are normally wired in to only come on when you are on full beam but with a master switch on the dash to turn them on or off (say in the summer when you want to put the covers on them as they aren't used much if ever).

But I suppose they don't look cool anymore.....


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 4:33 pm 
Old School Grand Master

Joined: Tue Oct 09, 2007 1:55 pm
Posts: 8202
Location: New Forest, UK
On a related thought, are they any good for a retrofit bike light upgrade over halogens... :?

Clearly some butchering would be needed, but...


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2012 8:09 am 
King of the Skip Monkeys
King of the Skip Monkeys
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Joined: Wed Nov 07, 2007 4:34 pm
Posts: 26146
Location: Moomin Valley
hamster wrote:
On a related thought, are they any good for a retrofit bike light upgrade over halogens... :?

Clearly some butchering would be needed, but...


I've been looking at the bulbs on offer in B&Q for a conversion...


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2012 1:46 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Thu May 08, 2008 4:18 pm
Posts: 2336
djoptix wrote:
Often, on cars which don't come with HIDs as standard, the problem is just crap wiring. The wire is just too thin and/or long once it's been round a loom. The right way to remedy it is to wire in relays by the headlamps, activate them with the original headlamp feed and run a full-fat +12v straight to/from the battery. My Citroen had this problem and the difference with relays is like, well, night and day.


^ this. OP doesn't say what sort of camper it is, but if it's a VW T3 or T4 then the headlights are notoriously poor on account of the wires going all the way from the battery across the van to the headlight switch and fusebox and then back to the lights so you only get 10.5V across the actual bulbs. You can get relay kits for about £30 that just plug in.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2012 2:18 pm 
eBay Outing Master
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Joined: Sat Nov 21, 2009 3:53 pm
Posts: 8000
MikeD wrote:
djoptix wrote:
Often, on cars which don't come with HIDs as standard, the problem is just crap wiring. The wire is just too thin and/or long once it's been round a loom. The right way to remedy it is to wire in relays by the headlamps, activate them with the original headlamp feed and run a full-fat +12v straight to/from the battery. My Citroen had this problem and the difference with relays is like, well, night and day.


^ this. OP doesn't say what sort of camper it is, .


Baron von Trumpen Bottom wrote:
I would be fitting them into a 1999 Iveco van


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2012 2:24 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Thu May 08, 2008 4:18 pm
Posts: 2336
For "OP doesn't say" read "I failed to read" :)

(Relays still a better idea than dodgy aftermarket bulb "upgrades")


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 2:23 pm 
Devout Dirtbag

Joined: Sun Sep 16, 2012 7:03 am
Posts: 117
I have a '97 Mondeo and I had excellent results with the Halford bulb upgrade, they were on offer at the time.

Th light is a lot "whiter" than a standard bulb without being brighter, both are 55watts I believe.
This was a quick and cheap upgrade which is legal and doesn't scare oncoming drivers!


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