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PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 4:28 am 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Tue Feb 24, 2009 2:44 pm
Posts: 2159
Location: Tamaris
gavinda wrote:
What a refreshingly positive and interesting post from SC! I have little real knowledge of what you are talking about, but it's definitely one of the brighter things I've seen you put on here. Great news about the apprenticeship too. Like you say, something to get your silver claws into :D


I am back on the happy pills and this time I am not coming off, as these things don't have the nasty side effects that made me quit the last lot and they have an added bonus, one can get drunk on two pints so quids in, not that I drink much these days these meds seem to kill that desire.




The piston rings, something will fit, I have done it before on an old engine that parts were not available for, a Villiers engine fitted to an Allen scythe, mind it was a four stroke, but a piston is a piston, and I still have my bore grinder, not really meant for enlarging bores, but it has worked before for the fraction of enlargement if it is needed- Bodgit and Leggit Engineering again.

I have 1970's Clinton outboard to do next, then a Suffolk Colt lawn mower then a Villiers driven diaphragm pump then there is a sodding long wheel base series three landrover that needs attention, will have to get a brush cutter to get at that thing. But other stuff that is there that will need attention at some point is a Morris Traveller, an Austin A40 van and a Suzuki GP100


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 2:39 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 11, 2011 11:18 pm
Posts: 733
Location: The FoD.
Raging_Bulls wrote:
dan28 wrote:
if you get stuck with the piston rings you could get sleeves fitted down the bores an use slightly smaller pistons
as you would be using new pistons you would then have a better idea of the oil fuel ratio


True, but putting sleeves and smaller pistons in a 2-stroke engine is a bit more difficult as opposed to a 4-stroke. The latter don't have ports to worry about.
With sleeves you'll either change the port timing or disturb the airflow at the top and bottom of the ports.


You can get the cylinder replated but I suspect a 1950 engine would have a steel cylinder so I rebore would be the best bet.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 6:57 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2008 2:36 pm
Posts: 4007
Location: uk
Hope all goes well at the black smiths.....i worked 5 years in a small foundry sand casting by hand quite often, not the same i know, but hot metal, steam and hammers..... :D


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 6:59 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2011 11:57 pm
Posts: 4074
Location: Antwerp, Belgium
greenstiles wrote:
hot metal, steam and hammers


Sounds like a Manowar song. :lol:


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 10:11 pm 
Old School Grand Master

Joined: Tue Oct 09, 2007 1:55 pm
Posts: 8212
Location: New Forest, UK
My Seagull runs on 10:1, although by re-jetting the carb you can run as thin as 25:1. I would suggest 10 as a starting point; go too thin and you could trash it.


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