Garage roof insulating/general insulation work

Re: Re:

highlandsflyer":22n700wi said:
Looks a well built garage. I would prep insulation panels and run them flat across, leaving an accessible void for storage. Put a number of vents in the panels. The floor looks really good too, I would imagine it has a DPM already in place. Condensation is always an issue in 'unheated spaces'. If you are planning to use the space as a workshop a decent size wood burner would render that a toasty warm environment. You may not want to go back into your house!

I would personally leave as much natural light coming in as possible. If security is the issue then other things can be done.

In fact, if it were my building I would be removing the roof at some point and glazing it entirely!

You can see Brighton in all it's questionable glory, from the Brutish Airways i360, longer than you probably want, should it break down, AGAIN!
 
My_Teenage_Self":26npkpiw said:
Honestly, for the trouble, I'd seriously look at removing the roof panels, and installing a better roof 'system'. Either pre-insulated metal panels, or as HF said, maybe poycarbonate sheet; you can never have enough light in a workshop.

You can remove the roof yourself, bag it up, and get it disposed of by the local council facility for next to nothing; permits, licences etc only apply if you're a company.

If time and help permits, then this is my preferred route. Although also have to afford the new roofing. Some of the wooden rafters look a little old. I would like a new roof ultimately...But that budget is waaaaaaay off in the distant future. For now a cheap 'make do' will suffice
 
Fairy Snuff.

The cheapest option may well be to string up some loft insulation, then board over it.

Roof > fluffy insulation > board.

That's the way I was going to go, but I'd have to add so much woodwork, I might have well re-roof. And I'f I'm re-roofing, I might as well rebuild., so I'm making do for now, and rebuilding 2018.

If condensation is a problem, the best you can do is ventilate the heck out of it.
 
I did this to my garage a couple of years ago. The correct way is to first put a damp proof membrane under the existing roof which isn't difficult or expensive as it sounds, then use Cellotex (not polystyrene) to the same thickness as the roof joists and then line with a Vapor barrier, once this is in place either cover with OSB or Plaster board.
My office is built in this way (I have an 8x8 square box inside a 16x8 prefab concrete garage) with 75mm Celotex all round. It's heated with a 1.5k oil filled rad which is run on medium setting and it stays warm all through winter. The floor is only 25mm Celotex and topped with chipboard flooring, this is the only let down as it doesn't insulate as well so the floor stays cold and I have to wear thermal socks but I was very limited on height so an extra 50mm of Celotex was not doable.
I'm doing the front half of that garage this year in a similar way but because I won't be spending as much time in it the floor will remain bare concrete as it's more store for my disco kit.

Carl.
 
drcarlos":33geoted said:
I did this to my garage a couple of years ago. The correct way is to first put a damp proof membrane under the existing roof which isn't difficult or expensive as it sounds, then use Cellotex (not polystyrene) to the same thickness as the roof joists and then line with a Vapor barrier, once this is in place either cover with OSB or Plaster board.
My office is built in this way (I have an 8x8 square box inside a 16x8 prefab concrete garage) with 75mm Celotex all round. It's heated with a 1.5k oil filled rad which is run on medium setting and it stays warm all through winter. The floor is only 25mm Celotex and topped with chipboard flooring, this is the only let down as it doesn't insulate as well so the floor stays cold and I have to wear thermal socks but I was very limited on height so an extra 50mm of Celotex was not doable.
I'm doing the front half of that garage this year in a similar way but because I won't be spending as much time in it the floor will remain bare concrete as it's more store for my disco kit.

Carl.

Thanks for the info Carl, I did think I'd need some sort of membrane between the roof panels and insulation. My concern is the extra weight added to the rafters but I guess I could add some partition beams to spread the load more couldn't I???
 
twain":m5xucxri said:
drcarlos":m5xucxri said:
I did this to my garage a couple of years ago. The correct way is to first put a damp proof membrane under the existing roof which isn't difficult or expensive as it sounds, then use Cellotex (not polystyrene) to the same thickness as the roof joists and then line with a Vapor barrier, once this is in place either cover with OSB or Plaster board.
My office is built in this way (I have an 8x8 square box inside a 16x8 prefab concrete garage) with 75mm Celotex all round. It's heated with a 1.5k oil filled rad which is run on medium setting and it stays warm all through winter. The floor is only 25mm Celotex and topped with chipboard flooring, this is the only let down as it doesn't insulate as well so the floor stays cold and I have to wear thermal socks but I was very limited on height so an extra 50mm of Celotex was not doable.
I'm doing the front half of that garage this year in a similar way but because I won't be spending as much time in it the floor will remain bare concrete as it's more store for my disco kit.

Carl.

Thanks for the info Carl, I did think I'd need some sort of membrane between the roof panels and insulation. My concern is the extra weight added to the rafters but I guess I could add some partition beams to spread the load more couldn't I???

My idea would be to fit the insulation up against the exist roof, not on the rafters, that way you will retain the storage space above the rafters.
I would fit some timber by bonding it halfway between each existing roof support so you have somewhere to screw the boarding to.

Carl
 
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