97 Dagger elite hardtail rebuild FINISHED

http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=90489 Here is my previous post pre re build.

Frame: Easton elite 7005 taperwall tubes and stays, NO chainstay brace. PC'ed alien metallic silver with clear. Hand made in california

Fork: White bros SC-90 fork retrofitted with Englund total air cartridges 100 mm travel.

Wheels: Mavic crossmax. SUP ceramic, 28 hole radially laced front, 32 hole radial non drive side/2 cross driveside. Mavic hubs dbl butted spokes.

Crankset: Race face forged with REAL nickel plated rings (machined ramps) no pins or bolts 24/46/48 Race Face taper lock Ti bottom bracket, Wipperman nickel plated chain.

Componentry: XTR 12/32 cassette (Ti in the three big rings) XT front derailleur, XT rear. Chirs King 1 1/8 no threadset, XTR levers, XTR V brakes, SRAM X-ray 800 gripshifters, Profile design carbon riser bar, ODI Yeti lock on shorty grips, ATI clear twist section, profile design stubbly bar ends. Rithcey adjustable 120 mm stem, Thomson elite 26.8 seatpost, WTB Rocket V Ti saddle, Time Atac clipless pedals, Salsa quik release seat. Rear v brake fitted with Caramba rollmajig thingy, and an Avid rollmajig on the rear derailleur. Weighs in at just under 19 lbs and was built up as a state of the art NORBA CC racer in 97

Tires: Panaracer Smoke/ Dart combo 2.2 front 2.1 rear (stans tubeless)

This rebuild is true to the time period. Any parts that are not original are new replacements of the old ones.

I like where that's heading Bar ends and risers, though? Brave ;-)

Also I think your brake levers have slipped ;-)

Indeed... well, they are barely barends ? does that count. I confess rhe original bar was a flat carbon bar, and the new riser bar is a low riser... do I get a pass? The levers look like they have slipped because I adjusted the bar and forgot to re position the brake levers before taking the pics.... DOH !

I could have outfitted this bike with any components I wanted as I worked in a shoppe at the time and built it up from a frame. I decided when orginally built to stay away fromt the bling Ringle, Zooka bling bling in favor of a more industrial look. I wanted the strongest, lightest components I could afford .... at proform prices of course This bike climbs like a mountain goat and is a telepathic singletrak ripper. I am so happy to have her back on the dirt.... now to get her really dirty.... fun fun

Great to see it finished Dave!!

Nice subtle build (unlike my Dagger ) and stupid light! Bet it rips!!

but agree with ditching the barends, and the stem otherwise thats looking hardcore

I love it but have to echo changing the stem and getting rid of the bar-ends thing again, sorry

How are the forks handling?

I really, really love that bike Dave.

Pleeease lose the bars and stem. You will have the style police after you.



Chaser.

I like the bar-ends and risers. In this case the rise is small and the bar-ends are small, seems to work. What's not to like?

Gentlemen. I appreciate your comments. I did confess earlier that the orignal stem was as easton answer 0 rise 130 ext stem with a flat carbon bar. I put the Ritchey stem on this build because I wanted to experiment with the stem height; once I am setteld there, I would like to go back to a Thomson stem, but they are available only in a zero rise, and a ten degree rise... So, a part of me agrees with the comments about losing the stem and the bar/barends ( I loves my barends when climbing) I still have reservations about carbon bars in general as carbon fails catastrophically where aluminium does not... it bends first.

Thanks for the props boys ! Your comments are welcome.. I am relatively new to retrobike, but i consistently see bikes from my youth that I wished I had owned back in the day.
I must also again thank Beep Beep and Gil M for their help with this project. I could not have made it happen without them. Cheers fellow retrobikers!!

Hey Lee. I forgot to answer your query about the white bros fork. It is a very stiff sucker. White bros was making 31.8 stanchions before anyone so no worries there. The Englund air cartridges work quite well, but you have no on the fly adjustments for compression/rebound, but once you get the appropriate comp/rebound bits installed and all dialed in its add air and go ride. For this application of a CC singlletracker it works well.

You can adjust rebound and compression through changing and inner bits ( easy) and air spring pressure. These forks were ahead of their time IMHO>>> and the air cartridges made them lighter and more responsive plus 10m more travel !