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 Post subject: 1997 GT LTS 2000
PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 11:01 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 11:14 pm
Posts: 395
Location: Jersey, Channel Islands.
Hi all. This is my first post so please treat me gently!

Just thought that I would introduce myself a post some pics of my old GT LTS 2000 circa 1997. I bought the bike at a time when me and the missus didn't have kids and used and abused it (the bike that is!!!!) for about five years.

Then in 2002 my better half went and got herself pregnant so the poor GT got consigned to the garage. My intention was to get the bike up and running again when my daughter went to full time nursery. But, sod's law, she went and did it again in 2006 so poor old LTS was left forgotten and unloved hanging in my slightly damp garage :cry:

Now that my son is going to nursery in September this year I will have time on my hands to ride again so I have dug her out and have decided to restore her. What surprised me is the condition in which I left her for all that time! Really bad with broken spokes, flat tyres and a lot beyond repair! The pics make her look quite good. There is little that I really want to keep apart from the frame and the rear triangle bits.

I changed much of the original bike adding a XT rear mech, Azonic bar, XT V-Brakes, Bontrager saddle etc. Now, and this may disappoint the purists, I want to bring the GT a bit more up to date with a more current spec.

So, I am full of questions and itching to get back on her again. I hope you lot can help - more to follow.

Cheers, Steve.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 11:05 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Joined: Tue Nov 03, 2009 10:00 pm
Posts: 5611
Location: Newcastle Upon Tyne
:wink: nice example, welcome to the mad house.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 2:02 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 11:14 pm
Posts: 395
Location: Jersey, Channel Islands.
LTS all stripped down. Old suspension bushes and fixings binned and rear alloy bits given a check over and polish.

Now crunch time! Do I keep the original paint work even though it has loads of scratches and scuffs or do I go down the re-spray/powdercoat route? I've got to be honest and say that i'm quite attached to the red GT scheme, what do you think?


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frame (5).JPG
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frame (4).JPG
frame (4).JPG [ 237.64 KiB | Viewed 2530 times ]
frame (1).JPG
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frame.jpg
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 2:12 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Joined: Thu Jul 09, 2009 2:12 pm
Posts: 3048
Location: Yateley, Hants.
Fresh powder coat in red with some repro decals from gil_m on here. The more I see of these GT's the more I lke them.

Carl.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 2:19 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 11:14 pm
Posts: 395
Location: Jersey, Channel Islands.
Cheers Carl.

I was thinking of black PC with black/silver stickers if possible but red might be OK! There is a PC place over here in Jersey but i've yet to here if they are good on MTB frames. Before I give them a call does anyone know a rough price guide for powder coating?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 11:57 pm 
Dirt Disciple
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Joined: Thu Feb 11, 2010 9:40 pm
Posts: 37
Location: Hood River Oregon
Hiya, a basic powdercoat in simple or metallic colors should run you no more than $ 150.00 american. depending on how elaborate you want to get the sky is the limit. I would make sure you find a PC'er who has experience with bike frames... particularly aluminum ones as they're are issues with the type of media used to strip the old finish. Sand blasting can harden the metal and weaken the frame strength.. :x bery bad.

Back in the mid nineties at Mammoth mountan, I took a picture of Toby Henderson, who was riding for GT at the bottom of the kamikaze downhill. He had broken his LTS frame right above the top tube at the seatpost junction... :o I am not saying that this will happen to yours, but back in the day these GT's were the bomb. Looking forward to seeing the finished project

Also, I don't believe it came stock with a dual crown fork? The fork you have mounted has changed the original geometry of the frameset as it was designed... just an observation, but it definately changes the way the designers meant the bike to handle. If it is original then I am full of s$$$...but I am curious


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2010 10:39 am 
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Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 11:14 pm
Posts: 395
Location: Jersey, Channel Islands.
Thanks for that.

I have seen some concern voiced elsewhere about powder coating and some alloy frames. Some have linked the 'cooking' process after the initial coating with possible weld weakening resulting in fractures. Others have dismissed the theory. Some have said that inexperienced PC applicators have heated the bike frames for too long, at too high a temp resulting in damage!

Would a chemical strip (seen used elsewhere on these forums) be OK? I can't foresee any problems but maybe someone could help?

The forks did come as standard on my bike and don't know if the geometry is very different from single crown forks of the period. Se pics below of them off the bike. They did have rubber boots fitted but they perished so had to be removed.

Incidentally, if anyone wants the Judy XL's for spares/repairs then drop me a line and you can have them for a few quid. As can be seen from the photos, they have seen better days with some corrosion, dents, paint/sticker damage etc. They still function but would need checking over by someone with experience!

Cheers, Steve.


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fork#3.JPG
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fork#1.JPG
fork#1.JPG [ 211.88 KiB | Viewed 2463 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2010 1:08 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Mon Feb 01, 2010 10:36 pm
Posts: 61
The bike is actually a 1998 model, just in case you were interested.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2010 3:33 pm 
Dirt Disciple
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Joined: Thu Feb 11, 2010 9:40 pm
Posts: 37
Location: Hood River Oregon
Stevo... All the info you need about caveats regarding powderoating aluminium frames is available on the intenets. I am no expert on the subject by any stretch. I have a feeling there are some experts on this site. I would just suggest doing your homework when it comes to your PC'er. Paint stripper and walnut shell media to strip the finish are the safest, and will not anneal the metal.

The guidelines for PC'ing/curing 6000 or 7000 series tubesets are different.. talk to a qualified PC'er but do your homework first.. Good luck with your project. :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2010 4:04 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 11:14 pm
Posts: 395
Location: Jersey, Channel Islands.
Thanks Lacuna, you are probably right! I was sure I bought it in '97 :? In that case can someone move this thread over to the 98 bike forum?

The mind has become foggy with the passage of time.

The frame is 7000 series alu. So a tin of paint stripper is on the cards then!


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