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PostPosted: Fri May 29, 2009 11:30 pm 
Devout Dirtbag

Joined: Tue May 12, 2009 3:09 am
Posts: 126
Location: Michigan USA
Hi Klunker fans

I picked this up off of craigslist. It's (I think) a 1938 Fleet (Schwinn) C Model based off the serial number even though the crank date stamp is 36. As many know, old Schwinns can't be dated definativly because the records were lost.

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Here are the parts I've accumulated so far:


6061 Answer Alumilite BMX Handlebars: A little shop wear but not bad. Around a 3-3/4" rise and 28" wide.

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Headbadge:
Nice patina. The guy had a NOS one too, but wanted $100! I like this one better anyway.

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Axle Adjusting Screws

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Campy Seat Post Binder

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NOS Tioga BMX bottom bracket

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NOS Shimano BMX Front Hub

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SR/Sakae Apex Cranks. ca 1980, but they're an SR knock off of the Stronglight 99 that came out earlier in the '70's... 170mm x 48T, 86 BCD. I have a prosthetic right leg (below knee) and probably can't spin a big 180mm T.A. anyway, plus the price was right on this SR.

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VP Bat Wingz Pedals: old stuff from the basement

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Ashtabula Motomag stem
for cheap. A little Eastwood Zinc Phosphate spray paint, and it will be stylin'. The $50-$80 for a decent one on the bay is out of hand.

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NOS Schwinn ballooner fork


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NOS Ukai wheel set. The front was built with the hub above and the rear was already laced back in the 80's with a Suntour coaster hub.

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1983 Brooks B72. I really wanted the chrome instead of the newer black style.

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Next plans

- Fit the BB, fork and truss rods to make sure everything fits

- Have my buddy machine up a long 6061 billet seat post and have it clear anodized

- Get my truss rods chromed to look like these:

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- Prep for a paint job like this but with blue pin stripes to coordinate with the Ukais

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Last edited by J_Westy on Fri Jun 19, 2009 2:40 am, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 7:20 am 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
retrobike rider / Gold Trader

Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2007 9:05 pm
Posts: 9245
Thats going to be sweet! Frame looks same as mine it with the taller seat tube, mine could have broken off and been cut down like the 33-34 models with the QR through the seat stays?? Even the guys on the Schwinn forums were flumoxed by it. Yours looks to be in great shape- do you not fancy a patina build?
just a few thoughts... Have you checked out the BB axle width yet? Can be a problem as the BMX kit you have tend to be the unpopular left overs that are two wide- this I found the hard way. You need something around 118mm if I remember rightly (will check)

What are your plans for the front brakes? Schwinn did an accessory bolt on canti mount kit, but getting them can be tricky. Dia Compe seem to work better than Mafac if you take this route.

This going to be one cool build and if there was any justice we would be seeing more Klunker builds over here on RetroBike. I'm having a wail of a time riding mine everywhere from the Coffee shop to the trail centres, you'll be suprised how well they ride!

Let the revolution begin.

Si


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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 9:06 am 
Gold Trader / PoTM Winner / RB Rider
Gold Trader / PoTM Winner / RB Rider
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Joined: Thu Apr 10, 2008 4:16 pm
Posts: 9609
Location: brigg, home of the gypsies
Looks great already and i'm sure it'll be even better when finished.just a quick question, are the truss bars on the forks structural or decorative?


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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 9:08 am 
MacModerator
MacModerator
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Joined: Fri Jul 14, 2006 8:59 pm
Posts: 20771
Location: Sol Kitts
Those UKAI's look awesome.


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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 9:12 am 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Tue Jul 17, 2007 5:13 pm
Posts: 8184
Location: Tredavoe, Cornwall
WOW!! Thats looking sweet.

I do need to get my ass into gear and start a classic cruiser build this year.
Although i've been saying that for a few years now. :roll:


Al. :D


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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 9:22 am 
East Midlands AEC
East Midlands AEC
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Joined: Thu Oct 05, 2006 7:45 pm
Posts: 15067
Location: Derby, UK
I'd love to build up a Klunker - but just wouldn't know where to start.


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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 9:39 am 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Tue Jul 17, 2007 5:13 pm
Posts: 8184
Location: Tredavoe, Cornwall
The best place to start would be to ask for guidance from Dr S and J_westy.

Them guys got da eye!! Then if you ask all the tough questions, i can eves drop so i don't look like a plonker!!



Al, Thinkin' is what other people do best!! :roll:


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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 12:31 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
retrobike rider / Gold Trader

Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2007 9:05 pm
Posts: 9245
orange71 wrote:
I'd love to build up a Klunker - but just wouldn't know where to start.


eBay will provide!

First port of call needs to be Alan Bond's excellent site- have a look at his builds and decide on a spec and get hunting!

I'm no expert but if I can help just ask. Start by getting a frame and work from there. The early style Bomber is probably the easiest to build up as they used lots of stock Schwinn parts like the forks,cranks,bars etc. Thereis much more work building a hybrid like mine as you have to add canti mounts and the only stock Schwinn item is the frame (which needs mods)

My next build will be the simpler Bomber style with original paint and plenty of rust!


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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 2:15 pm 
Devout Dirtbag

Joined: Tue May 12, 2009 3:09 am
Posts: 126
Location: Michigan USA
Dr S wrote:
Thats going to be sweet! Frame looks same as mine it with the taller seat tube, mine could have broken off and been cut down like the 33-34 models with the QR through the seat stays?? Even the guys on the Schwinn forums were flumoxed by it. Yours looks to be in great shape- do you not fancy a patina build?
just a few thoughts... Have you checked out the BB axle width yet? Can be a problem as the BMX kit you have tend to be the unpopular left overs that are two wide- this I found the hard way. You need something around 118mm if I remember rightly (will check)

What are your plans for the front brakes? Schwinn did an accessory bolt on canti mount kit, but getting them can be tricky. Dia Compe seem to work better than Mafac if you take this route.

This going to be one cool build and if there was any justice we would be seeing more Klunker builds over here on RetroBike. I'm having a wail of a time riding mine everywhere from the Coffee shop to the trail centres, you'll be suprised how well they ride!

Let the revolution begin.

Si


I like the idea of a patina build, but the red frame and blue wheels would hurt my eyes.

No -- haven't fitted the BB yet -- don't have the frame at the moment because a buddy is fixing one of the fender holes that was torn open a bit. Thanks for checking on yours. I'm also hoping my cranks with the Japanese taper will go on a bit further than your French taper.

No front brakes for now. I'm going single-speed coaster brake. Michigan hills are short and it will serve mostly town duty anyway.

I had thought you did the seat tube work yourself! Makes your frame all the more interesting.

lewis1641 wrote:
Looks great already and i'm sure it'll be even better when finished.just a quick question, are the truss bars on the forks structural or decorative?


I understand they are largely decorative, but every bit probably counts on these old forks. I just like the look. Although the tubular BMX style like Dr. S is equally cool in my opinion.

I chose a postwar forged fork for more strength and haven't decided if I'm going to add a locating bracket for the truss rods at the bottom of the steerer tube or not... right now, thinking not.

kaiser wrote:
Those UKAI's look awesome.


Thanks! Definitely not going let rim brakes anywhere near these!

orange71 wrote:
I'd love to build up a Klunker - but just wouldn't know where to start.


Check out:

http://clunkers.net/

http://www.sonic.net/~ckelly/Seekay/mtbwelcome.htm

Then begin your quest for parts!


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PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2009 4:09 am 
Devout Dirtbag

Joined: Tue May 12, 2009 3:09 am
Posts: 126
Location: Michigan USA
J_Westy wrote:
Next plans

- Fit the BB, fork and truss rods to make sure everything fits


Fork and truss rods fit ok. Just need to cut down the steerer tube 1/4"

But the BB doesn't fit at all.

Dr. S, what did you use?

For now I'm thinking:

TruVativ American-to-Euro Conversion kit - $22

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IRD 68 x 103 mm Bottom Bracket BB102 - $30:

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