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PostPosted: Wed Dec 10, 2008 1:38 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Fri Sep 19, 2008 4:37 pm
Posts: 5198
Location: North West
Thanks for all the encouraging comments :D

Ref the contacts – 15 years of engineering and messing around with cars tends to help :D Luckily I have managed to find most of what I need (i.e. cant do myself) locally and at reasonable cost / good quality. Through my job I also have access to a basic engineering workshop (lathe, miller, press, guillotine, folder etc) so I tend to stay on a lot after work (and living local to my workplace) I can nip in at strange hours / weekends etc but unfortunately I don’t get paid for overtime :lol: I would have really struggled with my hobbies without that access - or they would have cost me a lot more :(

I was hoping to have the frame coated by now so I could build it up over the crimbo period but the girl friends company has just closed her facility :( (announcement on the 3rd – production finishes on the 19th :shock: ) so I will have to watch the pennies for while. The plan will be to get Christmas out of the way and then send it early January – I guess ‘photo’ updates will be a bit scarce until then …

WD :D


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 10, 2008 1:53 pm 
BoTM Winner
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Joined: Sat Apr 19, 2008 1:05 pm
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Location: Sunny Southport
fantastic work so far, looking forward to your update in the new year. :D


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2009 1:34 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Fri Sep 19, 2008 4:37 pm
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Location: North West
Hi everyone,

Happy new year to you all :D

Well the wallet survived Christmas without to much of a battering so the project is back on the move 8)

I managed to pick up some pedals (X-pedo’s) and shoes (MT40’s) quite cheaply so I now have everything required with the exception of :

• A powder coated frame.
• Re-Anodizing (should be sent next week)
• Re-Plating (should be sent next week)

I had been looking around for a powder coaters that specialized / had experience of bike frames and ended up talking to Dale Windridge of Windridge coatings ( http://www.windridge.co.uk/content.php/410 ). They seem a very helpful / professional / experienced setup so I have made the decision to send the frame to them.

Hopefully this should be sent by the end of the week but that depends on me getting it packed and to the couriers – watch this space (but don’t hold your breath) … :oops: :lol:

The color scheme will be :

• Frame : RAL7016 – Anthracite Grey – Satin
• Fork : RAL9005 – Jet Black – Full gloss

So it should be in-keeping with my ‘stealth’ build color scheme whilst retaining similar colors to what Marin intended. I am also going to get them to do the wax coating on the inside to protect it from internal corrosion.

WD :D


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2009 5:05 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Fri Sep 19, 2008 4:37 pm
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Location: North West
Having a last look over the frame before I pack it, my obsession with the Dremel got the better of me (again :oops: :lol: ) and the chain stay bridge just had to go :

Image

Image

I had been thinking of getting rid of it for a while as they are only really useful for mud guards (which won’t be being fitted) and I thought it would help with the ‘clean’ deluged image and without it will be easier to powder coat and provide one less dirt / water trap.

I also made some load bearing washers for the crank bolts but the combination of these, the x-lite caps, SRP bolts and the shallow holes on the Ritchey crank made the dust covers slightly proud :? The washers and bolts got modified to solve the issue :

Image

WD :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2009 5:09 pm 
98+ BoTM | BoTM | Gold | Rider
98+ BoTM | BoTM | Gold | Rider
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Joined: Thu Mar 23, 2006 12:48 am
Posts: 6652
Location: Kingdom of Ringlé
This build needs an award category to itself.. Project Of The Year!

Good idea on the chainstay bridge - very Orange Clockwork 8)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 8:24 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Fri Nov 28, 2008 1:46 am
Posts: 39
You don't think the chainstay bridge does anything for rigidity then?


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 12:41 pm 
Retro Guru
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Location: North West
REtrouble wrote:
You don't think the chain stay bridge does anything for rigidity then?


I hope not … :lol: :lol:

My completely uneducated opinion (Guess :oops: :lol: ) is that it will do absolutely nowt for a vertical loading on the frame (with no wheel resistance both chain stays will be in even tension and both seat stays in even compression) and due to its closeness to the bb shell nowt / virtually nowt in a horizontal loading (how much twist would the frame have to see before there was appreciable amount of movement in the bridge area ?). Open for comments on the above and I am quite prepared to be corrected / shot down in flames … :lol:

What planted the seed was my mums orange from the same era – steel frame and no bridge. The final decision was made when looking at my friends steel Cotic – that has half a bridge to allow the fitment of a mud guard but it doesn’t connect the stays providing zero bracing.

Bear in mind that this bike wont be seeing the top of any mountains again (its going on slicks) so it should have quite an easy life – I have my eye on my brothers 92ish 15.5” U braked Rock Hopper if I get that urge (perhaps the next project ? :wink: …)

Anyhow, it’s to late to worry about it now as A) the bridge has gone and B) the frame has gone :

Image

Sent via courier last night to Windridge :D (Hopefully a 8) on it's return ...)

WD :D


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 1:59 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Thu Dec 25, 2008 10:53 pm
Posts: 392
Neil G wrote:
Great project, amazing attention to detail with the parts :D


yes, great projetc, i hope your passion will be rewarded


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 1:38 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Fri Sep 19, 2008 4:37 pm
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Location: North West
Just a quick update as I stayed on at work last night and managed to sort the front derailleur. Like the brake levers it had had been ‘drilled’ (see photo further up this thread) so it has now been ‘slotted’ so it looks a bit nicer :

Image

Image

De-burred and polished up :

Image

I have also shortened and drilled (1.5mm) a SS M5 button head to use as the bottom bracket cable guide securing bolt - hopefully to provide some ventilation / drainage for condensation / water :

Image

Do you think this is a good (or crap :lol: ) idea ?

Cant wait to get the frame back from the coaters :D

Cheers,

WD :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 3:27 pm 
Old School Hero
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Joined: Thu Feb 21, 2008 10:04 pm
Posts: 192
Location: Up North
Drain plug is a great idea and will now copy you and do it myself :lol:
Keep up the good work. This is my favorite thread on here. totally cool man


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