Claud Butler Pagan

https://drive.google.Hi all

Picked this for penny's.
Hi all

[url] [url=https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6yW9ZDtaZhmdnlTXzg0Nnhhb1U/view?usp=drivesdk/url]https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6yW9Z ... ivesdk/url[/url]]

Reynolds 500 frame,biopace cranks and diablo hubs I have found out so far.

A lot of cleaning to do and a ton of electrical tape to get rid of.

That mudguard is god awful as well.

It has bontrager skinny tyres with plenty of tread still on them.

Going to use this to commute with.

Only question I have is the rest dropout has two holes supposedly for a rack and mudguard but I don't see the usual holes on the seat stays to attach a rack? Do I need a specific rack to fit??

Thanks

Re:

Odd that there aren't any, however, you can find some racks that fit the seat stay bridge, like this:



Alternatively, you could use some "P" clips to fit a standard rack: https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/mudguards/1 ... -per-pair/

Thanks

There appears to be two small holes on the seat stays that where covered with electrical tape,I'm not sure if they are for a rack or not but anyways I'll probably just get the p clips.

What's the basic maintenance list for an oldy like this?? I'm trying to keep costs down as much as possible,in the past IV been a bit gung ho and stripped everything off and started from scratch.

This is going to be a commuter,IV already got a lock,will need to buy lights and a rack, would appreciate any suggestions on the last two.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6yW9Z ... p=drivesdk

Thanks

Any ideas on the best thing to do with small rust spots.

This in the BB.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6yW9Z ... p=drivesdk

Re:

I'm very pleased with my Madison rack: https://www.tredz.co.uk/.M-Part-Summit- ... _45245.htm, it's really sturdy.

There are lots of excellent lights available now, here's a comparison of some front lights: http://road.cc/content/buyers-guide/212 ... son-engine. Rechargeable is great for powerful front lights, not so important for rear lights where a set of AA alkaline batteries will last absolutely ages anyway.

If you're planning on riding year round, I'd suggest a set of full mudguards too. SKS are probably the best known, they can be a faff to fit, but once they're on they pretty much last forever: https://www.tredz.co.uk/.SKS-Chromoplas ... _15491.htm

With regards maintenance/servicing, the bike may not have been touched in years, so I'd strip and reassemble, new grease in all the bearings, replace the brake and gear cables, maybe new brake blocks, they sometimes go hard after many years and aren't as effective as new ones.

Here's an article about chain wear/replacement: http://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/arti ... ned-46015/, basically if you fit a new chain on worn cassettes and chainrings the new chain will wear quicker to fit the old worn parts and will sometimes "skip" as it doesn't sit fully in the old worn teeth.

I don't know how much you know about bicycle mechanics, you may find this useful: http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help, or this one: http://www.madegood.org/

You may already have plenty of mechanics tools, but there are some bike specific tools you may need too if you plan on maintaining the bike yourself. If you don't have anything, it may be cheaper to buy them a set, something like this: https://www.tredz.co.uk/.Bike-Hand-Bicy ... _41164.htm

Wow awesome post loads of cracking info there. Thanks

Iv actually learned how to fix bikes via YouTube! for the most part anyway,I refer to Sheldon Brown for some info on the older bikes.

So a maintenance list would be

Grease/replace bearings
New gear cable
New brake cable
New brake blocks

Shouldn't cost the earth if I do the work myself.

Just remembered I had mudguards lying around from an old road bike but when I tried it the screws are too big at the forks and the rear drop out,any idea what size these holes might be? Is there a way to measure them? Would save me a bunch if could get them to fit.
Will read through the articles you provided..

I have one last question,honest!

The crank seems to me to be sitting quite close to the frame,the previous owner even seems to have put electrical tape there to prevent it rubbing,it doesn't seem right,has it maybe had a knock it could the bottom bracket be the cause??

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6yW9Z ... p=drivesdk

My crank remover won't screw in to let me get at that bottom bracket so I might have go to the LBS and seek their advice.

What photo hosting services are you guys using since photobucket is no longer used.

Thanks

Well managed to get the cranks off,I forgot to take the 14mm nut out that's why I couldn't get my crank remover to fit, DOH!

Got the non drive side bottom bracket out and she was bogging,not sure if the drive side needs to be removed or not??

I tried to clean the bearings up but I might just get a new set.

There was also a small rubber ring that popped out when I cleaned out the bottom bracket shell,not seen this before,does this sit on the spindle??

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6yW9Z ... p=drivesdk

I know I probably shouldn't but I'm tempted to leave the brakes alone,they seem to work great and the blocks look unused. I might wait till she is fully built and they see how they perform and make a decision then.

Tried to get the stem out to grease it,managed to get the Allen bolt loosened but it won't budge,do I need to undo another but to get it out??

Thanks

Re:

The crank seems to me to be sitting quite close to the frame,the previous owner even seems to have put electrical tape there to prevent it rubbing,it doesn't seem right,has it maybe had a knock it could the bottom bracket be the cause??

Click to expand...

Looking at the condition of the bottom bracket, I'd be inclined to replace it. Modern cartridge style bottom brackets are much better than those old adjustable ones: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shim ... -prod71369. They last for ages and there's no faffing around with pin spanners and lock rings trying to get them adjusted just right.

Bottom brackets come in different shell widths and spindle lengths, it's possible that the bottom bracket that was fitted has a slightly shorter spindle than would be ideal. I'm not sure which crank set you have, It looks like a Shimano, so the model number should be stamped into the back of the crank arms and good old Sheldon has a list of spindle lengths suitable for different cranks: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html. If you can't find your crank in the list, measure the old one across the flats, length D in this diagram:



As yours is quite tight on the drive side, if you can't get an exact match, go up to the nearest longer one. The other measurements, 68 or 73 is the bottom bracket shell width, 68 is the most common:



If you think the brake blocks and the cables are OK, just lubricate the cables, move the outer out of the way and run some grease along the inner cable. You can do it without disconnecting the cables by pulling the outer out of the cable stops on the frame:

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ApDg10eJXbg[/youtube]

To remove a quill stem, undo the bolt 3 or 4 turns, then tap the bolt with a small hammer to release the wedge at the bottom. This should free the stem, undo the bolt a few more turns and you should be able to remove the stem completely.

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-iBe1j-cxH4[/youtube]

If you're unlucky, the stem or the wedge gets corroded and the whole lot gets really stuck. As a general rule, grease threads, seat posts, handlebar stems, etc. when you assemble them to stop them corroding and seizing, it will make disassembly and maintenance much easier in the future.

I think mudguard eye bolts are typically M4. You can find bolts on Ebay, I always buy stainless, they stay looking smart and don't corrode and get stuck, I still grease the threads though: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4mm-M4-A2-STA ... 76c5243c13

This is what's stampeding the cranks

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6yW9Z ... p=drivesdk

Struggling to understand Sheldon's page.

Did find a a forum post on retro bike and the person fitted un55 122 mm so I'm not sure if that would fit mine or not?

I was going to refurbish the old BB but as it's going to be a Commuter I'll take your advice and for the more modern BB.

I'll respond to your other points soon.