Raleigh Dynatech MT4 titanium build

ultrazenith

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After a long time at the planning and parts collecting stages, I have now completed build version 1 of my Raleigh Dynatech MT4.

The frame and forks are identical in construction to the Dynatech Ogre, my first and longest standing unicorn, so this is a pretty special build for me. The idea was to build something light, with titanium components ,purple bits and a period correct groupset where possible. And of course, because space is limited at home I wanted to build something I will want to ride, as I don't have space for dead weight here.

I also tried to include some cool components I've wanted to use in a build for some time, like the titanium Girvin Flexstem and my snowflake front wheel.

Spec sheet:

Frame: Raleigh Dynatech MT4
bonded Ti (main tubes and chainstays)
Reynolds Mang-Moly 531 steel (seat stays)
aluminium (head tube).

Fork: Reynolds 531 Direct Drive fork.

Headset: Ritchey Logic

Stem/bar: Girvin titanium stem and bar combo

Seat post: USE 420 mm

Saddle: modern Selle Italia with steel rails

Brake levers: Dia Compe SS5

Brake cantilevers: Dia Compe 987

Drivetrain:
Deore LX RD-M550 rear derailleur
Deore LX FD-M550 front derailleur 28.6, bottom pull
Deore LX FC-M550 chainset SG rings
Deore LX PD-M550 pedals
Deore MT62 thumbshifters
Deore LX HG70 11-28 8 speed cassette
Purple cog hog

Front wheel: Deore LX hub HB-M560 with Ti axle, PG stainless steel spokes (snowflake), brass nipples, Araya TM820 rim

Rear wheel: Deore LX hub FH-M570, double butted stainless steel spokes, Weinmann Zac 19 rim

Skewers: modern Hope steel QR purple

Tyres: Panaracer XC Fire Pro 1.8

Tubes: Butyl

Weight including pedals: 22.5 lb (+/-0.5 lb)


Photos:


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:cool: Nice, i always liked these black MT4's, i think they did a blue one as well, i even have a pair of forks sat waiting if ever one in my size comes along :)

Mark
 
Thanks for the feedback, guys.

I wanted to maximise the purple look, so I set the post quite high. But at 6'3" I do need a pretty long set post to ride even the largest of Dynatechs. I'll probably just use a black kalloy post for everyday riding, though ;) If I like the way it rides, and if I can deal with the low front end, I'll make a few select upgrades.
 
Re:

Hey Andy it's really great to see this, nice job! :)
The Ti flexstem's a perfect choice, Dyna tech's can carry it off much better than most I reckon.

It's a little bit emotional seeing her up and running to be honest. It might have been a 'false start' and never used, but this frame (built up), was essentially my first MTB, and sat forlornly in the bedroom for 22 years with me feeling so guilty for not using it.

Go thrash the wheels off it mate!
 
Hi Ben, glad you like it. I took your advice and scrapped the idea of using the yellow flexstem, and I'm glad because the naked ti is much more subtle and fits well with the ti frame. Knowing the story of this frame, I wanted to try to do it justice to the extent that my budget allowed, but I'll leave it to you to say more about the frame's back story if it's something you'd be OK with.

My own part of the story is that a year or two go I posted a wanted ad for large Dynatech frames, and Ben answered with the offer to sell his NOS MT4 frameset. It took me a while to raise the funds and figure out how to smuggle it in, but eventually I got my hands on this incredible frameset, plus some NOS LX pedals and chainset. I'm immensely grateful to Ben for selling this to me! I never imagined i would ever find my unicorn in NOS condition and in my size.

I have high hopes for this bike, but I must admit it is daunting to think of this NOS and rare frame getting dirty or scratched!

Originally I planned to use a mint 93 LX groupset with Zoom stem, but I realised the understated frame was ripe for some ano goodness, so instead I decided to start accumulating purple parts and got a snowflake wheel built, and was also lucky enough to get a ti flexstem bar combo. I also have a one piece rigid ti stem bar combo just in case i feel like going full rigid.

It'sn now almost ready to ride, and just needs me to sort out the brakes (I broke part of the pad holding assembly when adjusting pad toe in).
 
I thought I'd add a little update to this thread.

After the initial build pictured above, I took the MT4 out for a test run in my nearest forest to do a shakedown ride. On the road it felt incredible, very light, responsive, and quick to accelerate. However, pretty much as soon as I got it onto dirt I had a little crash riding uphill when I lost control riding one handed. Luckily no damage to the bike or me, but a sign that the handlebars are too narrow and the stem too long for me (which is a shame because they look ****ing awesome. The low profile Dia Compe cantilever were impossible to set up to my liking on the rear, apparently due to the unusually large separation between the two rear bosses.

To make it more practical, I've made the following changes:

- switched to a yellow Flexstem and added a 680 mm handlebar.
- switched to a black Kalloy Uno seat post (the NOS USE was too nice to use really)
- replaced the 1.8 XC Fires with 2.35 Maxxis Ignitor (f) and 2.45 Maxxis Larsen TT (r). This frame has incredible clearance on the rear!
- fitted Suntour XC Self Energising rear cantilevers and MT62 high profile cantilevers on the front.

With this new set-up, I used the MT4 for my first ever try at a bit of bike-packing on the Porto to Santiago pilgrimage route, in mid December. Over the 250 km route of back roads and dirt tracks, this was an excellent choice of bike, and I've come to think of it as my 'gravel bike'.

During the 3rd day of the ride, my indexing went out of alignment and as I had a train to catch in Santiago, I just flipped the MT62 thumbshifter to friction mode. I expected it to be an annoying but workable solution, but I quickly got used to it and was surprised to find I actually preferred friction shifting! The simplicity of it is certainly appealing.

The novelty of friction shifting hasn't yet worn off - I did day ride (60 km) in hilly terrain last week with the MT62 shifter still set to friction, to test out if I still like it on rides with frequent shifts and with climbs where I need to shift under load and mash the pedals, and it seems to suit me well. In fact, there seem to be far fewer mis-shifts and ghost shifts, and it's nice to be able to tweak the rear mech if you hear the jockey wheel is not well centred on the sprocket.

I may even go and do something mental, like fit a 10 speed 11-36 cassette to use with friction shifting...
 
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