1991/92 Team Marin ?

Hi,

I have this team marin, not sure if it's a 91/92 model?

Anyway, I have been thinking of restoring it for commuter rides but the frame size is a little on the large side and I end up having to stretch a far bit, ending with backaches on longer rides.

Does anyone know this bike can be fitted with a quill adaptor so that I could use those modern stems / handlebars to reduce the reach from saddle to handlebar? I saw there are two types of adaptors: 1" to 1 1/8 " & 1 1/8" to 1 1/8" , any idea which is the one to get?

The RST front sus is a goner, half sunken in...will need to find appropriate fork to replace also..any suggestions?

Any advise is appreciated!

Cheers.

Re:

nice bike ! doesn't look like needs restoring, just a little refereshing as I think they call it now, mostly original but rear hub ?

anyway 92, from the rear triangle assuming the team followed other models, marins are known for their long reach and I have struggled in same way, I ended getting smaller frames but even going down a size I found did not make a huge difference and combined with shorter stems.

Eldridge and Pine are 1 1/8 stem so guess team is as well ?

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Thats a '92, they have a 1 1/8" headtube so you'd need the 1 1/8" to 1 1/8" adapter. I'd look for some used short travel forks so as not to mess up the geometry too much. Should be lots of choice as 1 1/8" forks are a lot easier to find that 1" versions.

Re:

Slide the saddle forward on the rails it always helps. And change to an ahead fork, that way you have more choice of stem lengths and angles. Older quill stems tend to be quite long (at least 120mm) modern ahead stems you can get as short as 70mm

Unsure what youve been looking at but No adapter is needed

Sean

Re: Re:

SEANSTEPHENS":2deq7mj5 said:

Slide the saddle forward on the rails it always helps. And change to an ahead fork, that way you have more choice of stem lengths and angles. Older quill stems tend to be quite long (at least 120mm) modern ahead stems you can get as short as 70mm

No adapter shims needed

Click to expand...

+1 That's a much more sensible idea. easier to find both the stem and forks too.

No adapter shims would be needed, but you'd have to change the headset.

Agree. I think sliding forward you're saddle would make a little difference...try it out first and decide...as for the fork, aren't you considering rigids?

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I think the saddle position should be set relative to bb and depending on crank lengths, and then bars adjusted to suit, moving the saddle is the tail wagging the dog. See here towards bottom on positioning

http://sheldonbrown.com/saddles.html

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You can also get the saddle a little further forward with an in-line seat post, rather than one with some offset or layback.

You can find short quill stems, but they are generally quite cheap and nasty: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mountain-Bike ... 3cdde39e85

I actually have one of these cheap short 60mm quill stem fitted to a Marin frame I use as a "town bike" where I wanted a bit more of a "sit up and beg" riding position that makes it easier to see around and behind than it is in a more stretched out position. It works, but it's ugly, heavy and quite flexy and I wouldn't use it for "proper" riding.

seanstephens: I was looking at getting this initially if it's suitable because I could then look for shorter stem alternatives (which are aplenty) with some rise to lessen the stretched out position. Current stem length's about 130mm.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/sg/e ... p-prod6254

Based on what benbonty mentioned, looks like it will work. Also considering a wider riser bar, say about 620-640mm. Right now the bar width is about 560/580.. feels kinda twitchy when i hop back to this bike from my full suss bike.

Can I replace with it with this suspension fork http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/sg/e ... prod109685? Looking at something with 80-100mm travel.

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I think it's a '92 model: http://www.retrobike.co.uk/gallery2/d/12565-2/1992.pdf

According to the catalogue these were available with suspension forks, but I don't think the frame geometry was altered for suspension and the rigid forks they were supplied with were non suspension corrected 390mm axle to crown length, so the suspension forks were pretty short travel, about 50mm.

Sticking longer travel forks on this frame might make the steering feel a bit weird. I put some longer than standard rigid forks on a non suspension corrected frame a while back, 415mm instead of 390mm. I thought the extra 25mm wouldn't make much difference, but it did, it felt awful, instead of making the steering a little slower, as I expected, it made it really twitchy, especially on slow tight turns where the bike sought of fell into the turn, difficult to describe, but definitely felt odd. I think it was due to wheel flop: http://cycloculture.blogspot.co.uk/2010 ... fined.html