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PostPosted: Thu Apr 25, 2013 10:31 pm 
Dirt Disciple
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Joined: Thu Dec 15, 2011 10:46 pm
Posts: 95
Location: UK
I've created a monster and have no idea where it fits best, but figured most people into Kona Hahannas will look on the MTB section...!

Since all my newbie questions I've finished my first custom build. I ride a '93 14" Hahanna daily that I've had from new (nicknamed 'the Beast'), basically on the road the whole time...fabulous, rigid, light, and pin sharp handling - but I liked the idea of putting road wheels on one. I clearly realised this was a lot more complicated than just switching wheels, so went looking for another frame to maybe do a scratch build, maybe a single speed to keep it simple, and experiment.

I did A LOT of stuff I've not seen before, so documenting it in case anyone is interested/needs advice.

So, I eventually got hold of a slightly worn out '98 14" Hahanna. It was not quite the Joe Murray era vintage, but I went for it anyway. I'd already bought a set of P2 forks, but hadn't learnt yet about steerer tube diameter variation, and when they came, offering them up against my old '93, it was clear they were too large. However, when I picked up my '98, I spend a few minutes looking at it, realising that actually the gauge of every tube except for the seatpost tube was a slightly larger diameter than the '93/94 Hahanna frames.

It was quite nice, being subtley chunkier, as it seemed still quite light (for cro-mo), and kind of made me think of flashy modern road bikes, especially in bright scarlet fiery red. I named the bike 'Aries' right then; Hahanna meaning 'hot' fyi. However, as previously a kid's knockabout MTB, it was loaded with heavy suspension forks, and lots of average MTB gear. I stripped it down to the only the frame; tested the forks; indeed, I had accidentally got the right size! Thus I decided, working with now the frame and forks I knew and loved and feeling the vibe it was giving me, to build something flashy and sturdy to go fast on the road.

About 6 months later, working around the rest of life, I have a glorious machine (in my eyes), which I've just taken out and tested after finally finishing details. Rides BEAUTIFULLY. Changes gear silently; handles so, so well. I've not even tested it for speed....BUT not one thing on it was straightforward, or didn't go on with some level of modification. If you think 'wow, I could do that with my old mtb' I'd advise EXTREME CAUTION/FOR THE LOVE OF GOD MAYBE NOT, unless you're like modding and tinkering and challenges and are 'creative'....I knew little about bike building before I began, so had to do ALL THE LEARNING. Intense.

Here's some pictures and what I used and did:

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- P2 Forks/Kona Impact headset: well, I could have used road forks. But I wanted the retro look and their generally awesomeness, and basically I can't justify it any more than the frame, so...never mind. The steerer was typically too long (have you seen the size of this frame!!!) and was threaded. So as to retain the Impact headset, which I nearly rejected(!), I needed to thread the steerer and cut it. The chap who did it said he'd never tapped harder cro-mo! Did a beautiful job, and I used an old headset as a cutting guide. I like low bars so I allowed room for one slim spacer.

- Specialized long stem/Scott anatomic drops/ and BBB quilll stem adapter: OK so I scrapped the idea of making this build 'lightweight' ha! I had lovely threaded forks, but wanted to use the modern stem type for threadless steerers. So I got an adapter, which was of course too long, so had to modify that, but it worked well. I kept my reach measurement the same as 'the Beast' as I was comfortable with that. Could get away with shorter, but meh.

- Ultegra groupset. STI flight deck 9 speed shifters/cassette/rd/fd (double), and incidentally chunky Ultegra rear hub. Like a fool I decided to put gears on this bike. I basically went with what I could find on ebay at a reasonable price, and started with the shifters, as what I could get hold of would determine the groupset (eg. 8 speed, 9, shimano/campag etc). I bagged a good condition set of 9 speed triple STIs for a decent price, flight deck compatible (not that I could afford that!). That meant I had to find Ultegra 9 speed stuff - and did ok. Critical was finding by chance the rebuilt rear wheel with an HG cassette, Ultegra hub - ideal. No faff. The rim was more worn than I'd like, but still had a good wear groove present. Can't recall the precise cassette ratios but I knew at the time and calculated accordingly to get the short cage RD.
Front derailleur was a problem, because like a fool I hadn't realised that some derailleurs were bottom pull, some top. My frame only had cable stops for top pull. I had a bottom pull Ultegra FD. So, lots of reading later, we made an experimental titanium rip off of a Speen adapter, with some tweaks. My STI shifter was designed for 3 chainrings, so plenty of clicks to pull the cable across despite the slight mechanical disadvantage. Worse to come: because of this adapter, the cable had to come out at a sheer angle form the stop on the down tube - it was simply unacceptable. So, we hacked the back off an old RD, put a riv nut in the seat post tube, and bolted in a new cable stop. Elegantly done, but quite a wacky mod!

Image

- Tiagra hollwtech pedals/XTR BB/FSA chainrings 52/39: The BB was new, from Rose cycles, and the cranks and chainrings came as one off fleabay. Again, what was available at the right price. Beggars could not be choosers with this build! Of course, I knew the chainstays might be wider than a road bike, and conflict with the HUGE chainrings. I researched fitting this well-reputed MTB BB with these considerations, and it worked to put one spacer crank side. It meant I lost a tiny fraction of spline on the other crank attachment, as the cranks are designed not to have spacers. My assessment was this was easily passable. The inner chainring is CLOSE to the chainstay, but acceptably clear. Alignment? Indexing? Of course I faffed for ages. No problems with chainline at all.In fact, fewer than I read about people reporting on standard road bikes. Worked very well in almost every ratio. It shifts so, so smoothly!

- Tektro Quartz normal/medium reach calipers/Kool stop salmon pads: Why not callipers on a MTB frame converted to 700c wheels? They work fine -but do need mods to the frame/forks. I originally had some nice short drop callipers but they were a fraction short. You'll see form the pictures we drilled the rear bridge between the seatstays and also the hole in the forks. The bridge has a custom ally washer, made by my father and I (similarly commented how hard the cro-mo is!). I could have ground off the cantilever posts, but the bike may get rebuilt and they may be wanted, so I didn't want to disable it. Kool stops to look after my rims!

Image

- Gipiemme T-Quattro rear wheel and Gipiemme..something else..front: What was available to me at a good price! The front has a silky smooth original hub and is little worn; the rear is older but came with so much money worth of stuff on it and was so ideal I had to have it. We cold set the chainstays of course to fit a road wheel - bit hard getting it symmetrical, but got there in the end, and the wheel fitted nicely.

-Kona smooth saddle and XL seat post. Surprisingly, not mod required. That's...just not normal...

OTHER NOTABLE MODS:
- Custom stainless STI shifter guards. Ever leant your bike up on a wall? Knocked it over? Crashed it? What scrapes the ground/wall first? The damned expensive STI shifters! Hence why I've got some red paint on the tips disguising some of the previosu owners misdemeanours. We decided to create some experimental shields, obviously compromising on weight and ergonomics, but what the hell. They are held on with jubilee clips, all stainless, and re-positionable. I made four sections of leather padded handgrip and laced them on (at bit like Gropes). Overall, for my riding style, it's all quite comfy and usable! Only fitting that the 'ram' should have horns..

Image

- Cosmetic stuff: Frame came up lovely with Smoothrite touch ins, t-cut, and a white accent stripe in sprayed smoothrite (tough paint). Because why not. Chrome cable outers + stainless inners, because shiny. Oh and most of the bolts etc are stainless - nothing worse than orange screw heads.

Image

WHY SO MUCH EFFORT FOR A HAHANNA? Because that's how I roll, and I like a challenge and doing something original. Riding it, it feels a lot like my other one, but more AWESOME. It probably weighs the same if not a little more than 'the Beast'; but then I weigh about the same as a bag of sugar. And it wasn't the point of the build, which was to experiment, and build a tough road machine. I was ok budget wise until I have to get Conti Gatorhardshells...this made me weep. Almost the most expensively bought things on it!

I have two other frames at present; I am currently formulating project 'death bike'....

Plus, I'm always on the lookout for more 14" Hahannas, and P2 forks (~39cam axle-crown(?); the shortest ones) and other Kona bits.

Any questions, comments, suggestions welcome!

Image


Last edited by DMZ on Fri Apr 26, 2013 5:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 25, 2013 11:15 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Sun Jun 20, 2010 4:39 pm
Posts: 1455
love it...love it, and again...love it!!!
i might do this road mtb thing with my coyote xc2 fs.....just to see................


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 6:40 am 
BoTM | Gold | PoTM
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Joined: Thu Jan 19, 2012 2:20 pm
Posts: 8684
Location: Sunny Cornwall
I'm sure this won't appeal to everyone but I love the fact that you've had fun building it and have scratched your head and found solutions to all the problems along the way. I think the finished article looks eccentric but appealing. Looking forward to the next one :wink:


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 7:08 am 
retrobike rider
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Joined: Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:08 am
Posts: 6854
Location: Nth Somerset, UK
That's a really excellent build, and some 'interesting' solutions to the problems you run into converting an mtb to drops.

Sounds like you've had a blast doing it, and you now join a rather exclusive club of those who do things differently.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=94356


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 8:31 am 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Tue Feb 17, 2009 1:16 pm
Posts: 4347
So this one is interesting...for all the admin board reasons...98 model...as a road bike...where to put it? (Not in the 97 section that's for sure ;-) )


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 9:52 am 
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider
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Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2012 10:48 pm
Posts: 1409
Location: Edinburgh
Run for your lives...... It's the forum police !!!!!!!!!!!! ^ :lol:


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 10:07 am 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Tue Oct 19, 2010 9:55 am
Posts: 7058
Location: The land of Lea & Perrins
Plus one wrote:
Run for your lives...... It's the forum police !!!!!!!!!!!! ^ :lol:


:lol: :lol:


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 10:46 am 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Joined: Mon Jun 22, 2009 11:09 am
Posts: 9399
Location: Devon
I really like what you have done, but (don't take this the wrong way) why not get a bigger frame? Surely having a seatpost that exposed, regardless of the amount in the frame, puts too much stress on the seattube?


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 11:36 am 
Dirt Disciple
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Joined: Thu Dec 15, 2011 10:46 pm
Posts: 95
Location: UK
Ha Ha! Enjoying the comments. Pretty much describes my life (eccentric and appealing...ha maybe! well I tend to do things differently at any rate!)...I sit chuckling having a G&T whilst people argue over which box to put me in...I'm like...you can do that...or come and chill with a G&T...and build/ride bikes etc..:)

My other 3 Kona Hahanna 14"s are '93 (above), '93 and '94...my usual fayre; it was indeed truly a huge life decision to stretch to '98...knowing this meant that I'd be breaking all systems of categorisation and that life would never be the same...... :P

@coomber - yes you're entirely right I could go bigger. But it's also aesthetic reasons and how I can step on and off it etc, I just like them. It has the right length seat post (as in, its sitting below the top tube junction so it's putting as little stress as possible for the situation); coupled with the epic strength of the frame, and the fact I am very light, I'm fairly confident in it for my purposes. The '93 I've pictured needs a new post through. I've ridden it for ages above min. insertion (my bad)..

'Death bike' will see how light I can make a build out of one of these, for the challenge, but carbon parts are expensive so it will have to wait. Oh and 'the Beast' will get refurbished at some point..in chrome...I'll keep one of them as a MTB setup, not sure which. I'd actually like to find another set of Joe Murray propulsion/equilibrium tyres..if anyone has any knocking around.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 11:46 am 
Gold Trader
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Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2011 11:49 am
Posts: 1406
Location: Salisbury, Wilts
love this!


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