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PostPosted: Tue Mar 05, 2013 12:17 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 14, 2012 4:51 pm
Posts: 2277
Location: Llantwit Major
I had an F4 that Gil made some disc mounts for. Not sure he still does them.
That does look nice though apart from the welding on that mount :(


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 7:58 pm 
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider

Joined: Thu May 06, 2010 10:05 pm
Posts: 5660
Location: Aberdeen
Well, as usual I can't help but meddle with a bike, so from a fully functional ride I am now left with this... :facepalm:

Image

It's not as bad as it looks though! I decided that this frame deserved better than the tired M739 kit which it came with, so I'm collecting a mix of modern-ish parts and some retro parts to build a bike that I am happy with.

Parts thus far:

Forks: Fox F80 RLT (from a forum member, temporary until I get some RC38's fixed)
Headset: Cane Creek S8 (came with bike, and I'm impressed by it's construction)
Stem: Pace RC45 (came with bike)
Bars: Pace RC Sub130
Grips: WTB or Ritchey WCS
Brakes: Formula Oro K24 (will eventually change to modern Hope's)
Shifters: Shimano XTR M970
F/Mech: Shimano XTR M960
R/Mech: Shimano XTR M970
Chainset: FSA Carbon Pro
Seatpost: Thomson Elite 29.4 (I had to get the right size post, the shimmed USE post was bugging me)
Saddle: Selle Italia Flite (came with bike, old & battered but v.comfy!)
Pedals: Crank Bros Eggbeater 1 (went for the cheaper version as I've only ever used SPD's before :? )
Wheels: Mavic XC717 silver on Chris King Discotech hubs (oldies but goldies :D )

And that's where it's at right now, I took the frame to the LBS to have the non-drive side bottom bracket cup removed as it was seized solid and I was in danger of mashing up the cup beyond recovery, they also tapped and cleaned the threads.
Also had to replace the piston in the master cylinder on the front brake, having not worked on disc brakes much it was a daunting task but I found a great guide on the internet that made it easy.

Looks like it's going to be a pretty monochrome build, lots of silver, some black, and that's about it really :lol:


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 10:04 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Wed Aug 08, 2007 12:15 am
Posts: 7563
Location: North Yorkshire
Whatever you do, DO NOT! use a shimmed seat post or use RC 38 forks (unless they are the Airforce short travel versions) both with split the frame, I have seen literally dozens of these frames wrecked by riders sticking Modern forks on them and splitting the head tube, top to bottom, they put far too much leverage on the head tube and same goes for the seat tube with a Shim. Use a proper 29.4 seatpost and put at lease 150mm in the tube, preferably more.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 10:25 pm 
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Joined: Wed Aug 08, 2007 12:15 am
Posts: 7563
Location: North Yorkshire
Radar wrote:
Shimmed USE seatpost on a Pace; do I don't I? Bit like asking about putting grease on a square taper BB. Upto f6 Pace manual said no quite categorically. From f6 up (sure it is f6 and not f7, sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong) Pace made their own shim. I've always run a USE seatpost with Pace shim for the entire life of my f8. Works fine, creaks sometime but so does my seatpost on my carbon roadie. Just have to put a wee smidge of grease everywhere.


It was never, have manuals for both F7/8 and it catagorically states to not use a shim, (frame WILL crack)


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 21, 2013 12:02 am 
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider

Joined: Thu May 06, 2010 10:05 pm
Posts: 5660
Location: Aberdeen
Woldranger, you'll be glad to know that I have sourced the correctly sized 29.4 seatpost if 410mm length, so there's plenty of post in the frame :D
And the RC38's I have (2 sets actually, but both need a service/repair) are the shorter travel models, the Fox forks are 80mm travel, and I wouldn't go more than that as I'd wager it would ruin the ride characteristics of what is a fantastically responsive frame.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2013 10:31 pm 
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Joined: Wed Aug 08, 2007 12:15 am
Posts: 7563
Location: North Yorkshire
jimo746 wrote:
Woldranger, you'll be glad to know that I have sourced the correctly sized 29.4 seatpost if 410mm length, so there's plenty of post in the frame :D
And the RC38's I have (2 sets actually, but both need a service/repair) are the shorter travel models, the Fox forks are 80mm travel, and I wouldn't go more than that as I'd wager it would ruin the ride characteristics of what is a fantastically responsive frame.




Phew!!!!!!!!!! Well done, I had the Carbon Racelight versions once and they were 63mm travel, be careful with the Fox' though as even the 80mm travel versions have long ATC lengths.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 25, 2013 9:22 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 14, 2006 8:11 pm
Posts: 1181
Location: Hobbiton-on-the-Water
Wold Ranger wrote:
Radar wrote:
Shimmed USE seatpost on a Pace; do I don't I? Bit like asking about putting grease on a square taper BB. Upto f6 Pace manual said no quite categorically. From f6 up (sure it is f6 and not f7, sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong) Pace made their own shim. I've always run a USE seatpost with Pace shim for the entire life of my f8. Works fine, creaks sometime but so does my seatpost on my carbon roadie. Just have to put a wee smidge of grease everywhere.


It was never, have manuals for both F7/8 and it catagorically states to not use a shim, (frame WILL crack)


Can't check the manual at the moment as it's in the loft. If Pace say NEVER use a shim, why did they make one? For their frames? Which is listed in the last incarnation of the RC200 manual, parts section?


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 10:47 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 20, 2007 11:19 pm
Posts: 7006
Location: Odense, Denmark
Wold Ranger wrote:
Whatever you do, DO NOT! use a shimmed seat post or use RC 38 forks (unless they are the Airforce short travel versions) both with split the frame, I have seen literally dozens of these frames wrecked by riders sticking Modern forks on them and splitting the head tube, top to bottom, they put far too much leverage on the head tube and same goes for the seat tube with a Shim. Use a proper 29.4 seatpost and put at lease 150mm in the tube, preferably more.


F6s were made to run with the original Proclass which had 90mm travel... I ran mine with an Airforce2 which only has 63mm travel and the handling greatly improved with an RC36 Evo III set to 80. So not sure why you draw this conclusion WR? Unless you are talking about 10mm RC38s?

Re. shims - you are just increasing the margin for error of bad tolerances. If you have a 27,2 seat-tube that actually measures 27.3 and a 25.0 seatpost that measures 24.9 and then add a shim which adds another tenth of a millimeter intolerance.... then it's not good. Most frames that break near the seatpost are do to these types of tolerance issues.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 17, 2013 10:13 pm 
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider

Joined: Thu May 06, 2010 10:05 pm
Posts: 5660
Location: Aberdeen
Had the bike up & running for a while now and I'm very happy with it :D
All this nonsense about "Pace frames must only have Uk made parts and Pace forks" is just that, nonsense :P the Fox forks work perfectly on the front end, Shimano drivetrain is flawless, rear hub sound is addictive :D , and try finding a UK made 29.4 seatpost that doesn't use a shim!!

Anyway, a few pics of it from a recent trip into the countryside. Future upgrades may include modern Hope brakes, although the Formula's are doing a sterling job for the moment :) , and some decals from gil_m.

Image
Image
Image
Image


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 17, 2013 10:23 pm 
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider

Joined: Thu May 06, 2010 10:05 pm
Posts: 5660
Location: Aberdeen
Ooops! Spec List below...

Frame: Pace RC200 F6 18"

Fork: Pace RC31 Carbon

Headset: Chris King No-Threadset
Stem: Pace RC45
Handlebar: Renthal RC Sub130
Grips: Ritchey WCS Foam

Brakes: Hope Mono M4 front/ Mono Mini rear
Brake Pads: Superstar Components

Shifters: Shimano XTR M970
Front Derailleur: Shimano XTR M960
Rear Derailleur: Shimano XTR M970
Derailleur Cables: Jagwire
Cassette: Shimano HG50 9spd 11-34
Chain: Sram PC90
Cranks: FSA AFterburner
Crank Bolts: FSA
Chainrings: FSA 27/39T
Chainring bolts: FSA
Bottom Bracket: FSA GXP
Pedals: Crank Bros Candy X

Hub Skewers: AEST Titanium
Rims: Mavic XC717 Disc
Hubs: Chris King Discotech
Nipples: Brass
Spokes: Unknown
Tyres: Kenda Klimax LIte 345g
Tubes: Michelin C4

Saddle: Selle Italia Flite Ti
Seatpost: Thomson Elite 29.4x410mm
Seatpost Binder: Pace integrated.

Weight: 21.5lbs


Last edited by jimo746 on Wed Jul 03, 2013 9:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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