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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 9:34 am 
BoTM Winner / retrobike rider
BoTM Winner / retrobike rider
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2005 2:34 pm
Posts: 1836
Location: Wellington, New Zealand
Wow how awesome is that frame and repair job!!!

Two Raleigh team bikes and several more to find :)

Thanks for sharing :)


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 4:14 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Joined: Fri Feb 06, 2009 11:13 pm
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Location: Skipton
Sweet project 8)

Have you seen Mark's old build?

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=44661&hilit=raleigh

I loved that bike, it was superb. Wonder where it is now?


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2013 7:39 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Sat Oct 01, 2011 2:23 pm
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Looks like you are doing well :)


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 16, 2013 12:42 am 
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Location: In the Garage in Somerset
firedfromthecircus wrote:
Rob Atkin wrote:

So fixing it is relatively easy. :-)

Image



Was it MIG welded?


That looks like a mig to me, must have been set real low so as to not blow holes :) :D


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 16, 2013 12:52 am 
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firedfromthecircus wrote:
Was it MIG welded?


That looks like a MIG to me. I think Reynolds would probably frown upon that, although if the welder knows what he's doing it may be OK. In theory 531 doesn't like that much heat arriving in a small area very suddenly. I'd certainly keep an eye on it. At worst it'll crack again, but it was broken before, so you won't be any worse off :)


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 16, 2013 12:59 am 
Windmilling for a Scotch Egg
Windmilling for a Scotch Egg
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Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2011 10:27 am
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Location: Huddersfield, West Yorkshire
It was mig welding. A lot of material had to be built up to then ground back to make a strong repair. The cracks were quite wide and had to be cut into to form a v-shape then filled in. While this might add a few grams it ensures a very strong repair that can be used. It's been tested with a lot of weight hanging of the back end and it doesn't shift at all.

As you can see its a very professional repair and very neatly done. There is now only small areas of paint to touch up.

As I said before the only other option is replacing the tubes, which would destroy the paint on the main triangle which is part of the frames history.

The worst that can happen is that the repair doesn't hold up (unlikely) and tubes have to be replaced, the only other option anyway. There is nothing to lose in trying this repair first and it has been done very well I think.

If the frame was a regular frame (maybe like the Orange Formula on this site) rather than a ex-team frame I may be happier doing a repaint. Not in this case - here is a bike showing professional racing patina and that is way more valuable than a particular bit of tubing its made out of.

I blooming love this bike and can't wait to see it built up!!


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 16, 2013 1:01 am 
Windmilling for a Scotch Egg
Windmilling for a Scotch Egg
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Location: Huddersfield, West Yorkshire
Does anyone know the RAL code for the blue colour? If I know this it'll make it much easier to source the paint.

Thanks all for the words of support. :-)


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 16, 2013 1:13 am 
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Location: In the Garage in Somerset
I would like to say your welder is obviously confident in his Ability! He's welding without gauntlets and above nice flammable newspaper!!! :o :lol:

If done properly the welds will be stronger than the original parent metal, looking at the finished pics it's a very tidy job :D


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 16, 2013 2:20 am 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Rob Atkin wrote:
Does anyone know the RAL code for the blue colour? If I know this it'll make it much easier to source the paint.

Thanks all for the words of support. :-)


I'd take it to a paint shop and get them to colour match it as that paint will probably have faded a bit with time. That way you should be able to get a seamless join.

Lucky git :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 16, 2013 2:25 am 
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Rob Atkin wrote:
It's been tested with a lot of weight hanging of the back end and it doesn't shift at all.


That's not really the point -- it's what happens a few hundred miles down the line that would be the concern. Excess rapid heating can lead to embrittlement and rapid fatigue cracking -- 531 predates electric welding, it was designed to be be brazed, which involves lower temperatures over a wider area.

But all that said:

Rob Atkin wrote:
As I said before the only other option is replacing the tubes, which would destroy the paint on the main triangle which is part of the frames history.


^ this

Rob Atkin wrote:
The worst that can happen is that the repair doesn't hold up (unlikely) and tubes have to be replaced, the only other option anyway. There is nothing to lose in trying this repair first and it has been done very well I think.


^ this

Rob Atkin wrote:
here is a bike showing professional racing patina and that is way more valuable than a particular bit of tubing its made out of.


^ and this x lots :)

No idea on the paint code, all I can suggest is this:

http://compare.ebay.co.uk/like/16095780 ... pla&crdt=0

;)


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