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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2013 10:56 am 
retrobike rider
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Joined: Sun Dec 18, 2011 10:42 pm
Posts: 2189
Location: milton keynes
no stoppers on the frames because all the bits had to be bolted or riveted on, even the bridges and canti mounts are bolted on. i just dont think there was enough space to bolt a fd cable stop on the seat tube without it interfering with the seat post. very nice frames i have a 6000 and a 8000 myself and they make great commuters. although i would get rid of both of them for a 92 7000zx like i had bitd :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2013 5:45 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Wed Mar 30, 2011 2:18 pm
Posts: 1285
Location: in the harbor
A frame with no welds is very nice :D ...some details

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Here we go ....either with this

Image

or with decoupage :wink: :lol:


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 Post subject: Re: TREK 8000
PostPosted: Sat Feb 02, 2013 7:06 pm 
Retro Guru
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Location: in the harbor
Playing around with decoupage. It's still not finished, but the present result isn't actually not such a bad thing :wink: :D

Image

Image

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:mrgreen:


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 02, 2013 7:09 pm 
eBay Outing Master
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Joined: Sat Nov 21, 2009 3:53 pm
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Nader wrote:
sylus wrote:
decoupage

That was the best idea you've ever had mate :lol: and gives me incredibly great ideas. :wink:


Damm I knew one would get out eventually :D

I was thinking more cut outs from old mountain bike publications but i like were your going with that...and if it's not the end result then it's good anyway to play around with themes


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 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 02, 2013 7:17 pm 
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Location: in the harbor
sylus wrote:
Nader wrote:
sylus wrote:
decoupage

That was the best idea you've ever had mate :lol: and gives me incredibly great ideas. :wink:


Damm I knew one would get out eventually :D

that was your idea mate :wink: , and I can only say it's a fantastic way to eliminate expensive paint jobs. ...and you can do it again and again


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 Post subject: Re: TREK 8000
PostPosted: Sat Feb 02, 2013 7:32 pm 
eBay Outing Master
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Joined: Sat Nov 21, 2009 3:53 pm
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Gets the kids interested in recycling and bicycling at the same time, Looking forward to seeing the results


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 Post subject: Re: TREK 8000
PostPosted: Sat Feb 02, 2013 10:04 pm 
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sylus wrote:
Gets the kids interested in recycling and bicycling at the same time..,

of course ... and that's a work of both kids. :D

Now back to problems! as known this TREK has a very odd design for the front derailleur. :shock:
I thought, I could screw such a stopper clamp on the seat tube and use a top pull derailleur.

Image

Image

But where do I get it in 34.9 mm diameter? :?


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 Post subject: Re: TREK 8000
PostPosted: Sat Feb 02, 2013 10:36 pm 
eBay Outing Master
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Joined: Sat Nov 21, 2009 3:53 pm
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Single speed?


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 Post subject: Re: TREK 8000
PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 7:46 am 
Dirt Disciple
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Joined: Mon Dec 31, 2012 6:56 am
Posts: 12
Location: Forgotten part of Hungary
Nader wrote:
sylus wrote:
Gets the kids interested in recycling and bicycling at the same time..,

of course ... and that's a work of both kids. :D

Now back to problems! as known this TREK has a very odd design for the front derailleur. :shock:
I thought, I could screw such a stopper clamp on the seat tube and use a top pull derailleur.

Image

Image

But where do I get it in 34.9 mm diameter? :?


Hi, I had the same problem with my '91 TREK 970, but don't worry, with a bit of effort its' very easy to solve.

So, you know the bolt, which holds the brake pad in canti brakes, right? It's drilled through in the middle so the pad can be inserted in its BIG hole. I had plenty around from previuos builds, but it's easy to get anyway. I've taken this bolt, cut off the threaded section of it, drilled a small diameter (1,5 mm) hole right into the middle of the Allen key-like head on the end of the bolt, making way for the cable wire. The wire cable outer sometimes is too big to fit into the original Allen-key hollow, so you can drill into it carefully to turn it into a wider diameter.

Then made a clamp from simple drilled steel strip which is often used for fixing and placing water spouts and easy to get from hardware/DIY shops. It's easy to bend with hand, strong enough, made in different sizes and its side pattern reminds me of a bike chain. You can use other sorts of strips, of course. When the steel strip was measured and cut to fit the frame tube, then placed "the cable holder-bit" vertically tightly next to the seatube, wrapped the drilled section of the steel strip around the frame and with a bit of luck the BIG hole of the bolt & strip holes get even.

Now comes the trickiest bit. I took a 6 mm Allen bolt, inserted into the BIG hole of the original brake bolt, and carefully marked it with a pen right through the SMALL hole previously made for the wire. This is essential in order to be able to fix the whole "full stop clamp" with only one bolt on the frame. The cable wire runs through this bolt, so accurate measurement is vital! Then drilled through with the same diameter (1, 5 mm should be enough for the wire) as was used on the brake bolt.


Now I've could insert a bolt into them to make the whole "thing" to work as it should, looking not too fussy, fixed with only one bolt, and without welding! I'm going to include pictures, cause my description can be chaotic I know, English is only my second language :wink:


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 Post subject: Re: TREK 8000
PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 10:16 am 
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Joined: Wed Mar 30, 2011 2:18 pm
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Location: in the harbor
foolproof wrote:
...
Hi, I had the same problem with my '91 TREK 970....

thank you for this detailed explanation and I understand exactly what you mean. :D
But there is a bit problem, the TREK 8000 has no bolt which holds the brake pad in canti brakes.

Image


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