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PostPosted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 7:50 pm 
Devout Dirtbag

Joined: Tue May 24, 2011 8:18 pm
Posts: 108
Location: Warwickshire
Well I've stripped the paint off. Some years ago an EU directive banned the active ingredient in paintstripper. Those who have tried using modern paintstripper will be aware of how useless it can be now. A frame that I stripped earlier in the year took many weeks and a lot of scraping. However, this clockwork turned out to be much easier than I was expecting - probably because of the lack of lacquer, and the scratched condition of the paint.

Observations:
1) The grey/blue finish of the metal under the paint suggests it was treated (galvanised, hot or cold blue treated?). Wire wool does not cut this back very easily. The treatment has worked as the only evidence of any rust is a small area within the bottom bracket housing as you would expect.

2) The rear drop out, bosses, cable stops, butted seat clamp tube are all brazed on. There is also a large blob of brazing material between the two chainstays where they meet the bottom bracket - can't immediately see its purpose.

3) Drilled holes, bosses, cable stops, tube ends all had burrs - presumably too labour intensive to debur - tends to get covered up by the paint. Will debur these.

4) A number of weld splatter blobs - again only noticeable once the paint was removed. Will file these down.

5) No butting on the headtube.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2012 9:25 pm 
Old School Grand Master

Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2011 8:42 pm
Posts: 3189
Nice job on the paint stripping. What you going to o next itch it


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2012 10:24 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Joined: Mon Jun 22, 2009 11:09 am
Posts: 9399
Location: Devon
Nice start and good detailed photos.

I would have guessed a 17" would suit you well, a 19" is quite large for your size, but depends on your preference etc.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 11:37 am 
Devout Dirtbag

Joined: Tue May 24, 2011 8:18 pm
Posts: 108
Location: Warwickshire
My initial attempts at removing the dull grey finish didn't look too promising. With renewed vigour, after a few days off, I took some sandpaper, wire wool and autsol to the frame and it did polish very nicely. That shine represents about a days work on and off.

Looks fantastic at the moment - hand polishing leaves a lovely patina that sandblasting etc would probably have removed. Nice contrast between gold of the brazing and the steel. But it is bare steel and won't last in its current state. So where now?

1) I have some 'cold blue' that I am going to oxidise some of the smaller parts. Tempted to try it on the frame, but most reviews indicate it is very difficult to get right and doesn't last.

2) Leave bare and regularly spray in silicon. Would require long term maintenance. However, I do use it on a bare aluminium frame and that has not tarnished yet after a year.

3) Clear coat. All reviews appear to suggest this is a waste of time in the long term. However, googling has shown up some promise for a clear coat polymer called Nyalic. Expensive at £40 for two small aerosols though - and no testament as to its long term success.

4) Have it powder coated.

5) Let my 'arty' son loose on it with spray cans (he's keen).


I'm going to let it be while I clean up the other bits and see how quickly it tarnishes in my damp and cold garage.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 12:48 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Joined: Mon Apr 05, 2010 8:38 am
Posts: 2679
Location: Norfolkshire
Looks very nice, love the Raw look about it being stripped bare, but i share your concerns over it tarnishing and subsequently requiring a lot of maint to keep it looking good.

I had mine powderocated for £40, that was including full strip etc, so to get yours done would be less as you have done the hard work.

Here is a link to my Clockwork build, albeit a slow burner at the mo.

http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewto ... ?p=1601596

Loving the updates on your build, i love hearing how people look at different options when doing builds :D

Jussa :D


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 5:42 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2008 1:45 pm
Posts: 5282
Location: Bristol, UK
have a look at the paint job i did on my haro, took 6 or 7 cans of holts paint which cost me 20odd quid but the paintwork turned out really nicely :)

http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=227003&start=45

sean


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 8:24 pm 
Devout Dirtbag

Joined: Tue May 24, 2011 8:18 pm
Posts: 108
Location: Warwickshire
SEANSTEPHENS wrote:
have a look at the paint job i did on my haro, took 6 or 7 cans of holts paint which cost me 20odd quid but the paintwork turned out really nicely :)

http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=227003&start=45

sean


Great spraying booth you have there. There would be a lot of sprayed casualties in my garage if I try that at the moment. Very impressive finish.

My son uses 'Monster Colours' for his artwork. If I go down that route I will give him a free rein (probably). I will discuss it with him in the new year after his upcoming A level modules.

Rob


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 19, 2012 10:03 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Mon Apr 03, 2006 5:11 pm
Posts: 1103
Find somewhere that will do clear powder coat- will stick better than paint to the polished surface!

Looks great btw but it will rust quickly


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 19, 2012 11:08 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Sun Sep 05, 2010 1:10 am
Posts: 4756
Location: Heathfield, East Sussex
two years since I had mine clear coated over bare metal...

Image

...and it hasn't begun to rust yet 8)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 19, 2012 11:38 pm 
Devout Dirtbag

Joined: Tue May 24, 2011 8:18 pm
Posts: 108
Location: Warwickshire
We_are_Stevo wrote:
two years since I had mine clear coated over bare metal...

Image

...and it hasn't begun to rust yet 8)


Very impressive if that is over steel. Do you recall any details - ie method and clearcoat used?

Rob


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