Have some cantis on their way and an offer on some nice levers (that'll want a polish
I've pulled the shock out for a look at the bushes and to swap the conical seat back in in place of the temporary (but excellent fit!) headset top cap and I have a feeling there's no oil in it
not sure yet if these are serviceable, need to spend some time on the Proflex forums!
It's also now very wobbly as the shock sits flush against the seatstay but there's a big powder run there, so I'll have to rub that back flat.
Also, is there a (non brutal) way to stop the shaft rotating as you tighten/loosen the bolt that goes through the seatstay into the shock?
pete, what i did for tightning the bolt was..threadlock the bugger and wind it in nice and firm but not fully pinched(yet). attach other end of shock to it's home and fully tighten.
now, hold the stay with one hand on each side and 'work' it into line. on intervals, lower toward the eyelets they marry with and you will know when you are good because the stay will pop into line with eyelets just right, or not. keep at it til its just right. a balance of alighnment but not under any pressure or twist. sounds a pain but less than a minute sort of task. then, get your bolts in. threadlock the others for good measure and go round them all, 4 iirc.
lastly, not leastly
nip-up the stay to lower shock bolt before putting your wheel back in.
also, worth noting....any installation of front mech is, in some cases better done before rear end assembly. unless to have stubby allen keys.
maybe it was the mech i ran but, i had to drop the rear out to access cable pinch bolt properly.