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PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 6:26 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Mon Nov 12, 2012 4:06 pm
Posts: 86
Location: NE Scotland
Really interesting build


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 6:29 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2011 11:57 pm
Posts: 4074
Location: Antwerp, Belgium
This could be interesting indeed. Pulling up a chair.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 7:09 pm 
Windmilling for a Scotch Egg
Windmilling for a Scotch Egg
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Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2011 10:27 am
Posts: 4840
Location: Huddersfield, West Yorkshire
lae wrote:
Hey, brilliant work - I'll be watching this closely.

Just a word of caution - I don't know what kind of primer you're using, but most primers are porous; they'll soak up moisture over time which may cause problems later on when you come to paint over them - only if you leave it for weeks or months, though.

On car/bike restoration projects my personal preference is self-etch zinc primer for bare metal - it's much less porous. Red oxide primer is pretty good too, IMO it doesn't give as good adhesion as self-etching zinc.


It sounds like its a temporary measure while all the welding and mods are done to be fair. Probably will be re stripped before final finish?


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 7:10 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Tue Sep 21, 2010 8:08 pm
Posts: 1939
Location: East Lothian
sandmangts wrote:
Bullpup wrote:
Looking good.

Can you fasten your disc tab to the rear triangle brace?
No, due to the spacing originally being only 114mm and cold set now to 135 the chainstay is too close to the rotor when the wheel is mounted. The disk tab will have to be mounted over the dropout if it will work at all. I have the disk mount on its way. I could have made my own but the steel ones from Pacenti are only $6 bucks. Once it gets here I will know.


Thanks for the explanation.

Have you considered internal cable routing?


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 10:43 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Wed Jan 28, 2009 3:25 am
Posts: 696
Rob Atkin wrote:
lae wrote:
Hey, brilliant work - I'll be watching this closely.

Just a word of caution - I don't know what kind of primer you're using, but most primers are porous; they'll soak up moisture over time which may cause problems later on when you come to paint over them - only if you leave it for weeks or months, though.

On car/bike restoration projects my personal preference is self-etch zinc primer for bare metal - it's much less porous. Red oxide primer is pretty good too, IMO it doesn't give as good adhesion as self-etching zinc.


It sounds like its a temporary measure while all the welding and mods are done to be fair. Probably will be re stripped before final finish?


Yeah, it is a temp solution. The primer is just because the areas I sanded to prep for brazing started to rust overnight. So i can either strip off primer or I can strip off rust when the time comes. I prefer stripping off primer. And yes, I had thought about internal cable routing but given the age of the frame it seems like a bad idea. Although it would look pretty killer.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 11:04 pm 
eBay Outing Master
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Joined: Sat Nov 21, 2009 3:53 pm
Posts: 8000
I see a serious problem with this build and it's in the first picture...the bottles nearly empty


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 2:33 am 
Gold Trader
Gold Trader
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Joined: Fri Aug 20, 2010 11:28 am
Posts: 5634
Location: Gorleston-on-sea (If there is a bright center to the universe this is place furthest from it
Looks like it is going to be a superb project :D 8) 8)

Just one small concern.......................Aren't we in the 21st century now :wink: :lol: :lol:


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 10:02 am 
retrobike rider
retrobike rider
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Joined: Thu Oct 14, 2010 1:33 pm
Posts: 3972
Location: Brighton
kermitgreenkona88 wrote:
Looks like it is going to be a superb project :D 8) 8)

Just one small concern.......................Aren't we in the 21st century now :wink: :lol: :lol:


maybe his build will be '20th century' but he will remain in the 21st Century....... :? :?:


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 11:02 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Wed Jan 28, 2009 3:25 am
Posts: 696
kermitgreenkona88 wrote:
Looks like it is going to be a superb project :D 8) 8)

Just one small concern.......................Aren't we in the 21st century now :wink: :lol: :lol:
I am certainly still in the 20th. Duh! :D


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 5:16 am 
Retro Guru

Joined: Wed Jan 28, 2009 3:25 am
Posts: 696
So I made a little progress today. I am sure now that I can pull this off.

I got the disk tab in today and tried it on for size. Untrimmed like this was a no-go. I would never be able to get the wheel on an off without messing with the brake.
Image

So I trimmed it a bit, still rough but after some grinding and filing it should fit flush to the top of the seat stay. Then I will strip that primer back off, sand it with 80 grit so the brass can get a grip and then I will lay a fat bead in there. This way I can take the wheel off without any fuss.

Image


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