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PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 7:35 am 
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Location: Haydock
Quick tip.. Before you do any lacquer stripping I would note and measure the locations of all your stickers( I would take photos with the tape measure in shot). If you happen to have a mare there are forum members who can get you replacements stickers then deciding on location will be a easy.

Bottom brackets in older bikes can be a pain, even with the correct tools. So I would try and avoid unless your feeling in "will not be beaten" mood.

I have to say I do like the look of the nickel p7 with the black font and orange err orange.

Good luck with your build.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 8:34 am 
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Hi dablk,

Thanks for the tips, I have some new decals on the way from Gil_m, I'm looking forward to them arriving! I agree with you the black font with the orange is a great combo.

With regards the bottom bracket, I'm assuming you mean if it ain't broke then don't fix it?!! I haven't got a tool to remove it so it shall stay where it is, it seems to work fine so no reason to pull it as yet (Will I have to remove it if it goes for a re-spray though?).

Cheers ;-)


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 9:33 am 
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Ideally yeah if your getting a respray then yes. There's a lot more to getting a bb out than just the right tool or you may be lucky and have had a bike that had it removed once a year and reinserted.

My 96 lavadome is in excellent shape rust wise etc... It still took a tool, clamp, g lock, 2 ft bar, 16 stone of me and language that my church going neighbours probably have never heard to get mine out.... However it is a very very satisfying moment when it does go tink and turn.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 8:01 pm 
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Location: Hampshire
Making progress !
Regarding the IG/HG dilemma I really can't see what the issue would be using a HG chain with an IG derailleur or vice versa. I can see it might possibly prove more tricky using an HG chain on an IG crank...but have no evidence that its problem. It certainly works the other way round ok as I have an IG70 chain running on an HG cassette, cranks and derailleurs. This setup has some of the best gear changes I've ever experienced. As your cassette is HG that should probably dictate your choice for you, as thats where most gear changes and wear take place, but happy to be proved wrong if other members have evidence to the contrary.
I have had no problems with shimano chains in the past. As long as they are joined properly they are fine. I use shimano on my p7 and sram chains on my modern orange. Both seem fine.
I wouldn't worry too much about getting IG chainrings. My opinion is just get a ring that has the correct number of teeth, and fits the correct bolt circle diameter for your cranks.

Note that you can usually use 8-speed chains on a 7-speed setup if you wanted to, but not vice versa. A 7-speed chain would be too wide to fit comfortably on the sprockets of an 8-speed cassette. I have also heard of people using 9-speed chains on 7 and 8 speed setups, but not tried this myself. I think its best to get the appropriate speed (and therefore width) if possible, and if not then go for a chain that is designed one "speed" higher than your setup.

Definitely avoid taking apart shifters. I have successfully taken apart lx ones before, but its not for the faint hearted....and springs do tend to ping out when you undo things!

Re: bottom bracket - if you go for a re-spray that involves heat (e.g. powder coat or stove enamellling) you will definitely want to remove the bottom bracket. If its a "cold" respray or re-lacquer then you could get away with leaving it in. Personally I'd try to get it out anyway and re-fit to have confidence that it could be removed and replaced in future if needed. When re-fitting I put plumbers tape on the threads of the bottom bracket cartridge and grease on the threads in the frame. Others prefer copper-slip.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 10:04 pm 
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Hi again mate,

Yeah its coming along nicely now! I've just stripped all the lacquer off now, and I'm going to polish it up tonight to start the rebuild tomorrow hopefully. I've got some new decals (cheers Gil_m!!) which look great and I can't wait to apply them. I know its cheating a bit to, but I made some enquiries about re-lacquering and its going to cost me quite a lot, so I rang Orange and they said that as long as I keep the frame clean after rides and polish it regularly then there's no real need to lacquer it so I'm going to leave it bare, it certainly looks cool naked anyway!

With regards the chain, I went with an IG one in the end just because 2 of the 3 drive sets are IG based, hopefully based on your experience it should work well with the HG cassette. Luckily the chain I removed was an SRAM so I've got a power link now just in case of an unlucky break! I left the shifters alone after getting them working again with copious amounts of penetrating oil so I won't be risking breakage, one question though do I need to try and re-lube them now after the washout?

Embarassingly it turns out that the 42t chainset is fine, it has evenly placed deep cuts in it to assist shifting I think. My mistake as I couldn't really tell until I cleaned it properly once I got the cranks off!

I've decided to leave the wheel bearings and bottom bracket alone for now and get the bike running sweetly and then see how I go. I am going to pick up spare parts hopefully and get them replaced eventually. It would be a good idea to try and get the BB out though to see if it will turn so I may buy a tool for it soon. I know which type I need but does anyone have any recommendations for which makes are up to the job? (If the pedals and crank were anything to go by, then I'm not looking forward to having a go at it!!!) Once I get it out then I think your method of using PTFE and copious amounts of grease will definitely be the one to use!!

Cheers again for all the help!

Al

P.S. Any tips on measuring chains would be gratefully received!!


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 7:56 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 06, 2012 11:51 pm
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I'd use park tool tools, so much nicer to use than anything else I've used, especially important with parts that get stuck :D


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 11:41 pm 
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Raleighracer wrote:
I'd use park tool tools, so much nicer to use than anything else I've used, especially important with parts that get stuck :D


Cheers dude, I shall check some out. I've polished the frame now, and reinstalled some of the cleaned parts (pics to follow soon, promise!), just gotta put the Brakes/Shifters and grips on, followed by the chain and a gear set-up, then add the decals and its good to go.

Still after advice on fitting/measuring the chain as the included instructions only tell you how to click it together, not how to measure it!

Cheers ;-)


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 7:17 am 
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Location: Hampshire
If you have the old chain as a reference you can compare with that. Otherwise their is a method and maybe info available on shimanomwebsite or on the park tools workshop videos. Seem to recall method involves putting the chain around biggest cassette sprocket and largest chainring and marking where chain ends meet, then tAking out 1 or 2 links. Can't be sure on links off the top of my head.
You can use a quick link to join your chain instead of the special shimano pin. My experience is the kmc linkmworks best with shimano and kmc chains whilst the SRAM link works best with SRAM chains.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 12, 2012 5:11 pm 
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Cheers dude, I've been held up in my rebuild waiting for gear cables so its nearly done. Not fitting the chain till last, so hopefully by the end of the week I'll be raring to go!!

Thanks again!

Al


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 12, 2012 10:21 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 19, 2011 12:24 pm
Posts: 426
Location: Tavistock, Devon
the stx middle ring has some weird splits in the ring to aid shifting, and being steel i doubt they are knackered.

Image

same as these?


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