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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 10:26 am 
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Joined: Tue Sep 06, 2011 8:01 pm
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Location: Saarfend on sea
Been looking at tyres, there's nothing like a new set of tyres!

I like these: Haro Twin rail...

Image

I would be interested to hear opinions, good or bad, can't help thinking the grey on these would look nice against the frame..


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 6:08 pm 
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I think the grey will look nice with the frame but the trouble with the halo twin rails is they're 2.2 wide and i think they'll look massive bud... If it was me, i'd be looking for something smaller but decent grey tyres don't come up very often.

Rich


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 9:53 pm 
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2.2 is a bit wide, and does defeat the object of fitting slick ish tyres...

I will keep looking, any suggestions more than welcome!


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 11:53 pm 
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Maxis detonator or schwalbe city jets. Although I don't think 2.2s are that wide, I've got 2.5 dh tyres on my Saracen. I think if it was me I would have maxxis hookworms but there 2.5 but more slick like.

The trouble with the twin rails is just that, have a vague patch when leaning, certainly on the road ones, not read a review on the mtb ones


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 12:55 pm 
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So this is not much of an update, but I have taken a photograph of the frame and wheels together.

Image

I think it is important to include at least one kitchen photograph :D

The good thing about this was that I am now confident that the frame will be a perfect fit, and it is a nice moment when you can wheel it around for the first time!

I should have bars and brakes by next week, and maybe even a stem. The usual fiscal limitations are slowing everything down :(

I have been thinking about tyres and have not found anything I like more than the Haros, but I am a way off ordering them so something else might crop up.

Can anyone recommend a cheap crank puller? I have got to get the crank off for the SS conversion...


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 3:42 pm 
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Location: Montpellier, France
Looking good there Simon - unless a crank puller is something you want for other jobs the quickest and cheapest option is to take the frame to your friendly LBS and ask them to remove it for you. A couple of quid beer money is a nice gesture from you if they're good about it, otherwise they shouldn't charge you for doing something like that. When I worked in a bike shop we always did jobs like that for free. Chances were you'd gain a customer and they'd come back and buy stuff.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 5:17 pm 
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Hi Rich

Hope you are keeping well.

Thanks for the advice, I have a good shop up the road, perhaps I should take advantage of it!

Hope the Singer is coming along, looking forward to that one, I know you have a few others lined up first...


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2012 8:51 am 
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Location: Saaa'fend, Essex
Build is starting to look good......looks like the Marin addiction is spreading in Saaa'fend ;)

I've got a crank puller if you get stuck for one........ :)


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2012 12:53 pm 
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Thanks for the comments sherlylock, I have seeen your work on here and am very impressed with your attention to detail, I almost feel guilty using incorrect components for this build :oops:

I got a crank puller from a friend, and have removed the crank. One of the ring bolts is stuck so now have a new problem to get over..

Also got another issue, something isn't right with the headset, when tightened it pretty much locks up. The only thing I can see is that there is only one split ring, one the lower bearings, and nothing for the top. Should there be the same split ring for the top bearings? Also, should I have a washer between the two top nuts? Sorry, I have forgottten their proper name!

I will hopefully have some more parts for this next week, I am mad keen to get it on the road!

I also need a chain whip to try and remove the cassette, it 's not budging!


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2012 1:30 pm 
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Not sure about the split rings but pretty certain you should have a washer between the two nuts on the top - the lower of the two (on the top) adjusts the headset so that it's tight enough to provide a solid front end with no play, and the top one, when tightened, should just keep it all in place.

(Thread highjack in reply to your earlier question: the Singer didn't move while I was at home last time - the decals and front derailleur shim for the Urago have arrived so I'm almost done with that, and meanwhile I found an affordable Colnago Super and have an Athena groupset on the way to put on it... Where will it end?! At this rate I'll be leaving the Singer to my 2-year old daughter in my will with some advice on how to rebuild it... :roll: )


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