Retrobike Forum Index

It is currently Sat Dec 10, 2016 6:03 am

* Login   * Register * Search  * FAQ



Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 35 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4  Next
Author Message
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 1:57 pm 
Posh Mark
Posh Mark
User avatar

Joined: Wed Apr 18, 2007 2:49 pm
Posts: 5982
Location: As far from the city as you can be ....
Do you have a pic of the clearance at the back?

I squeezed a 29er wheel running a 35mm tyre with clearance into my 99 Caldera but struggle with a 2.0 26'' wheel :?

Image


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 6:07 pm 
Retro Guru
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jul 30, 2008 4:00 pm
Posts: 1373
Location: Seattle,WA
I will post picks later.

It rides fine and does not feel much different then when I have 26" wheels on.
The biggest problem I have is the clearance with the brakes and braking power.
I just picked up a 26" Chris king Wheelset that I think I will use instead on it as it just feels right for that frame.
If I did not have my new 29er on the way I would keep the 650b's on there.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 11:37 pm 
retrobike rider
retrobike rider

Joined: Sun Sep 23, 2007 11:22 pm
Posts: 7306
Location: Hove
GearlessinSeattle wrote:
The biggest problem I have is the clearance with the brakes and braking power.

I was going to ask you about brake power with the pads so far from the pivot. If you could get the bosses moved, it would make a nice 650b bike. I would be a bit concerned about weakening the tubes with repeated heating, although I guess if they're only brazed it's nothing like as bad as repeated welding?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 11:49 pm 
Retro Guru
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jul 30, 2008 4:00 pm
Posts: 1373
Location: Seattle,WA
Breaking power is not bad, but with the pads as high up on the brake arms it does not give you as much modulation.
Still not sure what to do.
I can get the brake studs moved for $100 and the whole thing painted for $150. That would mean I would have $300 into the frame and fork so not bad for a Teesdale built 650B frame set.:)


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2012 7:06 pm 
Retro Guru
User avatar

Joined: Tue Sep 23, 2008 1:01 pm
Posts: 397
Nice and clean. You should lose the front canti hanger and replace the problem-solver with a kona-style seat tube cable stop though.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2012 7:34 pm 
Retro Guru
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jul 30, 2008 4:00 pm
Posts: 1373
Location: Seattle,WA
thecannibal wrote:
Nice and clean. You should lose the front canti hanger and replace the problem-solver with a kona-style seat tube cable stop though.

I have 2 Kona Dog Collars but both are made for Canti's not V's.
The front canti hanger is gone already. Realized it was still on after I took the photos. :oops:


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2012 8:17 pm 
retrobike rider
retrobike rider

Joined: Sun Sep 23, 2007 11:22 pm
Posts: 7306
Location: Hove
GearlessinSeattle wrote:
thecannibal wrote:
Nice and clean. You should lose the front canti hanger and replace the problem-solver with a kona-style seat tube cable stop though.

I have 2 Kona Dog Collars but both are made for Canti's not V's.

The dog collar will work as a cable stop for V-brakes with a large-size frame. It is still better if you can get hold of some Nokon outer cable, but standard outer is flexible enough not to overpower the brake's drive-side tension spring provided you have a long enough run - which with the small sizes, you do not have, so for them Nokon is essential.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2012 9:53 pm 
Retro Guru
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jul 30, 2008 4:00 pm
Posts: 1373
Location: Seattle,WA
The 2 problems I had:
1.Yes, the cable length from stop to top of Paul router was too short so had the torquing problem
2.The rear hole on both Dog collars is too small for the cable housing so it would not set up properly


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2012 10:00 pm 
Retro Guru
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jul 30, 2008 4:00 pm
Posts: 1373
Location: Seattle,WA
I had to do the same with cable routing on my other hot seen here:
http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewto ... hlight=hot


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 1:24 am 
retrobike rider
retrobike rider

Joined: Sun Sep 23, 2007 11:22 pm
Posts: 7306
Location: Hove
OK, the size 19 is slightly more marginal than the 20. If you used Nokon, you would have no problem though. Please excuse my polluting your hot thread with an image of my humble scrapheap rescue, but I think it does show that Nokon is so flexible that this arrangement works perfectly, even on such a short run as on the size 16.

I have heard people say they have drilled the dog collar a couple of mm so that the ferrule fits inside, but I haven't bothered and it works so I don't think it necessary. I've heard other people suggest using a plastic ferrule as the dog collar is soft alloy and a metal ferrule will wear it away after n years, but I haven't and I don't see any sign of wear atm.


Attachments:
1994 Kona Explosif size 16 rear brake cable route w Nokon.jpg
1994 Kona Explosif size 16 rear brake cable route w Nokon.jpg [ 117.18 KiB | Viewed 1279 times ]
Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 35 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4  Next

All times are UTC [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Google Adsense [Bot] and 26 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  

About Us

Follow Retrobike

Other cool stuff

All content © 2005-2015 Retrobike unless otherwise stated.
Cookies Policy.
bikedeals - the best bike deals in one place
FatCOGS - Fat Chance Owner's Group

Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group