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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 4:14 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
retrobike rider / Gold Trader

Joined: Sat Oct 11, 2008 11:34 am
Posts: 3818
Location: Sussex
don't use heat :shock:

not only will you risk damaging the paint but an aluminium seatpost in an aluminium frame will expand at the same time.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 8:09 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Fri Oct 07, 2011 1:49 pm
Posts: 946
Location: Hampshire
Thanks for the comments guys.

It's putting up a fight for sure. Haven't done anything tonight apart from try to remove the post.

Tapped the top of the post to loosen it. Nothing
More oil, no joy.
A socket bar bolted to the seat with a jack handle. Spun on the top.
Stilsons on top of the post. Didn't budge, didn't want to force too much.

What to do next? Cutting it isn't an option.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 8:11 pm 
King of the DuckBoard
King of the DuckBoard

Joined: Sun Jan 28, 2007 12:30 pm
Posts: 21466
Cut and drill??


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 8:16 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Wed Dec 30, 2009 9:19 am
Posts: 461
Location: The Netherlands
Go to a proper metal hardware store or google for some very good penetrating oil (that doesn't affect the paint)
But it's better to loose the post then the frame (paint) so if it needs to go it needs to go if i were you :wink: I have removed loads of stuck seatposts and some needs to cut of and whats left in the frame needed to be removed with a special saw.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 10:01 pm 
Gold Trader
Gold Trader
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Joined: Mon Jun 02, 2008 2:44 am
Posts: 1349
Location: Denmark
Very nice klein! I love this paintjob... maby not so fancy and rare... but just really good looking out there on the single tracts (if it will ever got there considering this nice condition).

In relation to seatpost. You might want to consider removing the BB and filling up the seatpost from below to make the really thin oil (WD40 kid of stuff) penetrate from below slowly (no pun intented). This has worked for me on some frames where I have tried all the usual stuff.. heat, big-size tools, event bigger tools etc :-)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 10:09 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Fri Oct 07, 2011 1:49 pm
Posts: 946
Location: Hampshire
Thanks, this was probably my 3rd colour choice, but definitely changing my mind now.

I'm already going in from the bottom of the post through the bottle cage holes with oil.

I like the idea of removing the BB as this should offer a larger opening.
How can I remove the BB as these are press fit?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 10:28 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
retrobike rider / Gold Trader

Joined: Sat Oct 11, 2008 11:34 am
Posts: 3818
Location: Sussex
If the bottom bracket shell is the same as a MC1 frame you won't be able to access the seat post once the spindle/bearings are removed :wink:


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 07, 2012 1:04 am 
Retro Guru

Joined: Fri Oct 07, 2011 1:49 pm
Posts: 946
Location: Hampshire
No update as been trying the post tonight.

So instead a couple of gratuitous close ups.

Image

Image

Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 07, 2012 11:21 am 
Retro Guru

Joined: Wed Sep 23, 2009 10:36 am
Posts: 352
Great bike - loving that paint job - congratulations!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2012 11:30 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Fri Oct 07, 2011 1:49 pm
Posts: 946
Location: Hampshire
Thanks Mikey.

Also thanks to Antstark for truing my wheel.

Another step forward a W.I. Rear hub with a Mavic 517 SUP rim laced up with DT's. Also a XT rear mech and 8 spd XT cassette.

Image


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