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PostPosted: Sun Feb 23, 2014 12:17 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Fri Oct 25, 2013 7:12 pm
Posts: 30
I have only just seen this post and have to say please God do not cut off the gear hanger etc............

I love my Axis TT and I know others on this sight love them or lust after one.

When its gone its gone and to my mind it would be sacrilege to butcher this to make a "clean" single speed.

Before I am told off for not understanding the single speed way of riding I had a Haro dedicated SS from the mid 90s.
Lovely it was too though I broke the frame due to its design and the need to have a huge amount of seat pin showing.
Though I got another I just sold it to a shorter mate so not to do the same again. I still have a early 90s steel framed
bike done up as a single speed but the cable stops & hanger are staying.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 23, 2014 6:11 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Fri Jan 21, 2011 10:42 pm
Posts: 529
Location: Helsinki, Finland
If I understood correctly the suggestion to grind off everything gear related from the frame was not a serious one.

Anyway. I have no such plans.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 7:25 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Fri Jan 21, 2011 10:42 pm
Posts: 529
Location: Helsinki, Finland
Received the splined cog, 15T.
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The machining of the cog/hub interface is just beatiful. Goes on easily but there is no movement in the cog. I turned the lockring around so that it would support the cog as much as possible. Measured chainlined is 44,0 mm dead-on.
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I removed the cranks and the bb. Then I cleaned the threads thoroughly. Paint thinner and acetone. Clean as a whistle.
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I applied this thing to the treads.
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The I cranked the bb tight with my special tool (made by the allmighty mr. Rampage). Left it to dry overnight.
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This is how it looks like.
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Feels suprisingly good! No problems with the steering. Also the bb height to me feels good too.

Front chainring is at 45 mm. That's good enough I think. The chain is 10 speed KMC. Basically it should not work very well with that Surly ring (thickness is 2,3 mm) but I didn't notice anything wrong with the combination. It's quiet.

The chain is used though and it would have been nice to use a brand new chain with those brand new chainrings but hey. Who cares.

Empty v-brake bosses need plugs and handlebar ends needs them too. Those pedals I'm going to change into something more black at some point. Those are temporary, I borrowed them from another bike because I wanted to get to ride this one. The stem also could or should be replaced with a longer one. But I'll ride the bike like this for some time and see how it feels.


Last edited by Konsta on Sun Mar 02, 2014 1:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 10:16 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Sun Nov 28, 2010 7:57 pm
Posts: 663
Location: York, UK
Very cool conversion, i like it.

I too have a WI eno hub (non-eccentric) which i'm going to run 'flip-flop' so i can alternate between fixed and free wheel. They are lovely bits of kit.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 12:19 am 
Old School Hero

Joined: Sat Aug 11, 2012 3:25 pm
Posts: 204
Location: California
super clean build.. how much does it weigh?


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 2:51 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Fri Jan 21, 2011 10:42 pm
Posts: 529
Location: Helsinki, Finland
Thanks! Total weight is little under 7,5 kg.

The current spec list is as follows

Frame: DBR Axis TT 18" (1 517 g)
Fork: Bontrager Satellite Elite (671 g)
Headset: Woodman Axis SL (87 g)
Stem: Kalloy UNO OS, 60 mm (80 g)
Handlebar: Noname carbon (133 g)
Grips: ESI Chunky (52 g)
Brake: Shimano BR-CX77 (156+6 g)
Brake pads: Shimano G03Ti
Adapter: Force IS to PM (17+6 g)
Rotor: Ashima ARO-08, 160 mm (87+6 g)
Brake cable: Jagwire Ripcord (34 g)
Brake lever: Tektro (53 g)
Bottom bracket: Hope Titanium, 68 x 103 mm (162 g)
Crank bolts: noname steel (26 g)
Cranks: Middleburn RS7, 170 mm (450 g)
Bashring: RaceFace ring butchered (94 g)
Chainring: Surly stainless steel, 36T (106 g)
Chainring bolts: Sakae steel (26 g)
Pedals: Wellgo M-21 (271 g)
Toe clips: Campagnolo alloy (29+9 g)
Straps: noname leather (54 g)
Hub skewer: noname titanium (18 g)
Cog: White Industries, 15T (40 g)
Lockring: Halo alloy (7 g)
Chain: KMC X10SL (202 g)
Front wheel: noname hub / ZTR Alpha 340 / DT Revo / Brass / Schwalbe tape (708 g)
Rear wheel: White ENO / Kinlin XR-200 / DT Revo / Brass / Schwalbe tape (884 g)
Tyres: Challenge Grifo XS, 33-622 (336+362 g)
Tubes: Schwalbe SV18 (102+103 g)
Saddle: Selle Italia Flite Titanium (1993) (211 g)
Seatpost: Thomson Elite, 27.0, 350 mm (273 g)
Seatpost binder: DKG Road Clamp (17+4 g)


Last edited by Konsta on Tue Apr 29, 2014 4:47 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 6:21 pm 
Old School Hero

Joined: Sat Aug 11, 2012 3:25 pm
Posts: 204
Location: California
man that BB is crazy light.. I have a 19" TT frame, fork, headset and BB and already it weighs about a kilogram more than the total weight for the equivalent parts you have listed


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 9:33 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2011 11:25 pm
Posts: 1979
Location: It's not easy being a dolphin.
Interesting, and it's given me some ideas. 7.3 Kg is well in road bike territory!

What is the clearance like between the BB shell and the Middleburn drive side crank? It must be close, and it would be great if you could take a picture. Actually a Middleburn UNO ring and skipping the bash ring and 5 bolts would lighten it up even more.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 12:29 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Fri Jan 21, 2011 10:42 pm
Posts: 529
Location: Helsinki, Finland
Woz, you are right! The clearance is indeed minimal.

I'll take a picture later but there is about 1 mm (!) gap between the Middleburn spider lockring and the bb shell. When I was installing the cranks I got really frightened when I saw the two surfaces approaching each other like that. But when fully tightened, the drive side crank stopped to were it is now and it's turning freely.

I must admit I really hadn't taken that into consideration. These cranks are indeed meant for a longer BB axle. But I'm glad it worked out. Have to see what happens when muck and sand and dogshit start to collect there...

For some time I did consider buying an UNO ring like you say. But I gave up on the idea mainly because they are really expensive and I also think the stainless steel ring will last longer. And the chainline/tooshortbbaxle/clearanceissues -problem combo would still exist with the UNO ring (I have understood that with the correct bb axle length the UNO will give 48 mm chainline).

The bashring will disappear at some point and the chainring bolts will change to shorter ones. For the sake of losing some grams if nothing else...

Thanks for the kind words everyone. I am aware this project was and is kind of an experimental one but I'm really glad it turned out so nice.

Did a long ride yesterday, the bike works and rides beatifully. Really soft, really light, really responsive. Love it.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 06, 2014 1:31 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Fri Jan 21, 2011 10:42 pm
Posts: 529
Location: Helsinki, Finland
Ok, here's a pic of the bb area. (Sorry for the picture quality.)
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Hard to measure but I'd say the gap is about 1 mm.

And before anyone asks: no, the rear tyre is not touching the bridge.


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