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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 12, 2011 9:11 pm 
Old School Hero
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Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2007 3:03 pm
Posts: 158
Location: Ontario
All of those frames have clear anodizing as a frame protector.

Also - Are you certain you need a 27.0 seatpost? I'm positive mine is a 30.6 or something like that. Will double check tonight for you (our time). I'd hate to see you source one out and find it's too small. 27.0 are normally found on the early 90's steel frames. I've been wrong before though.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 12, 2011 10:52 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Mon Mar 09, 2009 1:06 pm
Posts: 891
Location: T'North
bagpipes wrote:
All of those frames have clear anodizing as a frame protector.

Also - Are you certain you need a 27.0 seatpost? I'm positive mine is a 30.6 or something like that. Will double check tonight for you (our time). I'd hate to see you source one out and find it's too small. 27.0 are normally found on the early 90's steel frames. I've been wrong before though.


The clear coat reveals itself more so in the photos as you can see. Can you suggest a way forward with reviving the frame without removing the entire clear / anodised coat? I think re-coating would be excessive, but I wouldn’t rule it out.

I’ve purchased a Syncros 27.2 post today. A 27.0 is a little lose whilst a 29.8 is way to big so it's not the specified 30.4. If the Syncros is not right I’m sure I can move it on.

Mr Kawasaki – have you started to revive your frame yet?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 12, 2011 11:01 pm 
Retro Guru
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Location: T'North
RockiMtn wrote:
shame about the stem. :(


Tell me about it :roll:

I do have irons in the fire though on that front.

Just looking for the following now:

* 12 - 28 7 speed cassette HG70 or 90 new or very good
* Syncos cattleprod quill stem 1 1/8" 130mm ish
* Syncors seatpost size tbc 350mm long minimum
* Saddle - not seen anything yet, maybe a black Turbo.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 13, 2011 2:17 am 
Old School Hero
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Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2007 3:03 pm
Posts: 158
Location: Ontario
My Cirrus has a 30.4 seat post - just pulled it out to verify.

As for the anodizing, you either have to polish the frame as best you can and live with it or you have to remove it all. You'll find that as you polish it up, the peeled portions of the anodizing will show up even more.

Removing it can be done by sanding but then you're into a full polish job after that to remove the scratch marks. I went this route with mine and it came up pretty well. (was a ton of work though)

I'm sure someone here will be able to tell you other ways to remove anodizing.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 13, 2011 11:32 am 
North Wales Deputy AEC
North Wales Deputy AEC
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Joined: Sun Apr 30, 2006 12:50 am
Posts: 6218
Anyone sand blasted one of these frames?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 9:25 am 
PoTM Winner / retrobike rider
PoTM Winner / retrobike rider
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Joined: Mon Dec 13, 2010 6:58 pm
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Location: Best part of Holland
hmm, lovely e-stay...

I'd go for a black turbo indeed!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 7:02 pm 
Old School Hero
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Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2007 3:03 pm
Posts: 158
Location: Ontario
mrkawasaki wrote:
Anyone sand blasted one of these frames?


Don't sand bast it unless you intend to paint it!!!

If you do, don't use sand, you'll need walnut shells or something that won't penetrate the alum.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 29, 2011 10:16 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Mon Mar 09, 2009 1:06 pm
Posts: 891
Location: T'North
Hello again.

I’ve been busy collecting and a few more period parts are on route. Still searching for that pesky seat post! 27.0mm what a nightmare!

In the mean time, I would like your kind advice / experience on re-painting the aluminium Syncros stem and the Syncros steel fork legs with the bonded dropouts.

1.) Can I acid dip both components or will the ruin the aluminium surface and deteriorate the bond of the dropouts?

2.) Once the paint is removed, should I take them back and give the surfaces a rub down with wet ‘n’ dry to provide a perfact finish?

3.) What type of primer / paint should be used to get a tough finish like the original?

Regards, Mossy.


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 Post subject: Serial # vs Year
PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2011 6:54 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 17, 2011 10:05 pm
Posts: 4
Hello
New to this forum and thought I would toss in my 2 cents worth.
I have 2 Cirrus frames and one Experience Frame and wanted to know that year they where. I emailed RC the serial # and a fellow named Peter got back to me . He said that the third digit in the serial number is the year of manufacture .
So YA0 is 1990
YA1 is 1991
YA2 is 1992


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 Post subject: Re: Serial # vs Year
PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2011 9:46 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Mon Mar 09, 2009 1:06 pm
Posts: 891
Location: T'North
cirrus1 wrote:
Hello
New to this forum and thought I would toss in my 2 cents worth.
I have 2 Cirrus frames and one Experience Frame and wanted to know that year they where. I emailed RC the serial # and a fellow named Peter got back to me . He said that the third digit in the serial number is the year of manufacture .
So YA0 is 1990
YA1 is 1991
YA2 is 1992


Hello and a warm welcome to Retrobike.

For a first post you've really thrown the cat amongst the pigeon. Nothing like a good old debate about dating frames from serial numbers. :D

If my Cirrus is a 1990 that would explain the 27.0 seat post. However, there are notable similarities with the ‘91 frame not seen on the '90 frame.

As Fluffychicken explains, things were subject to change and materials used up at the crossover point.

Hopefully have some updates on Sunday once I've finished polishing a few bits and unwrapped some NOS goodness! :wink:


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