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PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 1:58 pm 
B.o.T.M. Winner / Feature Bike
B.o.T.M. Winner / Feature Bike
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Joined: Tue Dec 13, 2005 3:26 pm
Posts: 6191
Location: Tilting at windmills and shouting at the rain.
Maybe you could make a C26 copy by just leaving those insulating pipes on the down, seat and top tube! At a distance it may work and it would save you thousands of £!


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 2:15 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Tue Feb 08, 2011 4:10 pm
Posts: 988
Its going to be a JT Yeti FRO, that was the model before the C-26


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 2:30 pm 
BoTY Winner
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Joined: Tue Apr 04, 2006 6:39 pm
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Location: Durango CO, USA
The differences between that frame and a real FRO would throw me off from a JT replica

Tange vs. Patco
Rivet vs. welded cable guides
Pinch bolt seattube vs. BMX clamp


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 21, 2011 1:09 am 
Retro Guru

Joined: Tue Feb 08, 2011 4:10 pm
Posts: 988
ameybrook wrote:
The differences between that frame and a real FRO would throw me off from a JT replica

Tange vs. Patco
Rivet vs. welded cable guides
Pinch bolt seattube vs. BMX clamp


Both FRO and Pro FRO are "real" only the pro FRO is a faster and lighter frame making it a better FRO. and the 4130 frames rust like hell. I would only considder buying a FRO if it was NOS and place it on the wall above the fireplace ;-)


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 21, 2011 1:21 am 
BoTY Winner
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Location: Durango CO, USA
yeti-man wrote:

Both FRO and Pro FRO are "real" only the pro FRO is a faster and lighter frame making it a better FRO.


Arguably. But its not right. Your frame is likely suspension corrected and if from the sounds of it you're going to run a right fork. I doubt it's going to matter much in handling... but its not right. At least four years too new for what you're attempting.

I can understand the Pro FRO restomod project, but my motto is anything worth doing (time, money) is worth doing right, like Kevin's JT C-26. But I can't understand getting into a project when you've got it wrong from the start.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 21, 2011 7:33 am 
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Joined: Tue Feb 08, 2011 4:10 pm
Posts: 988
ameybrook wrote:
yeti-man wrote:

Both FRO and Pro FRO are "real" only the pro FRO is a faster and lighter frame making it a better FRO.


Arguably. But its not right. Your frame is likely suspension corrected and if from the sounds of it you're going to run a right fork. I doubt it's going to matter much in handling... but its not right. At least four years too new for what you're attempting.

I can understand the Pro FRO restomod project, but my motto is anything worth doing (time, money) is worth doing right, like Kevin's JT C-26. But I can't understand getting into a project when you've got it wrong from the start.


Mike, u are off track. Where am I wrong from the start? This frame is the same frame as the disc version frame and none of them are suspension adjusted.

The susp adjusted frames came later- 1995/96 ->

It's a well known fact that the Pro FRO has better angles, better steel an better handling than the FRO.

:-)


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 21, 2011 12:41 pm 
BoTY Winner
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Location: Durango CO, USA
I might have misread this thread from the start... but you're going to make a Tomac replica from it? If so, the frame is too new.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 21, 2011 2:05 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 08, 2011 4:10 pm
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ameybrook wrote:
I might have misread this thread from the start... but you're going to make a Tomac replica from it? If so, the frame is too new.


;-) yes the JT FRO model even though it's a pro. Personally I dont like the old FRO due to the angles, weight and the rust issues.

It will be a nice bike and I will not disgrace the Yeti name hehe

/T-S


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 21, 2011 10:39 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Sun Nov 06, 2005 1:13 am
Posts: 306
If you prep 4130 frame with rust preventer you wont see so much rust, you can pick up a can of rust preventer at your local Clasohlson, cost not so much maybe 3 euro, do it.

Some build tips for you:

1#
How about upgrading the frame with 2011 Yeti decals, drop-bars, D2 battery shifting and a Manitou 1 fork, that would look totally awesome.

2#
6" freeride fork, fenders (front and rear), drop-bar, magura drop-bar brakes, gazzaloddi on the front, 1.9" Smoke on the rear, repaint in black or red, drill and remove riveted cable holders, run full lenght cable hosing instead

:lol:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 18, 2012 3:24 pm 
PoTM Winner / retrobike rider
PoTM Winner / retrobike rider
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Joined: Mon Dec 13, 2010 6:58 pm
Posts: 2103
Location: Best part of Holland
any updates on this?


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