1989 RekTek - Canadian Content

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OK I've procrastinated long enough. If I don't start this thread then the bike might just sit in my garage forever. If I go public then people will bug me every once and awhile to complete the project... or at least post updates.

For those not familiar with RekTek i've started an "all things RekTek" thread here.

http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=142614

Without too much fanfare here's the bike as it appeared shortly after I first bought it.

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It briefly went through a purple 3DV stage in the early 90's. If I ever dig up some pictures from then I'll be sure to post them.

It then went through a rather long hibernation period after I fell in love with my Merlin.... which adopted all the purple 3DV parts... but that is for another thread.

It then was pressed into service as a daily commuter bike for my wife. She lowered the seatpost so often that the poor ole Syncros seatpost is looking pretty ragged. I'll post some pictures later.

This thread is about restoring this RekTek frame to a early 90's Syncros/Shimano be-decked glory.

This is my inspiration:

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PARTS LIST - UPDATED 2012-02-27

Frame: RekTek
Year: 1989
Size: 19" according to Chris DeKerf
Fork: Syncros SVI Composite

Headset: Chris King Sotto Voce
Stem: Syncros Cattleprod 1"
Handlebar: Syncros Gorilla Shotgun Bar
Grips: Grab-On II
Barends: Syncros Steerhorns

Front Brakes: McMahon Linear Decelerators
Rear Brakes: McMahon Scissor U-Brakes
Brake Pads: Kool Stop
Brake Cables: JagWire Ripcord
Cantilever cable hangers: some cool little job that came with the decelerators
Brake Levers: Diacompe SS-5

Shifters: Shimano XT 7spd thumbies
Front Derailleur: Shimano M736 top pull
Rear Derailleur: Shimano M735 shortcage
Derailleur Cables: JagWire Ripcord
Cassette: Shimano HG90 7spd 11-28
Chain: SRAM PC-890
Cranks: Syncros Revolutions Compact
Crank Bolts: looking for some
Chainrings: Syncros
Chainring bolts:
Bottom Bracket: Shimano UN-blahblahblah (looking fro older Syncros BB ~117mm)
Pedals: Shimano XT flats (M735, M731 of some variety)

Hub Skewers: 1st generation Mavic Crossmax
Rims: 1st generation Mavic Crossmax
Hubs: 1st generation Mavic Crossmax
Nipples: 1st generation Mavic Crossmax
Spokes: 1st generation Mavic Crossmax
Tyres: Ritchey Z-Max Pro Evolution 2.1" (new reissued gum walls from Jeff at mombat)
Tubes: whatever I can find that doesn't have more than 7 patches

Saddle: Selle Italia Turbo
Seatpost: Syncros 27.0 330mm Propost (old style)
Seatpost Binder: Odyssey Ti

Weight: ? seems pretty heavy compared to my Merlin, but it looks wicked pissa.

This is the frame:
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The first step will be to get it painted. Now since this frame was welded up by Chris DeKerf when he worked at Rocky Mountain back in the late 80's I thought it only fitting to send it back to Chris to have the dents filled along with a quality respray. I am thinking about having the derailleur cable guides moved from the underside of the downtube to the toptube. Chris can do these modifications, but I don't want to commit to this until I can source a Shimano XT M736 top pull derailleur.

So that's where it stands now. I wouldn't hold your breath for any updates, but at least I've begun the 12 step program and admitted I have a problem. Now you fellow junkies gotta help me complete this project.

Cheers.
 
That is a LOVELY frame.

I'll hassle you every so often for an update :LOL:

Going black with the repaint?
 
RockiMtn, may still have one as it's not got sold in his advert from a while back yet. (m736 28.6 )

and my excuse to make sure I see this build :)
 
Agreed

That thing is beautiful!

This is surely going to be a great build

Is there a dent in the down tube near the BB shell? Or is that just an illusion?
 
FluffyChicken":1haluzv0 said:
RockiMtn, may still have one as it's not got sold in his advert from a while back yet. (m736 28.6 )

Thank you very much. I guess I could have figured that out if I used the ole search button myself. :oops: I've sent a PM to RockyMtn. Hopefully he still has it. There is a NOS one on eBay, but it's a wee bit expensive and in the larger clamp size so would require a shim.

hydorah":1haluzv0 said:
Is there a dent in the down tube near the BB shell? Or is that just an illusion?

That's just a smudge of paint from something the frame bumped against - not a dent. There is a very small dent a bit higher up on the downtube from a big rock being thrown up during a gnarly downhill, but overall the frame is in very fine condition given it's age. The rust in the BB shell seems very superficial. I need to talk to DeKerf to see if he has some sort of rust inhibiting treatment he can apply while prepping the frame or while painting it.

The original paint is a metallic black. I guess there's nothing wrong with that color, but I want to change it up a wee bit since this will probably be the one and only time I do this and all the black of the frame and the Syncros bits might be overwhelming. I'm leaning towards

Pearl White, Slate, Metallic Charcoal Gray, Pewter Gray, or Olive Green.
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Although Chris can do pretty much any color you can imagine so I'll think on it for a week or so.
 
RockiMtn, may still have one as it's not got sold in his advert from a while back yet. (m736 28.6 )
and has now been POSTED! ;)

registering here to see another Canadian breed project. the things you learn. before this, the only Canadian brand i new was Rocky Mountain. :roll:

ahem… i also have that elusive 1" fork you're seeking. but i think i'll need some serious coercing, as i'm a collection horder and don't like to give things up. :oops:

Bottom Bracket: Syncros Ti (I have a 73mm, but need a 68mm)

AFAIK Syncros BB are used for both 73/68 shells.
 
RockiMtn":1dcb9ykb said:
ahem… i also have that elusive 1" fork you're seeking. but i think i'll need some serious coercing, as i'm a collection horder and don't like to give things up. :oops:

Yes, I know what you mean. I have a few choice items squirreled away too. How about you post a nice picture of your Syncros fork so I can make a life size cardboard cutout. :D


RockiMtn":1dcb9ykb said:
AFAIK Syncros BB are used for both 73/68 shells.

But it seems there will be a few mm of threads sticking out past the lock rings. Is that normal? It seems like if there was a shorter inner plastic sleeve then you could screw the cups in until the lock rings were flush the BB shell.
 
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