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PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2011 10:09 pm 
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classen wrote:
Does your stem have the original powder coat and decals? Is that glossy black or matte?


It's been repainted in a matt black before I got it and the decals are starting to peel in places. The paint's not great and the pic makes it look a lot better than it is.
Was thinking of getting it powder coated in gloss black as I've got another set of decals via the legend that is Gil M.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2011 10:16 pm 
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supergoose wrote:
It's been repainted in a matt black before I got it and the decals are starting to peel in places. The paint's not great and the pic makes it look a lot better than it is.
Was thinking of getting it powder coated in gloss black as I've got another set of decals via the legend that is Gil M.


Ahh that's interesting. Are Gil M's decals on a glossy vinyl? Do you think they would contrast too much with a matte powder coat? Are his decals cut around each letter or is the entire "syncros" logo on a single clear background? If you decide to get it re painted and apply the Gil M decals I would love to see the results.

I've just subscribed to your 1989/90 Orange Clockwork thread so I can stay informed. :)


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2011 10:33 pm 
retrobike rider
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Manitou916 a member on here specifically makes syncros ones from what I've seen
http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/profil ... file&u=911

his ebay auction for ideas
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/manitou916/m. ... 4340.l2562


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 29, 2011 5:54 pm 
PoTM Winner / retrobike rider
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very cool build!! hope you can get that Syncros fork one day :D

I've the Cattleprod both in shiny and matt black (the matt one is a NO one) I've always wondered when Syncros started with the matt finishing. The early ones are all shiny, aren't they?


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2011 8:46 pm 
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classen wrote:
Ahh that's interesting. Are Gil M's decals on a glossy vinyl? Do you think they would contrast too much with a matte powder coat? Are his decals cut around each letter or is the entire "syncros" logo on a single clear background? If you decide to get it re painted and apply the Gil M decals I would love to see the results.


Just had a look and the 'syncros' decals are individual letters. The 'Hammer n Cycle' circular logos seem to be on a slightly glossy backing which look the same as the original decals that I've seen on other stems.
Gil M is very helpful if you need advice.

I'll post pics of my stem once I get round to getting it powder coated. 8)


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 12:22 am 
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OK, I bit the bullet and have decided to fix my rusty revs.
They were in pretty good exterior shape and probably would have sufficed for this build, but the rattling rust inside the crank arms was beginning to bother me, and it seems that this "build" is becoming a full on restoration instead. I do plan on riding this bike eventually and the constant sound of a baby rattle coming from my cranks would have driven me insane (... I mean more insane than I am already ;) ), so I've decided to perform trepanation on my cranks.


Nooooooooooo. don't do it. :shock: :shock: :shock:
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yikes.
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Holy rust batman. :?
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Now to weld it up.

stary tuned


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 12:39 am 
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I have to say that is lot of rust seeing as those are thin wall steel :shock:


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 12:40 am 
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:shock: geez, if i knew you were planning on doing that, I would have told you to drill through the square taper threading into the arm. not an easy task, but probably less chance of weakening the arm. also not even visible when crank bolt/cover is in place.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 1:22 am 
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I'm not too worried.
I weighed the rust that came out of both arms and it totaled 703mg. The cranks themselves weigh 383g. So the percent of the cranks mass that is now missing as a result of rust is approximately 0.703/383 * 100 = 0.18%

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I'm not sweating it. I will put a bit of rust converter inside the cranks and let it sit a few days. Then my friend, who is an excellent welder, is going to just touch those holes to fill them in. I will then sand them down so they'll be smoother than a baby's bottom and the powdercoater guy will do his magic.

If someone with knowledge and access to CAD software to run some finite element analysis on these cranks to see if the 3mm hole weakens the crank I think we would all be interested in the answer. I'm not going to be hammering these too hard so I'll take my chances. :)


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 1:22 am 
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Also do some searching around the site via the "search" up above. Lots of things have been worked out by people before. For example The Syncro crank silencing was done by pinguin with the drill through the taper trick.
(Seem to remember that the material inside is from the welding process??)


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