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PostPosted: Thu Mar 31, 2011 10:14 am 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Tue Feb 17, 2009 1:16 pm
Posts: 4337
Super skinny, very nice.

Stupid question alert, are you meant to keep the cables from crossing over on the down-tube? BITD mine did cross and with my "new" CC 96 which was the last one to route that way (97 had two on the top tube) I've replicated that.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 31, 2011 12:20 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Location: Getting fitter, I will beat the Surrey Hills....
al-onestare wrote:
Stupid question alert, are you meant to keep the cables from crossing over on the down-tube? BITD mine did cross and with my "new" CC 96 which was the last one to route that way (97 had two on the top tube) I've replicated that.


Well, when I rebuilt this one, the cables didn't cross over as the shifters are on the same sides to follow the cable guides under the bottom bracket shell without crossing. I dont see how, if a bike does have crossed wire, it would be a problem though. The cable routing will vary between the manufacturers.

I hope that makes sense!!?!!

I shall await to be told that I am wrong :oops: :lol:


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 31, 2011 12:55 pm 
retrobike rider
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Joined: Sun Sep 23, 2007 11:22 pm
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Location: Hove
That's a very nice restoration. I'm sure you'll get used to the authentic saddle. I find mine perfectly comfortable. And you never know what awful revenge the Gods of the Fire Mountain might wreak on you if you were to change it! I expect they've already got their eye on your red bits. :shock:

I cross my cables and I haven't found that this wears the paint on the down tube. The alternative routing without a cross generally results in wearing the paint off the head tube, where it is far more visible. However you seem to have avoided that by using very long cable outers - with shorter cables and using the stop on the same side as the shifter, there is a lot of cable rub on the head tube.

On 1997 Konas, only the rear mech cable went down the down tube, and Kona chose to place the cable stop on the left. i.e. they made the cable cross the down tube to go through the guide channel on the right. However this avoids damage to the head tube, because the curvature of the cable outer naturally keeps it away from the frame, which is presumably why they did it.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 31, 2011 3:01 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Location: Getting fitter, I will beat the Surrey Hills....
Thanks for your comments Anthony. I shall persevere with the original saddle for a while before I make a final decision then. I wouldn't want to anger the Gods now, especially if they are after my 'red bits'! :shock: :twisted:

Now I think back, when I cut the original cables (which were absolutely mullered!), they may well have been crossed. I dare say that it makes any difference in performance, other than the cable rub on the headtube like you mentioned. BITD I used to have these little clear stickers/patches that you stuck on the frame just under the cables to prevent said cable rub. Does anyone know if they are still available?


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 31, 2011 7:17 pm 
Gold Trader
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Joined: Mon Jun 15, 2009 6:16 pm
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Location: Woking
Nice one Dan, top build. Will have to go out for a ride soon! Keep the original saddle too!


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 31, 2011 8:28 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Location: Getting fitter, I will beat the Surrey Hills....
Haha! Cheers Stu! When are you going to put your builds up?!


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 31, 2011 8:42 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Anthony wrote:
That's a very nice restoration. I'm sure you'll get used to the authentic saddle. I find mine perfectly comfortable. And you never know what awful revenge the Gods of the Fire Mountain might wreak on you if you were to change it! I expect they've already got their eye on your red bits. :shock:

I cross my cables and I haven't found that this wears the paint on the down tube. The alternative routing without a cross generally results in wearing the paint off the head tube, where it is far more visible. However you seem to have avoided that by using very long cable outers - with shorter cables and using the stop on the same side as the shifter, there is a lot of cable rub on the head tube.

On 1997 Konas, only the rear mech cable went down the down tube, and Kona chose to place the cable stop on the left. i.e. they made the cable cross the down tube to go through the guide channel on the right. However this avoids damage to the head tube, because the curvature of the cable outer naturally keeps it away from the frame, which is presumably why they did it.


Nice one, thanks Anthony.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 11:34 am 
Old School Hero
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Joined: Mon Nov 10, 2008 12:34 pm
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Location: Marin (Gallaecia)
Nice work! . As a Kona fan i'm always glad to see this projects.

I only would suggest two changes, a pair of pedals more similar to shimano xt and black grips. But it's only my look preference.

Enjoy this bike :wink:


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 1:35 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Kike_Marin wrote:
Nice work! . As a Kona fan i'm always glad to see this projects.

I only would suggest two changes, a pair of pedals more similar to shimano xt and black grips. But it's only my look preference.

Enjoy this bike :wink:


Glad you approve, thanks! Mind you, it's interesting you left the brake blocks from your list of personal preference changes, seeing as you would have gone with black grips :? There is black on the end of the grips...! :lol:


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 18, 2012 9:24 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Thu Aug 11, 2011 9:05 am
Posts: 257
Location: Barcelona
Whatleymeister wrote:
So, the bike is now stripped. It was during this time that I discovered the lower headset race was buggered and I spent a solid 5 minutes scrabbling around trying to locate the bearings that had all done a runner! I later replaced the bearings with some loose 1/4 inch ones from Nirvana Cycles in Westcott, Surrey, (top LBS, well recommended) and replaced the upper race anyway.

Image

I then removed the cassette, freehub and axle from the rear wheel ready for cleaning too. Pleasingly, the cones and bearings were all in pretty good condition.

Image

Image

With the bike now stripped, Operation Clean all the bits can begin. This bike needed it. Badly.

Image

In the picture above I had already cleaned the cassette. This was just dunked and left in Fenwicks FS1 degreaser for a good 10 minutes. Anyone needing a good cleaner - I cannot recommend it enough. Just make it really weak if you want to clean paintwork and don't leave it on the paint for long!


wow! For a few seconds I though you were going to cook a Lava Dome :-)


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