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 Post subject: links
PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 9:49 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Fri Apr 03, 2009 2:56 pm
Posts: 324
Try these

p://retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php ... c&start=15

http://www.retrobike.net/forum/viewtopi ... 130fdb751c


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 Post subject: ta
PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 10:14 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Thu Oct 15, 2009 8:21 pm
Posts: 67
Location: surrey
Thanx
first link doesnt work and yep that the bike Im on about
anyone know where it is
the only thing Im sure of is the brake levers being avids ultimate I have a set exactly the same, but Id like more info please
he was amazing


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2011 12:05 am 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
retrobike rider / Gold Trader

Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2007 9:05 pm
Posts: 9245
The location of the original FSR is known and has been discussed on RetroBike if you do a search.


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 Post subject: Re: cranks
PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2011 12:35 am 
B.o.T.M. Winner / Feature Bike
B.o.T.M. Winner / Feature Bike
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Joined: Tue Dec 13, 2005 3:26 pm
Posts: 6191
Location: Tilting at windmills and shouting at the rain.
jjwood wrote:
I have seen the back arms and silver spider on the bay before but i have deleted my watch list.... with the rsr 2 hole spider.
Heres a pic though of early ones.


Sadly they aren't early ones, they are some of the last dog bones made. Those are 94bcd cranks rather than 110bcd which your bike would use. Here's a pair of mine that are the same:

Image

And here they are next to 110bcd ones:

Image

On the plus side, cooks cranks are getting cheaper and cheaper these days:

http://cgi.ebay.com/NOS-Cook-Bros-crank ... 0554171644

:cry:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2011 10:29 am 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
retrobike rider / Gold Trader

Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2007 9:05 pm
Posts: 9245
Well, thats the ugly disc mount gone. Now into the blast cabinet.

Now you see it....
Image

......Now you don't
Image


Last edited by Dr S on Wed Feb 02, 2011 11:07 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: cranks
PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2011 10:45 am 
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider
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Joined: Sun Apr 02, 2006 1:03 pm
Posts: 11796
Location: Returning
jjwood wrote:
I have seen the back arms and silver spider on the bay before but i have deleted my watch list.... with the rsr 2 hole spider.

Heres a pic though of early ones.


i think i have a pair of these in the shed 110 tho
black/black
will check when i get home


ahhh , silver spider ,2 hole 110bcd but black arms tho


Last edited by mikee on Thu Feb 03, 2011 1:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2011 10:53 am 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Joined: Mon Jun 22, 2009 11:09 am
Posts: 9399
Location: Devon
Did you remove the disc tab yourself? Looks like a very tidy job you have done if so.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2011 2:16 pm 
B.o.T.M. Winner / Feature Bike
B.o.T.M. Winner / Feature Bike
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Joined: Tue Dec 13, 2005 3:26 pm
Posts: 6191
Location: Tilting at windmills and shouting at the rain.
Dr S wrote:
Well, thats the ugly disc mount gone. Now into the blast cabinet.



This is really a win-win, DrS gets to do his thang on a bike he appriciates and jjwoods gets a cool frame at the end!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2011 2:45 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
retrobike rider / Gold Trader

Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2007 9:05 pm
Posts: 9245
Yeah, really pleased that JJ entrusted me to sort this frame out. Huge thanks from me. 8)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2011 5:38 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
retrobike rider / Gold Trader

Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2007 9:05 pm
Posts: 9245
So, todays progress. Disc tab and brace removed and seat tube repaired. When the frame arrived last night i noticed the tell tale blisters around the bottom of the tube straight away. Paint removal showed 3 holes of around 2mm diameter and a crack on the drive side between two holes. I set about cleaning as much rust out of the tube by gently tapping the tube with a soft wood flat, before fitting a long wire brush probe down the tube fitted to a die grinder. Quite a bit of rust came out but not as much as i have seen before.
The repair was going to be tricky as it was so close to the weld. First off i opened up the holes with a 4mm drill bit and checked that i had exposed good clean metal. One hole had to go larger- not much but just enough to get clean edges. I then made up 3 plugs, carefully filed to size and shape which went into the holes. These were then carefully tig welded into place with short bursts to avoid overheating the thin tube. A little cleaning up with files and paper was all that was needed to complete the repairs. There are a few small dimples around the welds which i expect the powder to cover without resorting to having to silver solder- thus adding more heat stress to the frame.

Image

I really didn't want to put a new tube in as i wanted to keep as much of the frame original as possible. The plugging technique is something i use on old car chassis often enough and has proved to be well up to the job. My Yo was also repaired the same way over 9 months ago and is still as good as the day it was done.
The frame needs dipping in acid now to get rid of the paint and all the remaining rust before a quick session in the blast cabinet. Hopefully it should be going for powdercoat on friday.


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